Spark Plugs

[tvrchutney]

Hello All
I'm a newbie Chimaera owner. Have recently picked up a great little car at a bargain price on ebay. Its got a full TVR service history and seems generally ok. However I want to get the plugs out myself and check/clean and or change them. I got my diy spanner set out with various spark plug sockets, but the plugs look virtually impossible to get out with these tools. Is there a special slimline tool that is used? Am I best leaving them alone until next service and let garage do them?
Thanks

[chassis 33]

I use a 3/8" drive socket, with short extension bar (about 2"ish) and a plug spanner, all from Halfords. It's trickey at first, especially putting them back in, but it's easy once you've done it a dozen times

Any particular reason for swapping the plugs between services?
Regards
Iain

[tvrchutney]

Hi
the reason to get the plugs out was just to see the condition of them, gives so many clues to the condition of the engine and how its running. Thats all really. Do you know what gap they should have? I've got a 97 400.
Regards
Max

[chassis 33]

Off the top of my head I dont, it has been covered in the past so a quick search of these hallowed pages will give you the answer. I'll report back in a mo...

...35thou/0.9mm seems to be the popular choice.

Regards
Iain

Edited by chassis 33 on Wednesday 22 November 10:08

[andy-w]

chassis 33 said:

Off the top of my head I dont, it has been covered in the past so a quick search of these hallowed pages will give you the answer. I'll report back in a mo...

...35thou/0.9mm seems to be the popular choice.

Regards
Iain

Edited by chassis 33 on Wednesday 22 November 10:08

...for some reason i thought it was .7?

I use the motorcycle type spanner...the one that has a long handle attached to a pressed steel socket. Found that much easier than using a socket and ratchet or T bar. You will find your own way of doing it!!!...the two rears on the L/H bank are a pain!!!

[That Daddy]

Max, if you decide to fit a new set make sure there NGK if your pulling them out just replace anyways, a little bit of copper slip on the threads would be a good idea too.

[andy jb]

Echo teh other comments - i did mine a few months a go for the first time, can take a while, theres 8x for a start, the most tricky being O/S nearest to driver. You need a combination of extensions and a knuckle joint plus 3/8. Put them back by finger to save cross threading but use an old HT lead to tighten once the thread has taken its quicker than using your fingers.

[tvrchutney]

jeepers, thanks for all the replies guys, having read them I think i'm going to juts leave them and let garage do them on next service!
Cheers
Max

[Nick P]

anyone use fancy 4 pronged versions?

[GreenV8S]

The best tools I've found for this are a plug spanner with a hex boss on the outside, which can be turned by an open ender, and a plug spanner with an integral UJ and handle. These are both much shorter than a conventional separate UK and T bar/ratchet, and this is the key to getting access. I'd always screw in a plug by hand until the crush washer touches, if there's too much resistance to do that easily then there's something wrong. Likewise when removing the plug use the spanner to unscrew it far enough to release the crush washer and then wind it out by hand.

[That Daddy]

nick p, the 4 prongs just give a longer service interval,not better or increased spark as some people would leave you to beleive.

[Nick P]

That Daddy said:

nick p, the 4 prongs just give a longer service interval,not better or increased spark as some people would leave you to beleive.

oh right....no real gain then....it was just something i wondered