I put my fingers through my engine!!!!!!
I put my fingers through my engine!!!!!!
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Discussion

meeko

Original Poster:

172 posts

265 months

Friday 2nd December 2005
quotequote all
Well what a nightmare. I changed my thermostat last weekend. Not too hard, but when I was cleaning up the spilled coolant just below the thermostat housing, I put my fingers through the thin metal cover that sits on top of the bottom end!!

The metal was so fragile that it split open with hardly any effort. This cover runs the length of the engine and is concave. Now oil is blowing out and when ticking over you can see it bubbling inside the engine, through the split. I can't believe the engine was so weak. 45000 miles!

I don't know if I can get a plate welded, or will need to remove the plenum and throttle body etc to replace it. All for a thermostat

Any ideas are very welcome!

mongoose

4,360 posts

284 months

Friday 2nd December 2005
quotequote all
Sounds like you've just split/damaged the valley gasket?Dont run the engine like this and hopefully you wont have caused too much of a problem!Youll hopefully just have to get the gasket changed,once its been checked out.

>> Edited by mongoose on Friday 2nd December 22:40

meeko

Original Poster:

172 posts

265 months

Friday 2nd December 2005
quotequote all
I've done about 200 miles like it already. It hasn't lost much oil, only a few splatters. Is it expensive to change? It looks like you have to dismantle a lot of the engine...

GreenV8S

31,018 posts

313 months

Friday 2nd December 2005
quotequote all
Just as well you noticed it. Presumably it went due to corrosion, and if you hadn't provoked it and it had failed later (as it would eventually) you might not have noticed in time to prevent damage.

It isn't particularly hard to replace if you're competent with a spanner. Even if you take your time you should have no trouble doing it in half a day. An experienced mechanic would probably do it in under an hour.

You need a new valley gasket and end seals, best go for a composite one. The parts aren't expensive and you can get them from any RV8 parts supplier. Basically it is just a matter of removing the plenum top, trumpet base and inlet manifold. In practice you just start at the top and work down until you get to the valley gasket. You will need to drain the coolant below the level of the heads before you take the inlet manifold off. Really not much to it. Just make really really sure that you don't drop any tools or parts into the intake while you are dismantling it or you will have a really bad day when you come to start it afterwards. To be on the safe side, seal each opening with masking tape as you expose it.

meeko

Original Poster:

172 posts

265 months

Saturday 3rd December 2005
quotequote all
Thanks very much for the advice. I think I'll take it to the Land Rover garage down the road. After my last attempt at being a mechanic I think I'll call it a day!

meeko

Original Poster:

172 posts

265 months

Saturday 3rd December 2005
quotequote all
I think I'll attempt it myself as every TVR garage I call quotes over 4 hours labour! Do I need to replace any other gaskets such as on the inlet/trumpets etc? Do I need to tighten anything to specific torque settings/do up bolts in sequence? Thanks for you advice - I really appreciate it. Owning this car is like having a permanent hole in your pocket and I'm not sure I'd ever buy another TVR!

scared but happy

24,147 posts

258 months

Saturday 3rd December 2005
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Bloody hell Meeko,
I have been looking back through your posts and found:

Idle problems
Stepper motor
Heater
New HT leads
New plug extenders
New Dizzy Cap/Rotor
New Stepper
New Bosch Coil
Lost power

and put your finger through the engine

and double you seem to be getting it all at once. Have you got a picture of this fabled beast?
I can see why you are contemplating throwing in the towel. But I can assure you that once its gone you will miss it.... I am now thinking of either getting a TR8 or returning to the fold with a wedge.

>> Edited by scared but happy on Saturday 3rd December 20:59

GreenV8S

31,018 posts

313 months

Saturday 3rd December 2005
quotequote all
You don't need any parts apart from the valley gasket and end seals. Tighten the manifold, trumpet base and plenum top in a diagonal pattern so they pull down evenly. I don't remember what the various torques are but remember they're all into ally so don't overtighten, none of them need to be particularly tight. 30-40 lbft should be about right.

Boosted Ls1

21,200 posts

289 months

Saturday 3rd December 2005
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When you replace the inlet valley gasket make sure you apply some silicone in the 4 corners where the gasket meets the head/block jointing face. I mean at the ends of the rubber valley seals

Boosted.

meeko

Original Poster:

172 posts

265 months

Sunday 4th December 2005
quotequote all
Thanks for the tips everyone. I'm going to attempt this week so fingers crossed! Do I need any special silicon sealant? I have gasket compound and regular silicon - any of these any good?

Cheers....

Boosted Ls1

21,200 posts

289 months

Sunday 4th December 2005
quotequote all
meeko said:
Thanks for the tips everyone. I'm going to attempt this week so fingers crossed! Do I need any special silicon sealant? I have gasket compound and regular silicon - any of these any good?

Cheers....


They will be fine.

Boosted.

meeko

Original Poster:

172 posts

265 months

Sunday 11th December 2005
quotequote all
Fitted the valley gasket today. Not to difficult and seems to drive OK. Noticed the vacuum advance unit was hanging off the distributor. Screwed it back on - hope it's OK. Thanks to everyone for their advice