Outriggers

[zumbruk]

Just pressure washed out the wheel wells (sad, or what?) prior to the annual wire brush/paint (POR15 this year rather than Hammerite)/waxoyl extravaganza.

Overall, I was quite pleased. The waxoyl from 2 years ago is still making the water bead up, and the only bit of the chassis where the coating is coming off is the front mounting of the front lower wishbone on the off-side.

If you want to be even sadder than me, here's some photos;

www.axalotl.demon.co.uk/piccies/tvr/

Quite a lot of superficial rust, especially at the back, but not half bad for a 10 y/o car.

[that daddy]

from your photo,s if your chassis is this tidy your outriggers are good also,look after that chassis,what ever your doing its working thats for sure,chop chop,get treating........

[Ricardo Bertone]

Is that your roll bar mounting arrangement in the last photo?

The only way to get rid of the last piece of rust is to strip it all out and sand blast it - I did this with my wishbones, hub uprights, etc. and then used Zinga, followed by POR15 and top coated with Hammerite Smoothrite. A fine spray coat of clear Tectyl 305 then seals it all in. Hopefully a lifetime job!

Ricardo

[zumbruk]

Ricardo Bertone said:

Is that your roll bar mounting arrangement in the last photo?

Yep. It's the Rollcentre bar as fitted by Tower View Racing.

Ricardo Bertone said:

The only way to get rid of the last piece of rust is to strip it all out and sand blast it - I did this with my wishbones, hub uprights, etc. and then used Zinga, followed by POR15 and top coated with Hammerite Smoothrite. A fine spray coat of clear Tectyl 305 then seals it all in. Hopefully a lifetime job!

A tad over the top. This was last done two years ago, where I wire brushed the loose rust off, primed with a phosphoric acid primer, 2 coats of Hammerite and Waxoyled on top. The bits I did are as good as when I did them. I need to do the wishbones & a couple of bits of the chassis this time.

[Ricardo Bertone]

Instead of using messy Waxoyl try either the clear Tectyl or new clear Dinitrol - looks much better and makes it easy to see what's going on underneath rust wise.

Ricardo

[That Daddy]

Ricardo, your right there, dinitrol is more of a proffesional product than waxoyl,waxoyl is only ever suggested because its so easily available,used on painted surfaces it dry,s out and cracks,dinitrol does not do this,bloody expensive though.if you have some slight corrosion then soaking in dinitrol injection wax should freeze the process,ideal for bits of the outriggers you cant access.

Edited by That Daddy on Saturday 18th November 22:17

[ads]

Can you get the Dinitrol in bigger tins so I could just fill my Shutz can up and spray it on? would make it more cost effective I think!

Edited by ads on Monday 20th November 14:39

[that daddy]

frosts the restorer people,are a Dinitrol dealer if i remember give them a go.Honda dealers also sell there products well they did years ago,was Honda approved if i remember.

Edited by that daddy on Monday 20th November 15:16

[tvrsmurf]

Spot on there, Frosts is where I've got my dinitrol from before. Here's the link for the lazy of keyboard hand...

www.frost.co.uk/productList.asp?catID=63&frostCat=Dinitrol%20Products

cheers
smurf

[poorpeet]

Which Dintrol product? The rust converter looks pricy but the 3125 is only £12 per litre & from its description sounds just right for the tops of the tubes. Anyone used it?

[theaxe]

I used on mine, great stuff. Not clear though, more of a bronze colour.

They do a tube with a brass thing on the end which sprays in all directions. Very handy for doing the tops of the out-riggers.

[zumbruk]

poorpeet said:

Which Dintrol product? The rust converter looks pricy

Well, it would do, given that there is only one kind of "rust converter" which actually works;

[ads]

Thanks for that guys. I'm sort of after buying it in 5ltr tins really, I have my mates tiv to do too. I'll give frosts a go. cheers.

[Ricardo Bertone]

I have never been a fan of the 'slosh on loads of grungy waxoyl or similar' - much better to properly repair rust areas, apply Zinga to bare metal, paint with POR15 and cover with a clear, dry coat of Tectyl 305 - let's you see what's going on and can be pressure washed without washing off - and it looks so much better - not a mess of gunge covering lord knows what!

If a job's worth doing it's worth doing right!

Ricardo

PS Zinga acts as a 'sacrificial anode' with a 'throw' of up to a metre so takes care of future corrosion too!

Edited by Ricardo Bertone on Tuesday 21st November 13:41

[RichardD]

Ricardo Bertone said:

...
PS Zinga acts as a 'sacrificial anode' with a 'throw' of up to a metre so takes care of future corrosion too!

You've been reading their website!

[M@H]

Ricardo Bertone said:

PS Zinga acts as a 'sacrificial anode' with a 'throw' of up to a metre so takes care of future corrosion too!

Edited by Ricardo Bertone on Tuesday 21st November 13:41

Is that whilst underwater..?

[Ricardo Bertone]

I have used it for some time now - haven't seen their website - is it good? Must take a look.

Under water? - probably as it was developed for the marine industry.

Ricardo

[edtvr]

ads said:

Thanks for that guys. I'm sort of after buying it in 5ltr tins really, I have my mates tiv to do too. I'll give frosts a go. cheers.

Adam you could use my 2 poster if you fancy doing mine aswell

Ed

Edited by edtvr on Tuesday 21st November 19:26

[GreenV8S]

M@H said:

Ricardo Bertone said:

PS Zinga acts as a 'sacrificial anode' with a 'throw' of up to a metre so takes care of future corrosion too!

Edited by Ricardo Bertone on Tuesday 21st November 13:41

Is that whilst underwater..?

Probably ONLY while immersed in salt water or other conductive solution. I don't see a sacrificial anode working on a car (unless you fall in the river).

[Ricardo Bertone]

I think that you have misunderstood the sacrificial anode process if you think the metal has to be submerged in salty water.