Squeak squeak

[Marknewbie500]

I have (or rather my 97 Chim 500 has) just developed an annoying squeak from the back end of the car - it's intermittant - what are the likely causes, apart from a sticking brake pad? I presume that wheel bearings rumble rather than squeak.

Ta

[tvrbob]

Wheel bearings squeak at first then rumble if you try to keep using them.

[Marknewbie500]

I take it that it is very unlikely for a diff to squeak? Wheel bearing are easy to replace, but I would need to raid the piggy bank for a diff overhaul.

Ta

[tvrbob]

Diff would be described as a moan or a rumble. Wheel bearing squeak will change with sideways load so try cornering and check if there's a change in the intensity. It's not an infallible test but it's a good pointer to wheel bearing problems.

[tahiti450]

Is there any association with suspension movement? Mine squeaks at the front at times and responds to a judicious squirt of aerosol rubber and nylon lubricant or WD40 to the wishbone bushes.

[Marknewbie500]

Many thanks.
There appears to be no relation to suspension - when slowing down on a flat road, it is coincident with road speed. Also, only occurs after about 20 miles driving. It has to be a wheel bearing - must check the bible to see how easy it is to DIY (I have a gear puller)......cheers

[tvrbob]

Rear wheel bearings are a bu99er. Torque setting is very high but you have to protect the diff when turning the hub nut. If you get it done at a 'monkey mechanics' they will damage your diff. Doing it yourself is a pain as you'll see in the bible. Considering the cost of replacing the diff it may be worth taking it to a TVR repair centre.

[Marknewbie500]

Cheers Bob
I take it that the bearings are ball type races and replacement is the only option?

[tvrbob]

Marknewbie500 said:

Cheers Bob I take it that the bearings are ball type races and replacement is the only option?

Yes, it's a Ford part. Can't recall which car though.

[neejah]

I think they're 2.0litre Sierra, not too bad to do if you can get a BIG torque wrench!
I used a piece of studding attached through the brake mountings onto the floor with a bar between the wheel nuts to lock the hub when I did mine. Completely takes diff damage out of the equation! I'm sure that they're are a number of better solutions though!

[tvrbob]

neejah said:

I'm sure that they're are a number of better solutions though!

Get an old Ford steel wheel. Angle grind a bigger centre hole so that the socket can pass through. Fit the steel wheel and let the car off the jack so that the tyre prevents rotation of the hub. Lift the far side wheel so that any rotational movement that does get through will result in harmless rotation of the other wheel. I haven't tried this but the method came to me when I last tackled a rear bearing

[nemasis]

does the squeek go if you press the brake when the car is moving???????

[Marknewbie500]

No to using the brakes - noise still there.
What exactly is the problem with rotating the hub? I may be being a bit t'ick here, but if you rotate the one hub with the other wheel on the ground, surely this will just result in the drive shaft back- driving the (LS)diff, prop shaft and gearbox (which will be in Nuetal)??
I am just concerned as I rotated the problem wheel by hand whilst the other wheel was on the floor in order to ascertain what was causing the squeak. Is this a problem???? oR Is IT JusT fRiDaY AFtErnOON StupidITy SEtting iN?

Ta

[tvrbob]

The problem is that by leaving the car in gear and leaving the opposite wheel on the ground the hub you are working on is pretty solid. A monkey mechanic would slot the socket on the hub nut and undo / refit using the resistance of the drivechain to stop the hub rotating. Normal diffs can usually cope with this treatment though I wouldn't advise it. The LSD diff cannot cope with these forces and you'll end up with a failing LSD unit. If you do damage the LSD you'll be in for a big expense, I speak from personal and bitter experience.