Door Locks and Electrics
Discussion
Hi All,
My car has been laid up for 3 months due to it having an immobilisor issue.
This and the alarm have now been disconnected and the car starts/drives fine, only issue is that the doors wont unlock/open when i put the key into the lock (Early 94 so doesnt open from the mirrors).
The electrics are a bit of a dogs dinner full stop but the car is driving/running well.
Are the locks/latches faulty or will they only work if the electrics are connected???
Driving me mad.
My car has been laid up for 3 months due to it having an immobilisor issue.
This and the alarm have now been disconnected and the car starts/drives fine, only issue is that the doors wont unlock/open when i put the key into the lock (Early 94 so doesnt open from the mirrors).
The electrics are a bit of a dogs dinner full stop but the car is driving/running well.
Are the locks/latches faulty or will they only work if the electrics are connected???
Driving me mad.
Mine had a meta alarm and the central locking module was controlled from it. Was next to the alarm and looked like this..
https://ebay.us/m/cKUnHy
I'm guessing that's your problem if it's only happened since you removed the alarm, if the cars in lock mode then the buttons won't work so maybe send 12v to it and then the buttons will unlock. You can get cheap universal central locking kits off of eBay.
https://ebay.us/m/cKUnHy
I'm guessing that's your problem if it's only happened since you removed the alarm, if the cars in lock mode then the buttons won't work so maybe send 12v to it and then the buttons will unlock. You can get cheap universal central locking kits off of eBay.
s p a c e m a n said:
Mine had a meta alarm and the central locking module was controlled from it. Was next to the alarm and looked like this..
https://ebay.us/m/cKUnHy
I'm guessing that's your problem if it's only happened since you removed the alarm, if the cars in lock mode then the buttons won't work so maybe send 12v to it and then the buttons will unlock. You can get cheap universal central locking kits off of eBay.
Sounds exactly like what’s happened..https://ebay.us/m/cKUnHy
I'm guessing that's your problem if it's only happened since you removed the alarm, if the cars in lock mode then the buttons won't work so maybe send 12v to it and then the buttons will unlock. You can get cheap universal central locking kits off of eBay.
How would I send 12v to it???
The bas&£rd thing has blown its 100amp fuse tonight from the battery to starter..
s p a c e m a n said:
I'm trying to remember how the latches work. The interior knob still works yeah, so you just need to 'activate' the buttons? Can you not pull the carpet back behind the seats and stick the latches into unlocked position?
Boom… Well done that man… Thanks for taking the time…Just need to work out why it’s blowing the 100amp fuse now??
If your battery is in the boot someone has moved it because it's originally in the passenger footwell, so I'd have a good look at the cable and routing. There is probably still a live running from the fuse board, over the top of the bell housing and down to the starter motor, that's prone to problems because of the heat.
If the fuse is only blowing when you either turn the ignition on or try to crank it then it's more likely something on the ignition circuit rather than the main cable otherwise it would just blow the fuse instantly.
I don't think there's much that will blow the main fuse because everything else is fused on its own circuit.
If the fuse is only blowing when you either turn the ignition on or try to crank it then it's more likely something on the ignition circuit rather than the main cable otherwise it would just blow the fuse instantly.
I don't think there's much that will blow the main fuse because everything else is fused on its own circuit.
To be honest I haven't ever had a problem with mine so I'm not too clued up on what blows that fuse but if you've had new ignition fitted I would start with looking at whatever was involved with that.
Problem is you're probably going to be going through a lot of fuses before you figure it out if it's not an obvious fault, you could change it for a breaker whilst fault finding..
https://amzn.eu/d/7MZd8H9
My simple mind says to get a multimeter, stick it to ohms, put one end on the battery earth and then start poking around on big things that are supposed to be live and see if you get a circuit. Back of the ignition switch, starter motor, alternator. Or unplug them one at a time and see if the fuse blows.
You definitely need someone more intelligent than me for advice
Problem is you're probably going to be going through a lot of fuses before you figure it out if it's not an obvious fault, you could change it for a breaker whilst fault finding..
https://amzn.eu/d/7MZd8H9
My simple mind says to get a multimeter, stick it to ohms, put one end on the battery earth and then start poking around on big things that are supposed to be live and see if you get a circuit. Back of the ignition switch, starter motor, alternator. Or unplug them one at a time and see if the fuse blows.
You definitely need someone more intelligent than me for advice

s p a c e m a n said:
T
My simple mind says to get a multimeter, stick it to ohms, put one end on the battery earth and then start poking around on big things that are supposed to be live and see if you get a circuit. Back of the ignition switch, starter motor, alternator. Or unplug them one at a time and see if the fuse blows.
You definitely need someone more intelligent than me for advice
Please dont do that, you will probably blow your meter if you touch a live terminal.My simple mind says to get a multimeter, stick it to ohms, put one end on the battery earth and then start poking around on big things that are supposed to be live and see if you get a circuit. Back of the ignition switch, starter motor, alternator. Or unplug them one at a time and see if the fuse blows.
You definitely need someone more intelligent than me for advice

When you say the fuse is blowing before it cranks is it blowing with inginition just on ( ignition switch first position) or when you turn to the second ignition position to crank?
Edited by Loubaruch on Sunday 18th May 16:42
If it blows the fuse in position 2 you have a problem with the starter circuit. Disconnect the main 12v +ve from the starter motor and see if it still blows . If so you have a problem with the cable to the starter motor. If it does not blow it looks as though your starter has a problem.
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