Refitting rear perspex covers
Discussion
I'm planning to remove the perspex rear light covers on my '98 Chim, as they could do with a clean inside and a re-seal. I know that they are attached with silkaflex, but have read somewhere that an outer band of about 10mm is usually painted black to give an even look (i.e. the bit that the silkaflex sticks to) ... however I've looked quite closely at mine and they dont seem to have it - can anyone confirm that I should do this?
Any other tips? If it's anything like silicon sealing a bath then I'm not looking forward to it!
Any other tips? If it's anything like silicon sealing a bath then I'm not looking forward to it!
Just be very careful putting the Silkaflex on - the number of times I got the lenses cleaned up, sealant on and ready and stuck the lense on only to find a bead of sealant hanging down in the light or a mark on the inside. Had to then re-strip, re-clean and start again. Very annoying!, Also ensure you mask the bodywork up properly (best before taking the lense off, as this will help ensure a neat edge to the sealant between the lense and body.
Cider Andy said:
Have you considered removing the lamp clusters from within the boot and cleaning from the inside? That way you wouldn't be able to mess up the look from the outside.
I think that only works on the earlier models with the Ford lights, not the facelift afterburner style. The current silkaflex also isnt sealing properly, so should probably do the full job.
Be very careful removing the lense cover. I had the same problem with dirt inside the units but managed to snap one of the lenses during removal.
The replacement piece of perspex (£40+VAT) didn't fit and I spent hours sanding it to lie flush.
It also didn't have the painted rim so I had to get my tin of humbrol out...
I'm so much happier with it now it's all clean though.
Good luck.
The replacement piece of perspex (£40+VAT) didn't fit and I spent hours sanding it to lie flush.
It also didn't have the painted rim so I had to get my tin of humbrol out...
I'm so much happier with it now it's all clean though.
Good luck.
I wouldn't advise removing the perspex in this weather as you'll only need to break wind and the damn thing will shatter as it will be very brittle in the cold.
Warm them up first with the wifes hair dryer then use a good sharp scalpel and go round the sikaflex carefully without putting any pressure on the perspex and the lens should come off fairly easy.
Cheers
Paul.
Warm them up first with the wifes hair dryer then use a good sharp scalpel and go round the sikaflex carefully without putting any pressure on the perspex and the lens should come off fairly easy.
Cheers
Paul.
PD_400 said:
Does nayone know where you can get new covers for a 93 chimera, one of mine has fallen off and the dealer near me doesn't know when they'll get any in stock again
If they are the same as the Cerb, which I think they are, Henley TVR may have some for the near side, every time they ordered my offside one, they got a nearside unit, give Richard a call. I belive they all have to be ground down to fit.
nig-gtv said:
Cheers guys. What width should the painted rim be? Was thinking about 8mm?
Do not paint it, use Sikaflex. I painted one and it fell off on the track at Cadwell and some one found it! It was scratched so of no use.
What you do is
1.Put masking tape about 15mm from the edge all the way round. It is quite easy to get the tape to look good and go round the bends.
2. When you are ready, run a bead of Sikaflex around the 15mm edge. Then use a spatula to smooth the Sikaflex out to cover the area. Since you will still have it in your hand you can check from the other side to ensure it is all covered.
3. When removing the masking tape pull it over the top of the sikaflex so it keeps the neat line.
4. You are ready to bead the car and fit it.
5. Keep a supply of small rags for wiping.
Have a look at Clever Trevor's website, both sides are listed there.
Good tip Softtop -I used Silkaflex to create the border instead of paint - from the outside looks like it is painted as per the factory. I realised that mine did have the paint border but it had largely flaked off.
As a slight variation (might help anyone else planning ths) I used Fine Line Tape (can be bought from places selling paint/bodywork supplies) - this is designed to stretch round corners etc so is easier than masking tape to get to the right shape. It is also thinner than masking tape so gives a very sharp line. I cleaned the covers, taped up the inside, smeared the silkaflex on, and left to dry overnight. Yesterday I cleaned up the car, polished the paintwork between the afterburner lights, used the fine line tape to very carefully mask the edge of the bodywork, masked the front of the perspex covers, and applied a bead of silkaflex to the car. Took a long times to get everything prepared but it meant that the silkaflexing went very well - really pleased as it is a perfect result, looks like new!
As a slight variation (might help anyone else planning ths) I used Fine Line Tape (can be bought from places selling paint/bodywork supplies) - this is designed to stretch round corners etc so is easier than masking tape to get to the right shape. It is also thinner than masking tape so gives a very sharp line. I cleaned the covers, taped up the inside, smeared the silkaflex on, and left to dry overnight. Yesterday I cleaned up the car, polished the paintwork between the afterburner lights, used the fine line tape to very carefully mask the edge of the bodywork, masked the front of the perspex covers, and applied a bead of silkaflex to the car. Took a long times to get everything prepared but it meant that the silkaflexing went very well - really pleased as it is a perfect result, looks like new!
if the original mastic is unbroken just lost its grip(like mine had,nearly lost lense)you can gently peel off lense by tipping one corner then pulling away(less chance of breakage)use a small bead of black silicone on original mastic(clean lense and old mastic with lighter fuel 1st)about 5mm is fine,then secure lense with masking tape for 24hrs until silicone cures,i did this as a temporary repair, i still check them by flicking edges, their going nowhere,seems like a bodge way of doing it but beleive me i have no problems with alignment or mastic seep,they look as the factory intended for about 30 minutes work,may be of use for those that are a bit nervous starting from scratch(i was just lazy)
Oh thats regular bath silicone y the way,anyone who as used this stuff knows its a good bond(clean is essential)
Oh thats regular bath silicone y the way,anyone who as used this stuff knows its a good bond(clean is essential)
Edited by That Daddy on Sunday 11th March 09:48
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