Distributor cap + rotor arm

[philr]

I am looking at replacing my distributor cap and rotor arm on my 5.0l, but seem to be finding differing advice. One source said that these are just standard Range Rover parts and yet Steve's bible says that they may need to be specially prepared/balanced (sorry can't remember the exact phrase) by TVR and so its better to buy from TVR.

Anybody actually replaced theirs and if so what is the story ?
Is there a "better" make to go for while I'm in the process of replacing them, or just the standard Rover/TVR parts ?

>>> Edited by philr on Thursday 19th December 21:09

[2 Sheds]

Get the genuine Lucas parts, from good autofactors, if you have trouble finding one locally i can mail order you one.
Tim

[shpub]

I was referring to the distributor balance weights that adjust the advancement. TVR have said that they are standard and modified!!

The cap and rotor are standard but be careful as there are some variations out there!

Steve

[Qube]

I changed my distributor cap and rotor arm not so long back , some caps don't fit properly and are a bit slack but no problem with the rotor arm , ended up buying them from halfords, the blue cap is a genuine lucas part.

[soddy]

Agree with Tim .. definately the genuine Lucas parts .. never had a problem with them.

[shpub]

I agree with the Lucas stuff... the problem is that I have seen several different distributors fitted to these cars and have been given the wrong cap before... Just doing my duty to say please check so that people don't go wasting their time....

Steve

[philr]

Thanks guys for the advice. Well I too the cap off yesterday and had a good look. Still in pretty good shape and so is the rotor arm - so I guess that is not my problem.
Problem is that the the engine is very rough and "lumpy" when I start off, now that its cold. Almost as is its not firing on all cylinders. Seems to be OK when the engine is wamed up though.

Seeing as the cap + rotor arm seem OK, maybe the plug leads ?
Is there an easy/safe way to check these ?

[hut49]

Seems to me that you're focused on the electrics when it is more likely to be a fuel/air mixture problem. Do you have any problem starting the engine when it's hot? Or is the problem only evident just when it's starting from cold? From a cold start I start the engine and then leave the engine running for 30-45 seconds without ever touching the throttle. If I do touch the throttle then it seems to take longer to idle smoothly.

[philr]

Problem is only evident from a cold start.
I guess I'm thinking of the electrics because it sounds like its not firing on all cylinders. The service was only 1000 miles (max) ago, so the plugs should have been changed then, The distributor cap + rotor arm seem pretty good really, so the next thing down the line is the ignition leads....