Nut on Header Tank
Discussion
as a last resort i think there,s just enough meat on there to get a good set of molegrips or stilsons on,failing that the nuts soft enough to drill out,doubt you will have to resort to this.please dont be tempted to use your car if its low on coolant.failing that take the bottle off put the cap in a vice & twist the whole pot,more leverage see.
Ta for advice Simon.
I dropped a clanger yesterday by topping up the expansion tank up with pure antifreeze by mistake.
It was ok this morning, but boiled up on way home. Got to close to 120 degrees. Managed to get it home, and it boiled over and spat the antifreeze out.
I am not sure I actually need to get into the header tank as I have re-filled the expansion tank (two 3rds full) with a 50/50 antifreeze / water mix and run it for 15 mins. It got up to just over 95 degrees and the fans then kicked in and cooled it down closer to 90 degrees. I checked the heater system and the heater is blowing hot when required, and blows cool when I turn the heater off.
I hope everything is now ok, but I have to say i am a bit afraid to drive it to work tomorow!
Any thoughts?
I dropped a clanger yesterday by topping up the expansion tank up with pure antifreeze by mistake.
It was ok this morning, but boiled up on way home. Got to close to 120 degrees. Managed to get it home, and it boiled over and spat the antifreeze out.
I am not sure I actually need to get into the header tank as I have re-filled the expansion tank (two 3rds full) with a 50/50 antifreeze / water mix and run it for 15 mins. It got up to just over 95 degrees and the fans then kicked in and cooled it down closer to 90 degrees. I checked the heater system and the heater is blowing hot when required, and blows cool when I turn the heater off.
I hope everything is now ok, but I have to say i am a bit afraid to drive it to work tomorow!
Any thoughts?
If you mean the swirl pot then just get a big bit of metal across it (or a big screwdriver as mentioned) I have a very slim "wrecking" bar that works perfectly. If you mean the expansion tank (blue cap) then you can gently "drift" it round with a bit of wood and a hammer (be careful).
Yep tried that, but it started to strip the brass nut.
As I say, I hope I have sorted it by simply re-filling the header tank with the correct water / anti freeze mix.
I have run it on idle for another 15 mins up to temp. It peaked at just under 90, and the fans kicked in to cool it a degree or two. So I hope all is okay.
I guess I will only know when i go to work tomorrow.
As I say, I hope I have sorted it by simply re-filling the header tank with the correct water / anti freeze mix.
I have run it on idle for another 15 mins up to temp. It peaked at just under 90, and the fans kicked in to cool it a degree or two. So I hope all is okay.
I guess I will only know when i go to work tomorrow.
That won't help you I'm afraid as you will have a large "air mass" in the top of the swirl pot. If you look at the pipe from the expansion tank you'll find it goes to the top of the swirl pot beside the brass nut. Accordingly there is no way for that coolant in the expansion tank to travel uphill to get into the swirl pot.
You've got to get the nut off to fill the system properly I'm afraid.
You've got to get the nut off to fill the system properly I'm afraid.
I'd be very cautious about estimating how full the system is without being able to look in the swirl pot. Have you tried loosening the bleed nut on the radiator and seeing if fluid comes out? Might also be worth seeing if you can shift the swirl pot nut when the engine is hot. Obviously you wouldn't want to remove it when the system is hot, but thermal expansion might just free the nut up a bit.
A very big screwdriver, tyre levers, crowbar, anything like that will do it, when you've lost enough of your knuckles. If you haven't got anything quite thick enough put your biggest implement in from whichever side you can get best purchase from, then tap a flat blade scredriver in from the other side to wedge it in place. If you can find someone daft enough get them to cover the lot to stop them slipping up and out. Strong gloves would be a good idea.
You'll find many an expansion tank with a concave top due to exertions trying to get that brass plug shifted. When you finally do get it shifted you might want to look at Steve Heaths site, he does a nice replacement which does away with the aggro.
You'll find many an expansion tank with a concave top due to exertions trying to get that brass plug shifted. When you finally do get it shifted you might want to look at Steve Heaths site, he does a nice replacement which does away with the aggro.
Edited by victormeldrew on Monday 10th July 21:40
err.. don't go too bull at a gate at it mind you or you could tear/bend the aly.. as mentioned Brass and Aly have different expansion characteristics so it might well shift with some heat (A soldering torch could help actaully) Oh and try a raft of penetrating oils etc (not combined with direct heat!!)
Do not rely on it being ok at the moment especially if the bleed screw in the Rad is dry!
Do not rely on it being ok at the moment especially if the bleed screw in the Rad is dry!
Edited by M@H on Monday 10th July 21:41
Done it!!
Managed to get the screw off with a bit of extra leverage.
Re-filled the system by following the insructions in the handbook.... kept feeding the swirl tank whilst bleeding the radiator. I hope it will be ok. I will keep an eye on it tomorrow, and hopefully theres no damage done due to over heating.
Thanks for all the help, much appreciated.
Managed to get the screw off with a bit of extra leverage.
Re-filled the system by following the insructions in the handbook.... kept feeding the swirl tank whilst bleeding the radiator. I hope it will be ok. I will keep an eye on it tomorrow, and hopefully theres no damage done due to over heating.
Thanks for all the help, much appreciated.
[/quote]Why do you say that's a clanger? Won't do any harm at all, you can run on 100% anti-freeze if you want.[/quote]
Everything was okay until I topped it up with pure coolant.... then the problems started. When I checked the owners manual and it specified a 50/50 mix. Hence my assumption that I had dropped a clanger.
Everything was okay until I topped it up with pure coolant.... then the problems started. When I checked the owners manual and it specified a 50/50 mix. Hence my assumption that I had dropped a clanger.
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Jolly good 