Rust holes in outriggers.
Discussion
I've just found the same on my '94 Grif .. outrigger replacement with a 9" chassis lift to do the work seems to come in around 1700+vat ...
I'm now thinking of a winter project to lift the body myself, refurb a few bits and replace bushes etc .. welding work on the chassis alone is around 700+vat ... so if DIY, I can spend the "spare" 1k I haven't got on other bits!
All these are rough "over the phone" figures so liable to refinement based on how the chassis looks to the experts. The centre section seems very solid, partially due to sump, gearbox and diff oil leaks but also the fact it's not bashed by stones from the tyres.
I'm now thinking of a winter project to lift the body myself, refurb a few bits and replace bushes etc .. welding work on the chassis alone is around 700+vat ... so if DIY, I can spend the "spare" 1k I haven't got on other bits!
All these are rough "over the phone" figures so liable to refinement based on how the chassis looks to the experts. The centre section seems very solid, partially due to sump, gearbox and diff oil leaks but also the fact it's not bashed by stones from the tyres.
Edited by scoule on Sunday 1st October 18:52
How easy is it to lift the body just a little to allow the outriggers to be replaced?
My chim is the same in that the central chasis is very sound as its covered in oil and stuff, the white powder coating is fully intact as far as I can see. The drivers side outrigger is in a much better condition than the passenger one.
My chim is the same in that the central chasis is very sound as its covered in oil and stuff, the white powder coating is fully intact as far as I can see. The drivers side outrigger is in a much better condition than the passenger one.
pink_floyd said:
The drivers side outrigger is in a much better condition than the passenger one.
This is probably due to the water and mud on the sides of roads.
I'm cleaning and Rust Bullet-ing mind over the next month or so- just hoping not to find anything too scary!
BTW, from what I've read on here, lifting the body is certainly doable, but requires lots of:
a) knowledge (use these forums)
b) people
c) kit
d) luck
I did this on my Wedge, I raised the body high enough to slit the outriggers off with an angle grinder, i welded box section further in to "jig" the sections that run to the outriggers, then cut em off. Steel will be common or garden stuff, my materials cost me less than £50, but it was a weeks work in a very well kitted work shop, with a 4 poster.
I made sure my Chimaera was solid this time around!
I made sure my Chimaera was solid this time around!
I did the body lift and replaced my outriggers a couple of years ago. It is a big job but definitely do-able with just the tools, axle stands, trolley jacks etc that you have in a normal well kitted home garage. Some poeple who have done this have completely gone to town and removed the body entirely and stripped everything off the chassis, had it shot blasted and so on. I just replaced the outriggers and cleaned and treated the rest of the chassis with the body raised by 18 inches or so.
Off the top of my head the major bits were....
Undo all the bolts you can see in the floor and seatbelt mounts (I took the seats out which helped)
Remove the fuel tank to get at the bolts behind it
I think I had to remove the radiator to get to the bolts at the front of the chassis (I had it re-cored so it was out anyway but I think it was necessary anyway)
Remove the dash top and loosen the dash bottom to get at the bolts on the top of the transmission tunnel (but beneath the dash)
Disconnect the wiring and pull enough slack through the bulkhead to allow for the body lift
Disconnect the universal joint in the steering column
Disconnect the heater pipes above the passenger footwell
Remove the exhaust manifolds
There are also a couple of wires to disconnect going to the gearbox and to the sensor on the drive shft/axle
I'm sure that there were other pipes etc under the bonnet to disconnect but I don't remember exactly
Having done all that I used pieces of 4x2 timber and two trolley jacks to jack up the front and rear bit by bit propping it on wooden blocks as I went.
Next came lots of fun with angle grinders, wire brushes, mig welder, hammerite, waxoil and the like!!
You may be surprised how corroded the tops of the outriggers are once you expose them!
As I said it is a big job. My car was "under repair" for two months or so as I did it occasional evenings, some weekends, days off etc.
I'm glad that I did the job because I know it's been done to a standard that I'm happy with, and I won't have to do it again. However, there are other ways of doing it, and I know that some people have had repairs without raising the body using a cut and sleeve technique which probably works OK.
Anyway, I have probably forgotten some bits above so just regard it as an indication of the size of the job not a to do list. Good luck to anyone doing this...you know you'll enjoy it!!
Off the top of my head the major bits were....
Undo all the bolts you can see in the floor and seatbelt mounts (I took the seats out which helped)
Remove the fuel tank to get at the bolts behind it
I think I had to remove the radiator to get to the bolts at the front of the chassis (I had it re-cored so it was out anyway but I think it was necessary anyway)
Remove the dash top and loosen the dash bottom to get at the bolts on the top of the transmission tunnel (but beneath the dash)
Disconnect the wiring and pull enough slack through the bulkhead to allow for the body lift
Disconnect the universal joint in the steering column
Disconnect the heater pipes above the passenger footwell
Remove the exhaust manifolds
There are also a couple of wires to disconnect going to the gearbox and to the sensor on the drive shft/axle
I'm sure that there were other pipes etc under the bonnet to disconnect but I don't remember exactly
Having done all that I used pieces of 4x2 timber and two trolley jacks to jack up the front and rear bit by bit propping it on wooden blocks as I went.
Next came lots of fun with angle grinders, wire brushes, mig welder, hammerite, waxoil and the like!!
You may be surprised how corroded the tops of the outriggers are once you expose them!
As I said it is a big job. My car was "under repair" for two months or so as I did it occasional evenings, some weekends, days off etc.
I'm glad that I did the job because I know it's been done to a standard that I'm happy with, and I won't have to do it again. However, there are other ways of doing it, and I know that some people have had repairs without raising the body using a cut and sleeve technique which probably works OK.
Anyway, I have probably forgotten some bits above so just regard it as an indication of the size of the job not a to do list. Good luck to anyone doing this...you know you'll enjoy it!!
Edited by paul garabette on Thursday 5th October 15:32
well had the job looked at and as have rotted at the front, they are not part of the MOT ???? as they are 12 inches away from nearest front susp mounting, looks like if you cut out the gussett plates,you can cut out the rusty tube and weld it back in place and slide a re-inforcing piece between the old and new pipes, will let u know how we go on !!!
think moving the body up is a big b--- ache, especially if the above works !!!!!
think moving the body up is a big b--- ache, especially if the above works !!!!!
Had my 93 Chimaera chassis repaired at Peninsula TVR. Had the chassis welded up, galvanised and then powder coated, Also treated her to new wishbones, poly bushes, springs, adjustable shocks, steering rack, arb drop links, clutch, fuel and brake pipes and a service. Cost about £4k including parts. Then when I got her home I fitted some uprated brakes, 300mm wilwood up front and grooved discs at the back. Then needed new wheels to fit over the uprated discs, that was an expensive year. Chassis still looks like new 3 years later.
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