Failed MOT. Handbrake.

[poorpeet]

To be honest I have got used to not using the useless thing as its always been pretty poor. I guess I'll have to try to sort it out now though. Any tips on getting the best out of it?
The pads are only around 1/4 worn.

[CaptiV8ed]

Take up any slack in the cable, but remember, you need arms like Arnie to pull it up to anything useful. Perhaps your MOT tester needs to do some training!

[kev north]

i had the same thing bring it to a different mot

[miketvr]

I took the handbrake lever apart and drilled another hole for the clevis pin slightly higher to increase the leverage. This is not a job for the feint hearted but if you're handy with a drill it's not that difficult(from memory I drilled from either side so you need to be reasonably accurate). I also needed a slightly longer clevis pin due the fact that the boss is wider where you need to drill. I drilled about a third of the way towards the pivot ie two thirds away from the pivot but If anything it could have gone to half way. It now works great and surprises the MOT guy who says that they are usually rubbish. Adjust most of the slack out of the cable on reassembly.

Mike

[Monkey Boy]

Hi, The problem might be that the handbrake only has 3 or 4 notches travel. I found that if you dont set the cable to allow near full travel of the lever the automatic adjusters dont work effectively. This does however leave you in a tricky situation regarding having "sufficient reserve travel" as an MOT requirement. It may be worth slackening the cable off to allow adjustment then before the mot re-adjusting, however some examiners may not like that it only uses first two/ three notches, catch 22 realy.

PS take care on hills etc untill your confident you fixed it.

[Griffter]

You can manually adjust the automatic adjuster. The automatic adjuster often gets stiff and the spring which operates it loses strength.
This is easiest with the wheels off, but can be done with the car on the ground (particularly if you've done it before as then you can really do it by feel). Assuming you've got the rear in the air, remove both wheels and look at the back of the caliper for the cam plate which the handbrake cable operates. You'll see a spring mounted on this, which operates to twist the cam plate in the opposite direction to the way the cable pulls it. Make sure the handbrake is fully off, press the brake pedal a couple of times to settle the pads, and then manually 'assist' the spring to return the cam plate as far as it will go. Do both sides. For good measure operate and release the handbrake a couple of times and repeat.
If a non-adjusting auto-adjuster was the problem you'll notice the handbrake has lost a couple of notches of travel. Your handbrake should work a lot better too.
If you can spare the effort and it looks worthwhile it's worth cleaning and lubricating the cam plate, cable end and spring. Don't let grease get anywhere near the brake pads.
While the rear's in the air it might be worth adjusting the handbrake cable adjuster to get the handbrake to come on after 3 or 4 notches.
Obviously take every precaution when jacking and supporting the car - especialy if you're getting in and out to operate the brake pedal.
Finally, this is a way of adjusting the handbrake automatic adjuster - but if the automatic adjustment is stiff and/or inoperative, you are not solving the problem - just temporarily working around it.

[poorpeet]

Thanks everyone

[-JUT-]

Mine needed cable replacement, and even afterwards it takes a lot of effort to hold it on a sharp hill... in many cases it's just TADTS... (not all cases before the odd few chime in saying their handbrakes work fine with barely any effort, you're the lucky few)

[edward1]

I generally find that the propblem with the handbrake is the angle of the handle ,it is easier to operate from the passenger side than dirvers. Once pulled on sufficient (normally 3rd click) it holds well but pulling it up to this point from the drivers side is not easy. On my recent MOT the brake test was not done on the rollers (due to LSD) but on the road with a device that they sit on the floor and rocks to show the brake force. For the handbrake 25% was reqired and the tester let me pull the lever from the passenger side so I could give it enough to make sure it passed with plenty in reserve.

I'd try a different test station, in my experience (with my daily drive not the Chim) there can be significant differences in the outcome.