Pads for '99 4.0L Chim
Discussion
Hi,
There is loads of stuff on this forum about pads, but very few definitive answers (the stuff of a good forum I guess).
I use my chim as an everyday car, drive fast when I can but not like a nutter. It has no modifications. I'm going to driving be down to Lemans this year and noticed my rear pads were a little on the thin side, so this weekend I'm going to renew them front and back.
In short:
What pads do I need? Preferably want to get them from halfords - for ease (I know where it is)
Hope you can help
Thanks in advance
Ps
Any tips on changing pads would also be welcome
There is loads of stuff on this forum about pads, but very few definitive answers (the stuff of a good forum I guess).
I use my chim as an everyday car, drive fast when I can but not like a nutter. It has no modifications. I'm going to driving be down to Lemans this year and noticed my rear pads were a little on the thin side, so this weekend I'm going to renew them front and back.
In short:
What pads do I need? Preferably want to get them from halfords - for ease (I know where it is)
Hope you can help
Thanks in advance
Ps
Any tips on changing pads would also be welcome
I would not use Halfords own brand, especially on the TVR.
They are Ford pads, but there seem to be several different types. I took mine out and down to the local motor factor who was able to match them and I got Ferodo or Mintex pads cheaper than Halfords.
The front ones are easy to remove and replace. I always do one side at a time, pumping the brake pedal after doing each wheel in order not to displace too much fluid out the top of the reservoir. Put some rag around that anyway to catch any fluid, paint doesn't like brake fluid!
The rear ones are a little more difficult.
Release the handbrake. Reach in front of the O/S/R wheel and slacken the adjuster on the handbrake cable, not easy but not too bad.
Remove the two bolts holding the top of the caliper and lift it off, remove the pads.
You will need a brake piston wind back tool (I got mine in Halfords). I have never needed on before but my attempts to push the pistons back on the Chim were in vain without it. Not expensive though.
Fit the pads coating the backs with Copper grease, again work one side at a time and pumping the brake afterwards.
Tighten up the handbrake cable so that the wheels are free when released but starting to bind on the first click of the handbrake lever ratchet.
Don't forget to check that the brakes work and that the fluid level is OK before you drive off.
Procedure for bedding in varies according to who you listen to.
I prefer to bed them in by driving at about 30mph and gently applying the bakes for a second or so at about five second intervals until the pedal starts to feel right, but don't get them too hot.
Others may disagree with this but its always worked for me and I don't have squeaky brakes
Hope this is helpful, sounds worse than it is!
They are Ford pads, but there seem to be several different types. I took mine out and down to the local motor factor who was able to match them and I got Ferodo or Mintex pads cheaper than Halfords.
The front ones are easy to remove and replace. I always do one side at a time, pumping the brake pedal after doing each wheel in order not to displace too much fluid out the top of the reservoir. Put some rag around that anyway to catch any fluid, paint doesn't like brake fluid!
The rear ones are a little more difficult.
Release the handbrake. Reach in front of the O/S/R wheel and slacken the adjuster on the handbrake cable, not easy but not too bad.
Remove the two bolts holding the top of the caliper and lift it off, remove the pads.
You will need a brake piston wind back tool (I got mine in Halfords). I have never needed on before but my attempts to push the pistons back on the Chim were in vain without it. Not expensive though.
Fit the pads coating the backs with Copper grease, again work one side at a time and pumping the brake afterwards.
Tighten up the handbrake cable so that the wheels are free when released but starting to bind on the first click of the handbrake lever ratchet.
Don't forget to check that the brakes work and that the fluid level is OK before you drive off.
Procedure for bedding in varies according to who you listen to.
I prefer to bed them in by driving at about 30mph and gently applying the bakes for a second or so at about five second intervals until the pedal starts to feel right, but don't get them too hot.
Others may disagree with this but its always worked for me and I don't have squeaky brakes
Hope this is helpful, sounds worse than it is!
I always open the bleed valve (with a tube on -> collector) when winding back the pistons. I prefer to eject the fluid thats been sat in the caliper, since this is the bit that gets boiled / contaminated next to the seals and hot bits. It also is the path of least resistance when pushing th episton back and there is no chance of the reservoir overflowing.
Dave
Dave
chasod69 said:
I can't seem to find 'motor factor' anywhere though. Is it a chain?
'Motor Factor' is a generic term like 'Grocery Shop' have a look under Car Parts & Accessories in your local Yellow Pages.
My Local motor factors
The golden rule though where ever you buy from.....take the old ones with you, if you don't the the chances of coming home with the right ones are about 1/100
The last ones I changed were apparently Ford Sierra 2.2 Diesel pads
Partco is I believe, a national motor factor, but there will be many in your area.
These are the people who supply garages, so the prices are generally a lot lower than halfords or your local car accessory shop.Try good old Yellow pages.
Do ask what make of pads they will supply you and don't be fobbed off with different make ones for the front/rear.
If you are in any doubt about the make then come back on here and ask.
Some makes that are generally considered to be good quality are;
Mintex
Ferodo
Jurid
Pagid
EBC
But there are others that are good, they're just the ones that spring to mind
These are the people who supply garages, so the prices are generally a lot lower than halfords or your local car accessory shop.Try good old Yellow pages.
Do ask what make of pads they will supply you and don't be fobbed off with different make ones for the front/rear.
If you are in any doubt about the make then come back on here and ask.
Some makes that are generally considered to be good quality are;
Mintex
Ferodo
Jurid
Pagid
EBC
But there are others that are good, they're just the ones that spring to mind
spend said:
I always open the bleed valve (with a tube on -> collector) when winding back the pistons. I prefer to eject the fluid thats been sat in the caliper, since this is the bit that gets boiled / contaminated next to the seals and hot bits. It also is the path of least resistance when pushing th episton back and there is no chance of the reservoir overflowing.
Dave
Dave
Good tip as long as you don't suffer with seized nipples, nasty in this weather!
And also know what you're doing with the tube relative to the spanner
1. Do a search on here for Mintex / Ferrodo
2. Make up your mind which pads to try.
3. Let your fingers do the walking (quotes will vary / availability of the possible alts will vary)
4. Have a beer, get pads off go to rearranged purveyor & match up.
Peace of Pee, but you will probably acsertain most of this just bt doing 1).
Dave
2. Make up your mind which pads to try.
3. Let your fingers do the walking (quotes will vary / availability of the possible alts will vary)
4. Have a beer, get pads off go to rearranged purveyor & match up.
Peace of Pee, but you will probably acsertain most of this just bt doing 1).
Dave
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