Painting exhaust headers.
Discussion
I used heat proof black exhaust paint...sprayed it on...let it dry...drove a few miles and watched the smoke come out from under the bonnet...lifted the bonnet and thought that "was time i could have spent doing something worthwhile!!!"
It eventuall burnt the paint off right up to the Y section.
It eventuall burnt the paint off right up to the Y section.
I used it on my old headers (bikes and the Griff); VHT it was. Used to be made by Sperex but can't remember who produces it now. Won't burn off but most of the type for this application are quite pourous so won't offer much in the way of corrosion prevention. Also, it can be brought off with any kind of solvent, even oils.
The last owner of my Chim had painted the exhaust in the engine bay and made a right mess of it. I spent hours cleaning it up, sanding and prep'ing befor I re-painted mine. Unfortunately I used Halfords silver exhaust paint, looked good for a few months, smelly for the first few drives, already peeling 6 months later.
Thinking of powder coating but it means removing the headders, big job, and expensive.
Thinking of powder coating but it means removing the headders, big job, and expensive.
Roberto Rica said:
Demon Tweeks do the best manifold paint - it's called something like Black Satin, I think. The only one I found that stuck the heat of TVR manifolds.
Rob
Rob
Yes thanks Roberto,just found this paint and while my manifolds are off for decatting,im sandblasting them ready for that paint,trouble is i have a couple of loose bits of paint on the top chassis tubes so i am doing these too,always something extra to do,oh hum.
Hi
Yes it's essential to have the manifolds blasted clean first. Another tip is not to overpaint the manifolds - two light coats only. The temptation is to put plenty of paint on - don't - if you put too much on it'll peel - that black heat paint comes in a very small tin anyway so two coats almost uses it all anyway.
Rob
Yes it's essential to have the manifolds blasted clean first. Another tip is not to overpaint the manifolds - two light coats only. The temptation is to put plenty of paint on - don't - if you put too much on it'll peel - that black heat paint comes in a very small tin anyway so two coats almost uses it all anyway.
Rob
If you're sandblast then maybe give either of the following a try:
They're £30-£35 from Demon Tweeks, and are the same products that Camcoat use when ceramic coating headers. The Ceramakrome needs baking in your oven after application and is does stink a bit. The satin black needs no baking.
I would only suggest using these to anyone who is properly prepping though (blasting), otherwise it's a waste of time and money. It's all in the prep.
Should have read the whole thread, I see Black Satin has already been suggested
They're £30-£35 from Demon Tweeks, and are the same products that Camcoat use when ceramic coating headers. The Ceramakrome needs baking in your oven after application and is does stink a bit. The satin black needs no baking.
I would only suggest using these to anyone who is properly prepping though (blasting), otherwise it's a waste of time and money. It's all in the prep.
Should have read the whole thread, I see Black Satin has already been suggested
Edited by David H on Saturday 10th February 12:40
Yeah David H that's it, Tech Line Black Satin, there's enough to do the Y-piece as well as the manifolds - not cheap but the best never is, is it?
If you're doing precat manifolds and Y-piece they look great set off with nice shiny S/S bolts and nuts.
Rob
If you're doing precat manifolds and Y-piece they look great set off with nice shiny S/S bolts and nuts.
Rob
Edited by Roberto Rica on Saturday 10th February 14:38
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