Discussion
Splitfire's arent worth putting in, on a par with neon blue washer jets IMO.
Stick with the NGK's.
ACT suggest running 7's, RPi suggest 6's. I'm going to run 6's this weekend in the racer at Silverstone, the idea is it's a slightly hotter plug and shouldn't foul up so easily trundling round the paddock etc, the only concern is they may lead to a bit of pinking so I may have to adjust the timing a little to suit.
Regards
Iain
Stick with the NGK's.
ACT suggest running 7's, RPi suggest 6's. I'm going to run 6's this weekend in the racer at Silverstone, the idea is it's a slightly hotter plug and shouldn't foul up so easily trundling round the paddock etc, the only concern is they may lead to a bit of pinking so I may have to adjust the timing a little to suit.
Regards
Iain
chassis 33 said:
Thanks Mike, I'm very wary of that, but I've had a few problems with fouling as well as everything else thats been going on with that engine so I'll be keeping a very close eye on things on Friday.
Regards
Iain
Have you 'read' the corona at the bottom of the insulator right after a race, before to much driving in thye paddock? Is the fouling at low, idle rpm's?
Boosted.
Hi Rob,
My engine isn't anything too special in terms of spec;
3.9l RV8 block badged as a 4l by TVR, ie smaller diameter crank journals
Serpentine front end, and hotwire, running standard pistons and CR or if anything a slightly lower CR due to the composite head gasket.
Heads are standard, except for John Eales bulleted bronze valve guides
Cam is a Viper Typhoon running against Rhodes lifters for that clackity clackity sound that you just love...
Thanks to Mike and Peter, I'll get a set of 7's too. I asked the gent who bolted it together for me if he had a choice which would he go for the 6 or 7, he said 6's as they would tend to clear any fouling better 7's. Thus far, his advice hasn't let me down, it's been numb nuts here causing all the problems! Once he's set up at Oulton today he's popping round for a chat so I'll show him the thread and get his (re-considered) opinion.
Regards
Iain.
P.S. Apologies for the hijack...it wasn't intentional, at the end of the day if the car is running well on B7ECS's why change?
My engine isn't anything too special in terms of spec;
3.9l RV8 block badged as a 4l by TVR, ie smaller diameter crank journals
Serpentine front end, and hotwire, running standard pistons and CR or if anything a slightly lower CR due to the composite head gasket.
Heads are standard, except for John Eales bulleted bronze valve guides
Cam is a Viper Typhoon running against Rhodes lifters for that clackity clackity sound that you just love...
Thanks to Mike and Peter, I'll get a set of 7's too. I asked the gent who bolted it together for me if he had a choice which would he go for the 6 or 7, he said 6's as they would tend to clear any fouling better 7's. Thus far, his advice hasn't let me down, it's been numb nuts here causing all the problems! Once he's set up at Oulton today he's popping round for a chat so I'll show him the thread and get his (re-considered) opinion.
Regards
Iain.
P.S. Apologies for the hijack...it wasn't intentional, at the end of the day if the car is running well on B7ECS's why change?
chassis 33 said:
Splitfire's arent worth putting in, on a par with neon blue washer jets IMO.
Stick with the NGK's.
ACT suggest running 7's, RPi suggest 6's. I'm going to run 6's this weekend in the racer at Silverstone, the idea is it's a slightly hotter plug and shouldn't foul up so easily trundling round the paddock etc, the only concern is they may lead to a bit of pinking so I may have to adjust the timing a little to suit.
Regards
Iain
I am running 6's in my pretty much standard 400 - no problems. As you say they should cope better with higher temps. - no reason why there should be any problems with lower temp.s?
chassis 33 said:
Hi Rob,
My engine isn't anything too special in terms of spec;
3.9l RV8 block badged as a 4l by TVR, ie smaller diameter crank journals
Serpentine front end, and hotwire, running standard pistons and CR or if anything a slightly lower CR due to the composite head gasket.
Heads are standard, except for John Eales bulleted bronze valve guides
Cam is a Viper Typhoon running against Rhodes lifters for that clackity clackity sound that you just love...![]()
Thanks to Mike and Peter, I'll get a set of 7's too. I asked the gent who bolted it together for me if he had a choice which would he go for the 6 or 7, he said 6's as they would tend to clear any fouling better 7's. Thus far, his advice hasn't let me down, it's been numb nuts here causing all the problems! Once he's set up at Oulton today he's popping round for a chat so I'll show him the thread and get his (re-considered) opinion.
Regards
Hmm yse sorry about the hi jacking too, 6's will be fine in that then, however to be totaly honest if you are fouling plugs up that quickly a heat change wont make the slightest bit of difference, the head gasket could be creating you problems, i cant really say because i dont know if you have had the heads skimmed to suit, but if the engine original had tin head gaskets and you have gone to felpro ones your cr is going to be around 8 -1, this alone could cause plug fouling due to a terrible combustion
Iain.
P.S. Apologies for the hijack...it wasn't intentional, at the end of the day if the car is running well on B7ECS's why change?
v8 racing said:
I normally run 6's on all my engines and customers unless there are going in track cars or race motors
So for a road car that's tracked (20 min sessions) 2 or 3 times a year would you suggest a 6 is OK? Or should I change to 7's for a track day?
I think I read that projecting plugs run cooler as the electrodes are further in the combustion chamber, in the air/fuel charge, and hence it's wise to go up a heat rating if using a projected plug. Made sense to me!...
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