Discussion
hiya, how conceivable is it for a reasonably competent DIY mechanic (a.k.a me) to change my stock manifoilds for some ACT stainless items? i have heard horror stories of inaccessible bolts and skin loss etc, but i would have a crack if anyone else has done similar and recommends it...
all the best - shorty
presumably would be fitting a pre-catless pair.
all the best - shorty
presumably would be fitting a pre-catless pair.
I changed mine on the Griff and it's not too bad as long as you have a good selection of spanners and sockets. Helps to have the car jacked up so you can take the front wheel off the side you are doing, as some bolts are much easier to access from underneath. Only trouble I had was trying to get the manifolds and Y-pipe to line up in order to get a good enough seal. Still not perfect now but good enough for MOT. Anyone in the Sussex area that wants a hand , etc, let me know.
Al.
Al.
I've had the offside manifold off. If you have hands like shovels or a bunch of bananas it will be pretty awkward: there's not much room. My car didn't have many miles on it and the bolts were still in quite good condition, so they weren't too difficult to remove. But, as someone else suggested, get the front end up on axle stands.
My suggestion is that you have a go at the easiest looking bolt first, on the basis that they are hopefully all in the same sort of condition, so you'll then know what the rest will be like to remove. Then move straight to the most difficult looking one: if you can remove that, you should be able to complete the job. Good luck!
My suggestion is that you have a go at the easiest looking bolt first, on the basis that they are hopefully all in the same sort of condition, so you'll then know what the rest will be like to remove. Then move straight to the most difficult looking one: if you can remove that, you should be able to complete the job. Good luck!
tvrbob said:
while i supply cans of beer!!!
Hmmmmm....sounds like a good idea...we could have a manifold changing day...and with the good weather in the northeast get a BBQ going while we watch paul change our manifolds!!!
i'm not likeing the way this thread is heading...... Just pick on the guy with the small hands!
But as said before the passenger side is easier than the drives side as the starter motor and upper water pipes seam to get in the way on that one. It is just conventional spannering though, not a great deal of skill needed (otherwise i would have taken it to HHC) but just a job not to be rushed. And yes, the lower bolts are much easier to get at from underneath. More than happy to lend a (small) hand though, just give me a shout....
But as said before the passenger side is easier than the drives side as the starter motor and upper water pipes seam to get in the way on that one. It is just conventional spannering though, not a great deal of skill needed (otherwise i would have taken it to HHC) but just a job not to be rushed. And yes, the lower bolts are much easier to get at from underneath. More than happy to lend a (small) hand though, just give me a shout....
HarryW said:In theory both the engine and exhaust are rubber mounted, so no, I don't think so. It will help promote oil leaks if you jack up under the sump though.
Re aligning Y piece and manifolds - a jack under the engine helps!
I would have thought this would pre-stress the exhaust leading to cracking in the not too distant :hehe
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