DIY servicing :confused
Discussion
I am about to carry out a small (43k mile) service on my 2000 450 Chim.
I have looked in the Bible and there is no mention of the air filter in the service schedule, and no infomation about cleaning/ replacing it.
Dirty spongy thing looks like a clean would be in order, can I wash it out in petrol and then use the stuff my son puts on his motocross bike air filter? I'm quite happy with the performance so not interested in changing to a K&N as some have done.
Also some questions about the gearbox and diff oil.
Do they need changing on an intermeadiate service? The car is driven fairly sensibly with no track days but has done 6000 miles since the last service by a TVR dealer.
How do you access the drain plug on the T5 box?
Do I remove the plate under the car secured by lots of bolts to get at it?
Can I fill the box and diff using a normal squezze bottle of the appropriate oil or do I need a syringe and a length of tube?
Lastly, what oil do I put in these?
The handbook and the Bible both refer to the same Mobil products,(ATF 220 foR The gearbox & SHC 80W 140ID for the diff) but I cannot find anyone in Mid Kent who stocks them.
Not only that but given these numbers all the motor factors and car accesory shops are a bit doubtfull as to what to use.
Walldonway TVR will sell me the oil if I take suitable containers (I'll have to drink lots of milk!) they buy the stuff in bulk only. I definately can't pour the oil in from a milk bottle so would prefer to buy it in litre bottles.
I apologise if some of these questions sound a bit as though I don't know what I'm doing, but I did build my own RV8 Cobra so I think I can cope with this if I can get the right info!
I have looked in the Bible and there is no mention of the air filter in the service schedule, and no infomation about cleaning/ replacing it.
Dirty spongy thing looks like a clean would be in order, can I wash it out in petrol and then use the stuff my son puts on his motocross bike air filter? I'm quite happy with the performance so not interested in changing to a K&N as some have done.
Also some questions about the gearbox and diff oil.
Do they need changing on an intermeadiate service? The car is driven fairly sensibly with no track days but has done 6000 miles since the last service by a TVR dealer.
How do you access the drain plug on the T5 box?
Do I remove the plate under the car secured by lots of bolts to get at it?
Can I fill the box and diff using a normal squezze bottle of the appropriate oil or do I need a syringe and a length of tube?
Lastly, what oil do I put in these?
The handbook and the Bible both refer to the same Mobil products,(ATF 220 foR The gearbox & SHC 80W 140ID for the diff) but I cannot find anyone in Mid Kent who stocks them.
Not only that but given these numbers all the motor factors and car accesory shops are a bit doubtfull as to what to use.
Walldonway TVR will sell me the oil if I take suitable containers (I'll have to drink lots of milk!) they buy the stuff in bulk only. I definately can't pour the oil in from a milk bottle so would prefer to buy it in litre bottles.
I apologise if some of these questions sound a bit as though I don't know what I'm doing, but I did build my own RV8 Cobra so I think I can cope with this if I can get the right info!
Millers do equivalent oil
You'll struggle to get Mobile & this stuff is good 
www.sideauto.co.uk do mail order 01702 257225 Richard is a very helpful guy
I'm not connected but pls mention Del silver Griff and i might get a free octane booster next time
TVR Keith,
1. Air filter; better to clean first with a degreaser (G*unk etc), then hot soapy water, air dry thoroughly and then spray on the sticky motocross stuff.
2. T5 Box drain plug should be obvious (it's not hidden by a plate), but make sure that you can undo the side filler plug first else it could be embarassing. I can't recall the sizes (8mm?) but you need good hex keys or one of those kits of sump/drain plug keys. A syringe makes refilling easier but is not essential. If you can't undo the drain plug you will have to use a syringe to extract the old oil. Use the best auto transmission fluid (ATF) you can afford, as it affects the feel of the gearchange a lot when hot.
3. Diff: a must do as a lot of people and even garages dont bother. Drain plug is a b*gger so use the syringe method via the filler. Mine is a Hydratrak so the filler is accessible by removing the o/side wheel. From memory you need a 28mm AF spanner and make sure it's a good one and won't damage the plug. You don't need LSD oil in a Hydratrak as the slip bit is done in a separate internal capsule that you can't access.
4. For both the ATF and the diff oil, go to Rally Design in Faversham. ( www.rallydesign.co.uk ).
Ian.
1. Air filter; better to clean first with a degreaser (G*unk etc), then hot soapy water, air dry thoroughly and then spray on the sticky motocross stuff.
2. T5 Box drain plug should be obvious (it's not hidden by a plate), but make sure that you can undo the side filler plug first else it could be embarassing. I can't recall the sizes (8mm?) but you need good hex keys or one of those kits of sump/drain plug keys. A syringe makes refilling easier but is not essential. If you can't undo the drain plug you will have to use a syringe to extract the old oil. Use the best auto transmission fluid (ATF) you can afford, as it affects the feel of the gearchange a lot when hot.
3. Diff: a must do as a lot of people and even garages dont bother. Drain plug is a b*gger so use the syringe method via the filler. Mine is a Hydratrak so the filler is accessible by removing the o/side wheel. From memory you need a 28mm AF spanner and make sure it's a good one and won't damage the plug. You don't need LSD oil in a Hydratrak as the slip bit is done in a separate internal capsule that you can't access.
4. For both the ATF and the diff oil, go to Rally Design in Faversham. ( www.rallydesign.co.uk ).
Ian.
That was certainly good advice from Ian about the gearbox filler plug before draining the oil!
Had a good look just now, the filler plug seems to be on the N/S of the box, above the exhaust pipe. How are you supposed to access that?!!! Bl**dy TVR. I'm not removing the exhaust, looks like a job for Chris Baldock at James motorsports.
Also looked at the electrical connections to the fuel pump, gave them a good clean and wiped with vaseline afterwards, they weren't in pristine condition.
Also discovered that the sump gasket is leaking at the rear. Hardly surprising considering the bolts were all loose(I know you don't have to swing on them). Not the usual problem with the valley gasket, no oil leaking up there.
Decided I'd better look at this big fuse you're all on about. Unclipped the cover and no corrosion so all's well; except one of the connection bolts was loose!
Put vaseline on that as well, Christ at this rate I'll have none left for anything else!
So all said a fullfilling couple of hours and a few potential breakdowns hopefully avoided
Had a good look just now, the filler plug seems to be on the N/S of the box, above the exhaust pipe. How are you supposed to access that?!!! Bl**dy TVR. I'm not removing the exhaust, looks like a job for Chris Baldock at James motorsports.
Also looked at the electrical connections to the fuel pump, gave them a good clean and wiped with vaseline afterwards, they weren't in pristine condition.
Also discovered that the sump gasket is leaking at the rear. Hardly surprising considering the bolts were all loose(I know you don't have to swing on them). Not the usual problem with the valley gasket, no oil leaking up there.
Decided I'd better look at this big fuse you're all on about. Unclipped the cover and no corrosion so all's well; except one of the connection bolts was loose!
Put vaseline on that as well, Christ at this rate I'll have none left for anything else!
So all said a fullfilling couple of hours and a few potential breakdowns hopefully avoided
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