MOT Failure - suspension arms upper and lower

[THEDAVINATOR]

Hi everyone,

I took my chim for an MOT today and it failed on the offside front upper suspension arm, and to be fair it does look like it's seen better days...





He said all the others were on their way out, and that really they could all do with replacing. Does anyone know what's the best way forward here? I'm reasonably handy with a welder, but have read that's not really a proper repair in this situation.

Many thanks

[ashenfie]

Look cracked and sure is ready for replacement. What car is it?

[Belle427]

Those holes are probably enough to write them off but most of the metal looks fairly solid still.
My problem with new arms is the quality of the powder coating, on my old car it was flaking off after 2 years and i had to start painting them.

[Yogioes]

I replaced three front wishbones about two years ago. Same issues as yours. One had been done before I got the car.
I’d agree with the comment that powder coating as supplied is terrible. It was thin at the edges and has failed.
I’d recommend redoing them completely before fitting. Mine also needed to be tweaked to get the bush tubes to line up.
I see Motaclan are now doing the round tube version by Sportmotive. I would have preferred to fit those.

[The Three D Mucketeer]

I still argue for tubular wishbones to prevent rusting in angle ironed wishbones ... others disagree on the basis they are "disposable" in the event of a collision .

[Belle427]

Sportmotives take on it is that the originals could fold easily on a minor collision.
An interesting video, wishbones at roughly 15 minutes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kxAgX65E_CE&t=...

[The Three D Mucketeer]

Belle427 said:

Sportmotives take on it is that the originals could fold easily on a minor collision.
An interesting video, wishbones at roughly 15 minutes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kxAgX65E_CE&t=...

and say that it's undesirable others say it saves the chassis

But I notice Sportmotive uses tubular as does a Chim rear, and front & rear on my Tuscan Convertible.

[dhutch]

Hard to see from the photos if they are going to be practically saveable.

Hindsight would have seen the removed, shot blasted, and repainted ten years ago, but you can't do it all!

I've not looked into it, but I guess i would start by pricing up replacements, and then compare that to the feasibility of salvaging what you have.

[THEDAVINATOR]

Thanks for your replies everyone,

@ashenfie - car is a 96 MK2 450. I've had the car 2 years, but have only driven about 50 miles in it in that time, despite buying it with 12 months MOT with no advisories, and I MOT'ed it last year and there was one advisory for "light body corrosion" (haven't driven it much due to rough running issues, no time to sort said issues due to work and the rather unpleasant habit of loved ones dying and the associated faff).

I knew the 1st thing to do before I started using it regularly would be to fully sort and protect the underside as much as I could, but it hasn't seen a wet road since I bought it. It's been kept in a single car port with a breathable cover - so either the MOT tester missed it last year, or these cars can rust due to moisture in the air (when the original factory powder coating has seen better days).

Could I not just buy a new wishbone smoother it in wayoyl/dinitrol (like the rest of the chassis once the surface rust is removed), never drive in the rain and forget about it?

Motorclan want 175 quid for one, but it's probably worth it, unless a safe repair can be done on the old one - I'll investigate...

Edited by THEDAVINATOR on Saturday 4th October 11:00

[THEDAVINATOR]

The Three D Mucketeer said:

I still argue for tubular wishbones to prevent rusting in angle ironed wishbones ... others disagree on the basis they are "disposable" in the event of a collision .

I would argue that a collision in any TVR WILL result in 100% certain death...

(Wishbones being the least of your worries )

Edited by THEDAVINATOR on Saturday 4th October 10:52

[Belle427]

Using dinitrol or bilt hamber rust proofing is fine on new stuff, it's not ideal spraying it in existing rust but both of the above do contain inhibitors.
Jenolite do a converter in an aerosol which is useful for hard to reach areas.

[The Three D Mucketeer]

THEDAVINATOR said:

The Three D Mucketeer said:

I still argue for tubular wishbones to prevent rusting in angle ironed wishbones ... others disagree on the basis they are "disposable" in the event of a collision .

I would argue that a collision in any TVR WILL result in 100% certain death...

(Wishbones being the least of your worries )

Edited by THEDAVINATOR on Saturday 4th October 10:52

Not too sure , the owner of this one walked away without a scratch
Not sure about the wishbones

[THEDAVINATOR]

I laughed out loud at that one

[THEDAVINATOR]

I've just ordered one from Motorclan - 185 Inc. VAT and delivery.

The bit on the wishbone with the holes I think is, purely coincidentally, like 3cm away from the manifold which probably hasn't helped with the rot. It was white in colour once upon a time, most of the powder coating having long since gone, the lower wishbone is grey and looks almost new, so I didn't bother getting one.

Does anyone have any tips on replacement - I can hold a spanner, and know other people who can too...

Edited by THEDAVINATOR on Saturday 4th October 17:10

[sixor8]

Blimey, I bought all 4 front ones for a Chimaera for £300 ish in 2018! That was when there was stock at Powers Performance, Racetech and others though. Not sure if Motoclan is the only supplier now.

To change any of them, you need to support the front of the car on the inner chassis rails. Undoing the damper bolts can be difficult, as well as removing the bolts than run through the bushes. Note which bolts went were, they are variable lengths. I replaced some of mine, the nuts, especially, were heavily corroded. They are ALL imperial sizes.

I'm away from home so can't link it, but there are several threads about the sizes and torque settings. Final torquing of the nuts / bolts needs to be done either on the ground, or with the hub jacked up to get the arms horizontal, simulating 'wheels on.' Do not do it with the suspension sagging, you'll put shear pressure on the bushes.

Changing the top one, you may as well change the top ball joint too. Its a Saab 99, be careful, some supplied are too wide to fit. Tracking / camber will need checking afterwards too.

[THEDAVINATOR]

Thanks ever so much, and you kindly answered my other question which would have been "while I'm at it...."

I'll research the Saab 99 ball joint - and thanks for the tip about the the imperial nuts and bolts

Edited by THEDAVINATOR on Sunday 5th October 10:58

[Belle427]

I would just get them from Motoclan to save any fitment issues, not obscene money wise really if they are a perfect fit.
Problem is the postage costs again!

[THEDAVINATOR]

Yes, you're right - 36 quid Inc. postage and delivery and that's with a discount code (which I got after my first order).

You can't have multiple items added to one postage cost which is a bit of a bummer - each item has its designated postage cost - I called and checked...

[sixor8]

That's ridiculous, if you're ordering several items. Would it be worth collecting them in person, or do they use a dispatch warehouse with no public access?

Erdington in Birmingham is their address on the website.

[v8sag]

Just search for the TRW Saab 99/ 900 upper ball joints JBJ252, they were factory fitted, (well on mine anyway).

Edited by v8sag on Monday 6th October 13:45