Window adjustment - you guys been duped?????
Discussion
After searching a few threads and consulting 'the bible' on how to adjust the door window limit I started last night by removing the speaker and trying to get to the trim fasteners. 1 hour later and with no forearm skin left I decided to give up!
I then had a quick poke around the top of the door and found that you can get to the adjusting screw from the top. Just put the window down and then have a poke around the 'draught excluder strip on the inner side of the glass and you will find the top of the window mechanism with the slotted screw poking out the top. A small flat bladed screwdriver then easily fits and can be adjusted with no hassle!
I then had a quick poke around the top of the door and found that you can get to the adjusting screw from the top. Just put the window down and then have a poke around the 'draught excluder strip on the inner side of the glass and you will find the top of the window mechanism with the slotted screw poking out the top. A small flat bladed screwdriver then easily fits and can be adjusted with no hassle!
A quick search on here for Chimaera window turned this useful link up
http://trefor_jones1.users.btopenworl
http://trefor_jones1.users.btopenworl
My Passenger side window was not winding all the way up and leaving a small gap which lead to a lot of wind noise at speed. I have followed the above method and it now seals against the Targa roof seal. However since I did this the window has become very slow. I've tried adjusting back to where I started but it is still very Slow. Any deas what could have caused this?
S7Paul said:
I have a different problem. The height adjustment isn't the issue, it's the angle of the top of the window. Where it meets the roof there's a slim wedge-shaped gap as the top of the window isn't parallel to the roof seal. I can't find any way to adjust this out.
Bend the floor.Glassman said:
S7Paul said:
I have a different problem. The height adjustment isn't the issue, it's the angle of the top of the window. Where it meets the roof there's a slim wedge-shaped gap as the top of the window isn't parallel to the roof seal. I can't find any way to adjust this out.
Bend the floor.
jdharris said:
TADTS...
Mine became so slow it got stuck open in a squally shower one day! Dry window runners were diagnosed but the drivers window is still much slower than the passenger one even after having been greased.
But did you grease the rack itself in the door or just the runners?Mine became so slow it got stuck open in a squally shower one day! Dry window runners were diagnosed but the drivers window is still much slower than the passenger one even after having been greased.
S7Paul said:
I have a different problem. The height adjustment isn't the issue, it's the angle of the top of the window. Where it meets the roof there's a slim wedge-shaped gap as the top of the window isn't parallel to the roof seal. I can't find any way to adjust this out.
You can adjust the two fixing bolts where the bracket meets the glass,its a bit of hit and miss as you need the window down a little to get to these.GreenV8S said:
The window runners need to be lubricated but you need to use the correct rubber lubricant - ordinary grease/oil will rot the rubber, making it swell and jam the glass.
Is the driver side window subject to voltage drop or motor degradation? or is it just adjustment and lubrication issues that cause it to be so slow compared to the passengers side?WOO5IE said:
Good link. Remember reading it a while back. Seems unfinished though since it talks about a voltage drop and doesnt follow up the cause. If a parallel wire were introduced to share the load then the voltage would be restored and the window work even better?Chimjunkie said:
WOO5IE said:
Good link. Remember reading it a while back. Seems unfinished though since it talks about a voltage drop and doesnt follow up the cause. If a parallel wire were introduced to share the load then the voltage would be restored and the window work even better?Although they work a lot better than before I did this I agree that it would be better to have 12 volts going to the motor. I think that over the winter I will eventually get round to fitting some relays as detailed in a previous thread. Where can I get the relays with the extra (87a I think?) terminal?
PS As I understand it the voltage drop is due to the wonderfull design of the TVR wiring loom!
Edited by TVR keith on Tuesday 18th December 10:05
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