Anyone tried Fabsil Gold?
Discussion
You've probably read me bleating on about my Chim's leak in other threads. Sorry, don't mean to go on about it. I guess this is what they refer to as "TVR character". The car is just awesome in just about every respect, so I can forgive it the occasional bit of incontinence!!
I was wondering if anyone has tried Fabsil Gold, vs regular Fabsil. Better? Worth the dosh?
Here's a link: www.stay-dry.co.uk/product-view.php?product=fab-gold
I was wondering if anyone has tried Fabsil Gold, vs regular Fabsil. Better? Worth the dosh?
Here's a link: www.stay-dry.co.uk/product-view.php?product=fab-gold
I have used bog standard Fabsil on my 93 Chim and it works fine for 6 months. I kept spraying it until it seeps right through and can be seen as damp patches inside. The hassle is having to mask off ( I used damp towels so they cling, don't tell her indoors) the rear screen and bodywork so the paint on method sounds like a better idea practically. Where can you buy this Thompsons stuff? Is it marketed for sealing brickwork and buildings or is this different stuff?
chris547 said:Brush on is the only way to go. I'm now into the fourth winter since application and still there's no water penetration. Vigorous preparation and soap removal. Applying by brush to a completely dry roof. Four coats, side to side, corner to corner, other corner to corner then the final coat front to back.
I kept spraying it until it seeps right through and can be seen as damp patches inside.
chris547 said:
Where can you buy this Thompsons stuff? Is it marketed for sealing brickwork and buildings or is this different stuff?
Same stuff, you can get it in Homebase/B&Q/Builders Merchants type places.. If you read the can though it does describe how you can use it for fabrics and leather so it is actually also made for the purpose. Ultimately its all the same silicone based technology with Thompsons or Fabsil, but you'll find 5l of Fabsil costs you a fortune compared to 5l of Thompsons.

Cheers
Matt
M@H said:Doh, that old chestnut. There's no difference, they're the same stuff. If anything Fabsil has the right pedigree, it has been developed specifically for use on fabric and may have some special additive that enhances its use on fabric. Thompson is a brickwork sealant that can also be used on fabric; it probably has some special additive that helps it soak into brickwork.
I only use Thomsons Waterseal on mine as I feel its the best of the bunch and by FAR the most cost effective.
Cheers,
Matt
Granted Thompson is less expensive and so being of the same basic stuff it’s a reasonable choice.
tvrbob said:
chris547 said:Brush on is the only way to go. I'm now into the fourth winter since application and still there's no water penetration. Vigorous preparation and soap removal. Applying by brush to a completely dry roof. Four coats, side to side, corner to corner, other corner to corner then the final coat front to back.
I kept spraying it until it seeps right through and can be seen as damp patches inside.
I`ve used sprays before, but this time i want to use the brush on fabsil. I think it is probably better for the stitching.
Can I ask what you use to clean the roof with prior to painting the fabsil on?
Also any tips about brushing it on as I`m worried it will leave streaks.
ads said:This really is a summer job.
I`ve used sprays before, but this time i want to use the brush on fabsil. I think it is probably better for the stitching.
Can I ask what you use to clean the roof with prior to painting the fabsil on?
Also any tips about brushing it on as I`m worried it will leave streaks.
The way I do this:
With the roof on the car, use basic washing-up liquid and hot water. Scrub the soapy water into the roof with a nail brush. Be vicious, it won't damage the fabric. When you are satisfied that the fabric is as clean as you can get it use a hose pipe and deluge the roof while scrubbing with the nail brush. You must get all the soap out or the sealant won't adhere. Leave to dry and then admire the lovely roof colour you didn't know was under all that muck.
Sealing the fabric is messy but easy. Rear section first. With the roof on, newspaper in the join to stop sealant getting onto the top section and masking around the body and window, liberally brush sealant on in stripes making sure the join line stays wet. You can brush on several coats without waiting for it to dry. Be sure to get plenty of sealant in the bottom window join. Best for subsequent coats to be in different directions. When complete, take the roof panel off and brush some sealant into the rear section joining seal.
The roof section is easier when done off the car. Same process, don't let the line dry, recoat in different directions. Leave to dry and job done. You should be good for several years; I'm still dry three year on.
Thanks, I`ll try that in the summer,
I have not had any leaks yet (touch wood, I just want to keep the roof in as best a condition as possible.
I have been doing mine every year with the spray, but I`m not convinced it is as good a job as the brush on, so i`ll try your method next. thanks again
I have not had any leaks yet (touch wood, I just want to keep the roof in as best a condition as possible.
I have been doing mine every year with the spray, but I`m not convinced it is as good a job as the brush on, so i`ll try your method next. thanks again

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