Chimaera 500 Virgin - Purchase

[Andy JB]

I'm about to commit on a 97 500, low mileage example which I have tested but yet committed to purchase. Can anyone suggest what i primarily need to look for apart from the obvious service history/ oil changes etc?

In summary it has wax oiled chassis, & good mechanicals, electrics all work, decent roof & good body. Brake discs/tyres (S01's)etc all concurr with mileage (9k). Interior not great with lifted veneer & shiny seats, crazing on the tunnel, but could be vastly improved with TLC.

What about belts (clearly no cambelt) but what other items should I be checking at this age in consideration of low miles? Becauase of mileage its doubtful its had a 12k service every year.

Any specialsists in the Midlands Staffordshire areas for recommendation. Cost of a £12k/full service?

Are they as easy to drive as a 400 or too wild? Gear box/Diff oil changes recommended ? Does 500 need any extra TLC?

Any help appreciated to assist purchase decision.

[bigdods]

Andy JB said:

Brake discs/tyres (S01's)etc all concurr with mileage (9k). Interior not great with lifted veneer & shiny seats, crazing on the tunnel, but could be vastly improved with TLC.

so this is a nearly 10 year old car possibly on its original tyres (seems to be implied by the post) ... SO you need 4 new tyres straight away. Lifted veneer suggests something (Im sure someone will say what maybe damp?). Shiny seats but only 9k ? doesnt this suggest bigger mileage or am I misunderstanding what you mean.

To be honest based on everything I have read on here it sounds like its one to avoid. Such a low mileage means it has spent long periods stood up or been driven short distances. Both very bad mechanically. Far better off with a high mileage regularly used and loved one.

This isnt your average ford where mileage is everything. These cars need to be used regularly to keep them in fine fettle.

Personally I wouldnt touch it but if you do then make sure you get a full independant inspection.

All above is IMHO I am sure wiser heads than mine will be along shortly with more factual information..

Edit to add:

If you decide to go ahead check the outriggers, prod , poke scrape and tap them. Then check again to be double sure !

>> Edited by bigdods on Saturday 14th January 19:11

[whitechimp500]

A couple of questions , i would ask the vendor;
9K in 9 years is a very low mileage ,even for a TVR.
The mileometer's are known to stick on Chims/Griffs , but usually around the x9999 mark.
Is mileage substantiated with annual MOT's and Service History ?
How/where has it been stored ?- i keep my Tivs warm/covered all year round
If everything checks out ok , I would'nt be too concerned about the mileage ,just be prepared for a couple of months of "snagging" to sort out seized/lazy components.
Certainly , excessive component wear should'nt be a problem .

[Petros]

Re servicing etc I use use Ian at Middlewich. 01606831244. Well worth a short blast up the M6

[Andy JB]

If you decide to go ahead check the outriggers, prod , poke scrape and tap them. Then check again to be double sure !

Excuse my ignorance, I am technically aware, but never having previously owned a TVR, please explain what these are & where or are they known under another common name ?

Thanks for other useful valid replies. This example has been used for past 6 months by current mechanic owner, I imagine any under-use issues would have been resolved by now, however any more head over heart comments still welcome.

[bigdods]

The outriggers are part of the chassis. They are tubes, one down each side of the car under the sills, so basically they sit under the doors on each side, running from rear of the front wheel arch to the front of the rear wheel arch. If you do a search on here for outriggers you will see a lot of posts. Basicallythey tend to rust/rot rather badly on older cars if they havent been protected/looked after - its a common problem, can be fixed but is likely to be expensive. A well cared for car will likely have been coated with something protective (not just waxoil) - check the tubes for flaking (not serious) and holes/rot (very serious).

For surface rust and flaking about £300 will get you a scrape off and repaint from several good indies. If there are holes or rot then you will be looking at > £1000 minimum for repairs. Its the top checklist item (IMHO) when looking at a chim so check it out.

IF you dont know TVRs then you must must must have it independantly inspected.



>> Edited by bigdods on Saturday 14th January 21:32

[Andy JB]

Extremely useful thanks - I'm just about to go for a second look with a deposit in my wallet. As the vendor is a mechanic he has hydraulic ramps, so at least i know what to check for underneath other than the normal with the outriggers - invaluable thanks. I'll try & keep my head in gear & not get carried away if its not right with the heart.

[Red V8]

Andy, how did you get on, any luck?

[Parrot of Doom]

Thing about outriggers is that externally they can look ok, but once the body is off the top side can look a right mess.

I wouldn't worry about buying this car too much, provided:

1) You can prove the history is correct
2) You factor in a couple of £0000 in fettling costs
3) It drives and stops in a straight line

If you can get a good discount on the car, I'd then take it up to Ian's place, give him the keys, and let him go over every aspect of the car with a fine tooth-comb. The car might just have been a cheap toy for someone with money to burn.

[Andy JB]

Well i committed to the purchase and picked up the 500 yesterday, so i'm officially in the club.

The outriggers looked perfect on inspection, not even any surface corrosion evident, and chassis was waxoiled too. TVR confirmed teh car was shipped to Hong Kong initially as a demo trailered around the Island, and remianed there as a toy for 4 years. This qualifies the condition due to their climate and low miles. It has a history since its return in 2001 although I will be getting a full inspection thanks to Ian's advice.

Initial impressions are its more sports GT than outright sports car, my modified MX5 would completely out-corner it based on initial impressions, but i have to get used to it first and deployment of all that power.

- Two initial questions, what should the oil pressure read under normal load/ idle?
- When should teh belts be changed ?
- Is it normal for there to feel some slight play in teh steering when engine switched off (does have power steering)?
- What options do I have to replace the walnut dash which typically has lifted ie cost/ specialists/locations etc?

Thanks for previous advice, I may see you soon.

[Parrot of Doom]

Andy JB said:

Well i committed to the purchase and picked up the 500 yesterday, so i'm officially in the club.

Enjoy

Andy JB said:

The outriggers looked perfect on inspection, not even any surface corrosion evident, and chassis was waxoiled too. TVR confirmed teh car was shipped to Hong Kong initially as a demo trailered around the Island, and remianed there as a toy for 4 years. This qualifies the condition due to their climate and low miles. It has a history since its return in 2001 although I will be getting a full inspection thanks to Ian's advice.

HK is a fairly humid environment, much more so than here. I'd have a sniff around and check that nothing major is rusting (suspension for instance).

Andy JB said:

Initial impressions are its more sports GT than outright sports car, my modified MX5 would completely out-corner it based on initial impressions, but i have to get used to it first and deployment of all that power.

Don't forget that mid-corner, this car will be massively more powerful than the MX-5. Take it carefully.

Andy JB said:

- Two initial questions, what should the oil pressure read under normal load/ idle? - When should teh belts be changed ? - Is it normal for there to feel some slight play in teh steering when engine switched off (does have power steering)? - What options do I have to replace the walnut dash which typically has lifted ie cost/ specialists/locations etc? Thanks for previous advice, I may see you soon.

Oil pressure, IIRC so long as it doesn't drop below 15psi you're ok. It will rise under acceleration. Don't exceed about 3000rpm until the engine is up to temp.

No idea about the belts, but its not expensive to replace anyway. Might be a good idea to keep the old one as a spare in the boot.

The steering will have a little bit of play. You need to start worrying when you're driving along and the wheel is knocking between your hands. That happened to mine, 2x UJs on the steering column (less than £100). I'd also have the suspension and alignment checked over, it could be that the shocks have gone a bit soggy. Check them for leaks.

You can replace the dash with like-for-like, many people have also bought a metal dash from Leven, although personally I think they're ugly

For re-trimming, www.martrim.co.uk is a good place.

>> Edited by Parrot of Doom on Wednesday 18th January 17:59

[Andy JB]

Thanks again for advice. All the suspension components were rust free when i checked as were the outriggers, I suspect its led a charmed life. Apart from the dash lifting there are no signs of humidity affecting the metal parts.

I will source a service manual to decide which parts are worthy of replacing or take advice from Ian, i know the belts have previous cars have been critical to the engine eg timing belts, although the Chimp belts appear to be external/easy to replace and not catasrophic to engine components if they fail.

The alignment has been checked recently too, although i will be fitting 2 new rear S01's supplied soon, so i may get it re-checked.

Is the TVR Car Club a useful club to join - what are the alternatives?

[just_william]

I went to my dealer (Fernhurst) and got a bag of spares including timing belt and bulbs and fuses and relays etc. I just took their advice as to what it should contain. Cost about £67 but carries the bits that RAC etc wouldn't have which was good idea I thought. TVR club has great magazine (ideal for bathrooms) and all the info of trips and monthly meets for your area and others if your travelling about. Doesn't cost that much either for a year if I remember. Also heed the warnings about weather and twitching back ends. All useful stuff as it can bite you when your least expecting it. Hows the smile?
Welcome too
Jimbo

[The Surveyor]

Andy JB said:

i know the belts have previous cars have been critical to the engine eg timing belts, although the Chimp belts appear to be external/easy to replace and not catasrophic to engine components if they fail.

Hi Andy, and welcome.

Just a word of caution with the 'belt comment, it drives the water pump, so if it fails, things may get a little hot! As said before, they are easy to change and a standard land-rover part (check you get the right one, as they are different depending on Air-con, PAS options) and don't cost the earth.

Mine is only a 4 litre, but after destroying my 5 litre Griffith on a damp road within the first few months of ownership, i know that they can bite the inexperienced... Once the sumer comes, and the roads are dry, then your fully appreciate what a great car these things are
Paul

[theaxe]

just_william said:

I went to my dealer (Fernhurst) and got a bag of spares including timing belt and bulbs and fuses and relays etc. I just took their advice as to what it should contain. Cost about £67 but carries the bits that RAC etc wouldn't have which was good idea I thought.

That's a great idea, I'll see if I can do the same.... Did you get a throttle cable?

[Andy JB]

Thanks Guys - I am used to rear wheel drive sports cars but i'm taking it relatively easy at the moment and getting used to the dynamics, engine characteristics, and the extra power. I have seen what can happen in the wet and I plan to keep it for a few years yet and probably only use it on dry days where possible. Having said that I was out topless last night until 1am so I'm not keeping to my plan at the moment but at least i'm smiling.

Good idea about the bag of spares. Any other suggestions let me know.

What is teh 'bible' and where can I buy one? Does the format contain service schedules and Haynes type repair guides or is it just a buying guide?

What about battery conditioners - any recommendations of type?