Down shifting to 2nd gear problems
Down shifting to 2nd gear problems
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blaze_away

Original Poster:

1,641 posts

243 months

Tuesday 1st August 2006
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This is my first TVR, and as expected I am loving it...and as expected....niggles are coming....but in a kind of sadistic way this is nice as you really get to know the beast when things need fetteling.
After driving it now for several hundred miles the gearbox was definately more difficult to engage gears as the engine got hotter, so according to advixe form other threads I have just changed the gearbox oil, and for good measure did the diff too. In the box I have used ATF/220 (as specified on the plate under the bonnet). All well and good easy job used a syphon tube and funnel to refill the box from standing position beside the car, raising the funnel end to head height got the new fluid in in minutes. Driving post oil change is now much better, gear changes are smoother and easier, great. but there is a BUT....Ever since doing the oil change I now find that it is impossible to downshift to 2nd gear if I am travelling at more than 28 mph or engine above 500/600 rpm idle speed.
Any attempt to downshift outside those conditions results in much nashing of gear teeth and wait for the speed and engine revs to drop and then all is OK, any ideas ??

blaze_away

Original Poster:

1,641 posts

243 months

Tuesday 1st August 2006
quotequote all
Oooops forgot to add its a 1993 Chim 400

Ozstyle

392 posts

253 months

Wednesday 2nd August 2006
quotequote all
Hi,

I had a similar problem, after getting up to temperature and a good few miles, down shifting gears became difficult (T5 gbox). Thouroughly bled the hydraulic clutch and problem solved.

Ozstyle

blaze_away

Original Poster:

1,641 posts

243 months

Wednesday 2nd August 2006
quotequote all
Ozstyle said:
Hi,

I had a similar problem, after getting up to temperature and a good few miles, down shifting gears became difficult (T5 gbox). Thouroughly bled the hydraulic clutch and problem solved.

Ozstyle



Cheers Ozstyle,
unfortunately I have done that already, I new the master cylinder was leaking when I bought the car so I fitted new one and slave cylinder too. Clutch works perfectly and totally disengages after about quarter pedal depression, so its not a dragging clutch problem.
So I am still looking for some inspired sleuthing............

Cheers

mongoose

4,360 posts

285 months

Wednesday 2nd August 2006
quotequote all
blaze_away said:
Ozstyle said:
Hi,

I had a similar problem, after getting up to temperature and a good few miles, down shifting gears became difficult (T5 gbox). Thouroughly bled the hydraulic clutch and problem solved.

Ozstyle



Cheers Ozstyle,
unfortunately I have done that already, I new the master cylinder was leaking when I bought the car so I fitted new one and slave cylinder too. Clutch works perfectly and totally disengages after about quarter pedal depression, so its not a dragging clutch problem.
So I am still looking for some inspired sleuthing............

Cheers
When i looked into buying a TR7 many years ago,the check on the gearbox was to look for baulking when changing down from 3rd to 2nd.This was the same Rover gearbox found on earlier Griffs and Chims.If your is the Rover box then it may be in need of a rebuild if the syncro's starting to fail here.Perhaps someone was using a different oil before you to lessen the effect,hence now you notice it with ATF?
If you do get it rebuilt,use redline MTL in it afterwards,it will give it much more protection than ATF.