Tracking settings
Discussion
Took my car into the only local 4 wheel laser alignment place that isn't a cowboy operation, and they don't have the TVR specs on their system, although they said they can do it manually if I can provide them with the specs. Can anyone point me in the direction of where I could find the necessary data? Cheers
Not having a great day, that was the second annoyance, the first being that the rear screen split when I tried to put the roof down this morning
Not having a great day, that was the second annoyance, the first being that the rear screen split when I tried to put the roof down this morning
There has been a lot of discussion here on these subjects. :gasp:
You need to work out what you want to be set, TVR et al rec a range of settings, within those limits select the ideal you want & stick that in as the target to work to. Keep an idea of the tolerances that are acceptable, so you can ensure that the set up is done within spec & to your personal preferences. I would also advise that you free & lube the adjusters (especially the rear toe) before the tyre chaps get their spanners on it ~ it may keep them onside as well
eg:
FCamber 1.2 deg
FToe in 9min ( each wheel, as equal as possible + ensure rack is centred [wheel can be done later imo] )
RCamber 1.2 deg
RToe in 5min ( each wheel, as equal as possible)
I used this factory data as a basis(there are others, this is for 16" wheels all round):
Front & rear camber 0.75 to 1.25deg negative, as equal as possible side to side
Front tracking (toe) 10 to 20 minutes TOTAL ACROSS AXLE (5 to 10 minutes each wheel)
Rear tracking (toe) 4 to 6 minutes EACH WHEEL (as equal as possible side to side)
Front castor 4.75 to 5.25deg Positive (more important that each side is within 0.5 of the other)
NOTE: As the front and rear wheel alignment are adjustable independently, but only the front wheels are connected to each other (by the rack) it is important that the pair of rear wheels are aligned to the nominal centreline of the car and not just to each other. This will likely be shown on the laser as 'Thrust angle/line'. The castor is not usually adjusted, the spacer at the upper ball joint is simply to ensure adequate clearance at the full extents of negative camber adjustment.
These are not settings I use, but I'd guess would be reasonable starting point, there are lots of opinions... Do set your ride heights first if you have adjustable dampers / springs. Then just camber then track, make sure they settle the car occasionally.
Dave
You need to work out what you want to be set, TVR et al rec a range of settings, within those limits select the ideal you want & stick that in as the target to work to. Keep an idea of the tolerances that are acceptable, so you can ensure that the set up is done within spec & to your personal preferences. I would also advise that you free & lube the adjusters (especially the rear toe) before the tyre chaps get their spanners on it ~ it may keep them onside as well
eg:
FCamber 1.2 deg
FToe in 9min ( each wheel, as equal as possible + ensure rack is centred [wheel can be done later imo] )
RCamber 1.2 deg
RToe in 5min ( each wheel, as equal as possible)
I used this factory data as a basis(there are others, this is for 16" wheels all round):
Front & rear camber 0.75 to 1.25deg negative, as equal as possible side to side
Front tracking (toe) 10 to 20 minutes TOTAL ACROSS AXLE (5 to 10 minutes each wheel)
Rear tracking (toe) 4 to 6 minutes EACH WHEEL (as equal as possible side to side)
Front castor 4.75 to 5.25deg Positive (more important that each side is within 0.5 of the other)
NOTE: As the front and rear wheel alignment are adjustable independently, but only the front wheels are connected to each other (by the rack) it is important that the pair of rear wheels are aligned to the nominal centreline of the car and not just to each other. This will likely be shown on the laser as 'Thrust angle/line'. The castor is not usually adjusted, the spacer at the upper ball joint is simply to ensure adequate clearance at the full extents of negative camber adjustment.
These are not settings I use, but I'd guess would be reasonable starting point, there are lots of opinions... Do set your ride heights first if you have adjustable dampers / springs. Then just camber then track, make sure they settle the car occasionally.
Dave
Fell free to disagree, at least I gave him some data to start with!
-JUT- I have in my history file a original fax form the factory in 96' for the settings.
From the horses mouth , so to speak. ( whoever did mine did it right as it tracks a straight as a die and has even tyre ware on every corner.). Oh and its for sale is you want to buy it www.pistonheads.com/sales/134127.htm !.
From the horses mouth , so to speak. ( whoever did mine did it right as it tracks a straight as a die and has even tyre ware on every corner.). Oh and its for sale is you want to buy it www.pistonheads.com/sales/134127.htm !.
Edited by Rum Runner on Friday 16th February 01:21
Interesting isn't it, I do note that Neil suggested more rear camber for fast corners and that does show that geometry does have to be tailored to the way you drive.
The factory did employ a suspension expert last year to check on most models and issued a new technical update suggesting less toe on the front and more on the rear together with more rear camber was the way forward.
This is in keeping with the way I set up cars for general all year use but for those who do track days and drive the cars like they stole them, a more agressive set-up with sharper turn in might be preferable, so I suggest that before you decide on your own personal settings that you discuss your requirements with your local friendly suspension expert.
The factory did employ a suspension expert last year to check on most models and issued a new technical update suggesting less toe on the front and more on the rear together with more rear camber was the way forward.
This is in keeping with the way I set up cars for general all year use but for those who do track days and drive the cars like they stole them, a more agressive set-up with sharper turn in might be preferable, so I suggest that before you decide on your own personal settings that you discuss your requirements with your local friendly suspension expert.
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