Throttle Cable
Discussion
I understand it's a standard Range Rover part, although when I used to buy these I always got them from TVR specialists.
Do you know why the cable failed? Common causes are:
cable not aligned with the pedal at the bulkhead
pedal adjusted too high, kinking the inner at the pedal
no throttle stop and enthusiastic driver
Unless you cure the problem, the new one will go the same way. I went through a load of cables on the V8S until I sorted all these problems out. The current one has been on for well over 100k miles and still looks good.
Since it has failed at the pedal end, you can easily repair the cable to better than new. What you need to do is clean up the broken end of the inner, and carefully remove the last four inches of the outer at the pedal end (shortening the whole cable by four inches - check that the cable will still reach, you should have ample length). This exposes four inches of inner for you to connect to the pedal. The cable will be connected to the pedal by a metal ferule threaded onto the cable. You need to remove this from the pedal and thread it back onto the inner, use a screw nipple to clamp the inner. Bike brake cable nipples are suitable, if you can't find one then a heavy duty wire terminal works fine.
Before you thread the old ferule back onto the cable it is well worth opening out the inside to form a bell mouth so that the inner follows a smooth curve rather than kinking sharply at this point. You can do this easily just by drilling into the end with three or four different sized drills to open the end out.
Do you know why the cable failed? Common causes are:
cable not aligned with the pedal at the bulkhead
pedal adjusted too high, kinking the inner at the pedal
no throttle stop and enthusiastic driver
Unless you cure the problem, the new one will go the same way. I went through a load of cables on the V8S until I sorted all these problems out. The current one has been on for well over 100k miles and still looks good.
Since it has failed at the pedal end, you can easily repair the cable to better than new. What you need to do is clean up the broken end of the inner, and carefully remove the last four inches of the outer at the pedal end (shortening the whole cable by four inches - check that the cable will still reach, you should have ample length). This exposes four inches of inner for you to connect to the pedal. The cable will be connected to the pedal by a metal ferule threaded onto the cable. You need to remove this from the pedal and thread it back onto the inner, use a screw nipple to clamp the inner. Bike brake cable nipples are suitable, if you can't find one then a heavy duty wire terminal works fine.
Before you thread the old ferule back onto the cable it is well worth opening out the inside to form a bell mouth so that the inner follows a smooth curve rather than kinking sharply at this point. You can do this easily just by drilling into the end with three or four different sized drills to open the end out.
If you do decide to replace the cable, don't forget to tie a length of string onto the old one before you pull it through....makes fitting the new one a lot easier 
When mine snapped (also at the pedal end) it took quite some time to fit (pedal end was ok...it was the 'engine' end that was the trouble because the fitments are right under the wire mesh near the wipers).
Finally, make sure that when the pedal is pushed right down to the stop, you still have a small amount of slack in the cable.
>> Edited by chim666 on Thursday 15th December 16:42
When mine snapped (also at the pedal end) it took quite some time to fit (pedal end was ok...it was the 'engine' end that was the trouble because the fitments are right under the wire mesh near the wipers).
Finally, make sure that when the pedal is pushed right down to the stop, you still have a small amount of slack in the cable.
>> Edited by chim666 on Thursday 15th December 16:42
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