Discussion
I did it when I was getting the dash reveneered anyway, which is half the battle. It would be next to impossible to get the necessary holes without damaging the surrounding veneer otherwise. I used a hole punch to push the holes out.
Standard Griff voltmeter, the oil temp gauge is a standard water temp gauge sent back to Caerbont to have an oil can logo added! Wiring the voltmeter was a doddle. For the oil temp I ran a new wire through the bulkhead and down to the sump plug for the sender - a standard water temp sender tapped into a spare sump plug. Some of the dash "brackets" had to be moved to give room for the gauges, no biggie, they're just lumps of wood glued inside the dash top (no kidding). You need to be careful about the positioning, the voltmeter on mine is very close to the dash top when its together.
I also drilled out the LED holes on mine to take the later cars alloy surround ones at the same time.
Standard Griff voltmeter, the oil temp gauge is a standard water temp gauge sent back to Caerbont to have an oil can logo added! Wiring the voltmeter was a doddle. For the oil temp I ran a new wire through the bulkhead and down to the sump plug for the sender - a standard water temp sender tapped into a spare sump plug. Some of the dash "brackets" had to be moved to give room for the gauges, no biggie, they're just lumps of wood glued inside the dash top (no kidding). You need to be careful about the positioning, the voltmeter on mine is very close to the dash top when its together.
I also drilled out the LED holes on mine to take the later cars alloy surround ones at the same time.
The previous discussion was:
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&t=345999&r=4682211&hm=24527#4682211
Once the volt/am meter question was resolved IIRC.
Dave
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&t=345999&r=4682211&hm=24527#4682211
Once the volt/am meter question was resolved IIRC.
Dave
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