Replacing front uppper ball joints
Replacing front uppper ball joints
Author
Discussion

94Griff500

Original Poster:

103 posts

104 months

Thursday
quotequote all
Seems as though this is a pretty straight forward process, but before I get into it, are these the steps to remove old and replace w/new upper ball joints ( which I already purchased ):

1. Remove wheel
2. Remove tie rod end from front hub
3. Remove upper ball joint bolts (4)
4. Swing out the top of the front hub to get at the nut holding the ball joint to the hub
5. remove the nut from the old upper ball joint
6. Use a tie rod fork to loosen and then remove the old upper ball joint
7. reassemble in reverse using new upper ball joint.
8. front end realignment

Am I missing anything before I get into doing this?

While I'm in there, I'll also pull the upper control arm off ( 2 bolts ) and check the upper control arm bushings for wear...especially the rear bushing as it sits immed below the exhaust header.

Any advice is appreciated!
Doug

PabloGee

752 posts

39 months

You've got it right.
As long as it's not all rusted together, it's an easy job.
Make sure you put the spacer(s) back as you found it into the wishbone - the earlier cars had a spacer either side, then they went to one bigger one positioned towards the front of the car.

Belle427

11,024 posts

252 months

A recent video i watched, made hard work of it for a Tvr specialist but heat it and beat it!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdowLd1XOQU&t=...

scottliv

169 posts

65 months

Yesterday (16:40)
quotequote all
You can set the camber easily with a digital inclinometer. Use a steel bar across the wheel with it on the ground. Once you know the adjustment you can do it with the brake disc clamped. Then recheck with the wheels on. But of trial and error - but hopefully you get the idea

94Griff500

Original Poster:

103 posts

104 months

Yesterday (17:32)
quotequote all
Excellent tool to use as I've only changed the camber by replacing control arm bushings, or upper & lower ball joints, so that inexpensive tool should work fine to get correct camber. The toe-in wasn't changed from the last alignment a few years ago with minimal added mileage.
Thxs!

scottliv

169 posts

65 months

Yesterday (17:58)
quotequote all
I zero it on the chassis horizontal bar then the camber is then relative to that.