Best company to go to for chassis treatment
Best company to go to for chassis treatment
Author
Discussion

else

Original Poster:

795 posts

268 months

Tuesday 21st November 2006
quotequote all
I live in north Essex and just wondered who is the best company to go to to treat my chassis especially the outriggers.

It has been waxoyled previous to my ownership but i think it needs stripping back to bare metal in certain places and treating with more effective products like POR15 or similar.

Any advice and in particular any personal recommendations would be gratefully received.

Andy

oggs

8,817 posts

284 months

Tuesday 21st November 2006
quotequote all
Have a word with Matt at Silverstone Performance

seasider

12,728 posts

279 months

Tuesday 21st November 2006
quotequote all
Buy some axle stands, a wire brush, a few other bits like paint scrapers that can be formed to the shapes required & a brush !!!!


Not knocking any firm in particular but you will know if you miss any bits

s5tvr

1,239 posts

263 months

Tuesday 21st November 2006
quotequote all
For any garage to do the job properly would take many hours and you'd be looking at a hefty bill. If you want it done properly and permanently, then do it yourself using POR15, Hammerite & Waxoyl.

It's an ideal winter project.

Edited by s5tvr on Tuesday 21st November 22:14

oggs

8,817 posts

284 months

Tuesday 21st November 2006
quotequote all
seasider said:
Buy some axle stands, a wire brush, a few other bits like paint scrapers that can be formed to the shapes required & a brush !!!!


Not knocking any firm in particular but you will know if you miss any bits



True... but you never offered to do mine

tvrbob

11,197 posts

285 months

Tuesday 21st November 2006
quotequote all
s5tvr said:
For any garage to do the job properly would take many hours and you'd be looking at a hefty bill. If you want it done properly and permanently, then do it yourself using POR15, Hammerite & Waxoyl.

It's an ideal winter project.

Very true.

The period required for drying after cleaning, curing after rust treatment and cure after paint application means that it is impossible to do the job right in a day, even two days is too short. Cleaning properly will mean that the chassis needs to air dry for several days. Rust cure is usually a couple of hours, Hamerite takes an hour. If the say they'll be finished in less than a week then I wouldn't go near them.

Another point to consider. When doing the mucky work do you really believe the shop Forman, who you discussed the job with, is hands on? I doubt it very much. The mucky tasks are always done by the workshop junior who is probably sick of getting all the dirty jobs so is unlikely to bother getting the muck out of the really awkward places.

Do it yourself, only then will you know the job is right.

else

Original Poster:

795 posts

268 months

Tuesday 21st November 2006
quotequote all
seasider said:
Buy some axle stands, a wire brush, a few other bits like paint scrapers that can be formed to the shapes required & a brush !!!!


Not knocking any firm in particular but you will know if you miss any bits


I am considering it but i thought there might be a company that specialises in this fairly unexciting and dirty job.

This must be an opportunity for one of the independents to offer this sought after service, especially as our cars get older.

I don't mind paying good money for a good job but i would like some recommendations from satisfied customers if there are any.

Andy

seasider

12,728 posts

279 months

Tuesday 21st November 2006
quotequote all
else said:
seasider said:
Buy some axle stands, a wire brush, a few other bits like paint scrapers that can be formed to the shapes required & a brush !!!!


Not knocking any firm in particular but you will know if you miss any bits


I am considering it but i thought there might be a company that specialises in this fairly unexciting and dirty job.

This must be an opportunity for one of the independents to offer this sought after service, especially as our cars get older.

I don't mind paying good money for a good job but i would like some recommendations from satisfied customers if there are any.

Andy
If you find one that does a good a job as i think a DIY one can be done please tell Oggs

oggs

8,817 posts

284 months

Tuesday 21st November 2006
quotequote all
seasider said:
If you find one that does a good a job as i think a DIY one can be done please tell Oggs


I refer the older gentleman to my earlier post on this thread.. The company who done mine last week

seasider

12,728 posts

279 months

Tuesday 21st November 2006
quotequote all
oggs said:
seasider said:
If you find one that does a good a job as i think a DIY one can be done please tell Oggs


I refer the older gentleman to my earlier post on this thread.. The company who done mine last week
I will ask the gentleman with no hair !!! If he thinks it was stripped & treated as thoroughly as it would've been if he got his fat arse on the ground & done it himself ??

Still not having a go at said company in particular

Edited by seasider on Tuesday 21st November 23:07

Wildfire

9,949 posts

282 months

Wednesday 22nd November 2006
quotequote all
Steam Clean + POR 15 + Tectyl WD 504. Job done.

else

Original Poster:

795 posts

268 months

Wednesday 22nd November 2006
quotequote all
Thanks guys. thumbup

I think i'll get mys self some of those extra high axle stands and have a go myself.

One last question, where is the best place to get some of that POR and Tectyl stuff?

Andy

Ricardo Bertone

562 posts

240 months

Wednesday 22nd November 2006
quotequote all
You'll get POR15 and Zinga mailorder from Frosts and if you go to the Tectyl webpage you'll get details of your nearest stockist. By the way I would use the almost clear Tectyl (305? I think) as it's designed for use on surface metal and dries to a hard finish - only comes off with white spirit or multiple hot steam washes - it was designed for MoD for use on new military vehicles kept in storage I believe. I have had it on vehicles for almost twenty years and its still intact - I hose the underside down to remove dirt and you can still see what's underneath.

Ricardo

Slacey

1,113 posts

244 months

Thursday 23rd November 2006
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Sportmotive did a sterling job on my chassis a couple of weeks back - they had the car for 4 weeks though as my diff was off being rebuilt so they were able to take their time and allow plenty of curing for the products. That was starting from a bare metal strip as well - they even documented the whole process with photo's too. Definately recommended!

-JUT-

2,224 posts

243 months

Friday 24th November 2006
quotequote all
One of the first things I have done on mine was a treatment by Rustmaster:

www.rustmaster.co.uk/

Very thorough job, maybe too thorough, had to clean the shiny bits in the engine bay with white spirit afterwards!!! But got in absolutely everywhere, filled all the cavities and a comprehensive coating of everything on the outside. Plus, they offer free inspections and patch-ups (if you catch the chassis and scrape it off, for example) and a gaurantee against any rust showing through for 3 years afterwards.

Glad I did it as it was the only badly neglected part on the car when I got it, and I figure treatments like that can only be good for preserving the value of the car.

Wildfire

9,949 posts

282 months

Friday 24th November 2006
quotequote all
Ricardo Bertone said:
You'll get POR15 and Zinga mailorder from Frosts and if you go to the Tectyl webpage you'll get details of your nearest stockist. By the way I would use the almost clear Tectyl (305? I think) as it's designed for use on surface metal and dries to a hard finish - only comes off with white spirit or multiple hot steam washes - it was designed for MoD for use on new military vehicles kept in storage I believe. I have had it on vehicles for almost twenty years and its still intact - I hose the underside down to remove dirt and you can still see what's underneath.

Ricardo


Hmmmm.. not used 305, I used 504. Sort of a Honey coloured one, does the same and dries hard. Bad thing about Tectyl is that it's noly available in something silly like 20 litre batches, individual Gallon canisters but you have to buy a job lot. If anyone knows where to get some individually I'd be very interested.

_Deejay_

5,057 posts

284 months

Saturday 25th November 2006
quotequote all
-JUT- said:
One of the first things I have done on mine was a treatment by Rustmaster:

www.rustmaster.co.uk/

Very thorough job, maybe too thorough, had to clean the shiny bits in the engine bay with white spirit afterwards!!! But got in absolutely everywhere, filled all the cavities and a comprehensive coating of everything on the outside. Plus, they offer free inspections and patch-ups (if you catch the chassis and scrape it off, for example) and a gaurantee against any rust showing through for 3 years afterwards.

Glad I did it as it was the only badly neglected part on the car when I got it, and I figure treatments like that can only be good for preserving the value of the car.


Do you mind if I ask how much they charged?

else

Original Poster:

795 posts

268 months

Monday 27th November 2006
quotequote all
_Deejay_ said:
-JUT- said:
One of the first things I have done on mine was a treatment by Rustmaster:

www.rustmaster.co.uk/

Very thorough job, maybe too thorough, had to clean the shiny bits in the engine bay with white spirit afterwards!!! But got in absolutely everywhere, filled all the cavities and a comprehensive coating of everything on the outside. Plus, they offer free inspections and patch-ups (if you catch the chassis and scrape it off, for example) and a gaurantee against any rust showing through for 3 years afterwards.

Glad I did it as it was the only badly neglected part on the car when I got it, and I figure treatments like that can only be good for preserving the value of the car.


Do you mind if I ask how much they charged?


I'd be quite interested also

the gazman

1,686 posts

250 months

Tuesday 28th November 2006
quotequote all
I have heard good things about Moore Racing in Milton Keynes, apparantly they also offer a part body lift if the outriggers need replacing.

barrybike

33 posts

273 months

Tuesday 28th November 2006
quotequote all
steam clean the chassis with the hostest water possible.

use Dinitrol 3125 thinned with white spirit and use a parafin gun with 60 psi pressure, this way it will cover the chassis top tubes and get onto the mounting plates as well

then use Comma Waxseal ontop of the 3125

Rustbuster is the cheapest place for Dinitrol

just done mine and it looks great so should last longer than the original TVR covering or lack off