Slow Electric Windows!
Discussion
How much of a pain is it really to do this? I have one of the felts in a runner loose causing the glass to smack when I shut the door, I've been putting the job off for ages because I have heard such horror stories of people trying to get the door trim panels off Rich...
Elwood said:The downside is removing the door trim to get to the runners.
The old practice of sending small kids into the door via the speaker hole was recently outlawed by the EU. This was the best way as access is very difficult.
s a result, adults have to do this with the appropriate level of pain anguish and despair.
It is worth depositing some grafts at the skin bank for the restorative surgery afterwards ...
Steve
s a result, adults have to do this with the appropriate level of pain anguish and despair.
It is worth depositing some grafts at the skin bank for the restorative surgery afterwards ...
Steve
worst bit is when you've managed to get your arm into the door, but then as you start to exercise and get stressed, your arm muscles get pumped up and you can no longer extract pull your arm back out.
Advice needed: The passenger window doesn't come up parallel to the roof seal and thus leaves a slight gap at the front. I believe there is a screw adjustment somewhere near the top of the door that can be found behind the brush seal thingy. I can't find it. I can see anything past the brush wotsit. Any clues??
Advice needed: The passenger window doesn't come up parallel to the roof seal and thus leaves a slight gap at the front. I believe there is a screw adjustment somewhere near the top of the door that can be found behind the brush seal thingy. I can't find it. I can see anything past the brush wotsit. Any clues??
RichB said:How much of a pain is it really to do this? I have one of the felts in a runner loose causing the glass to smack when I shut the door, I've been putting the job off for ages because I have heard such horror stories of people trying to get the door trim panels off Rich...
Elwood said:The downside is removing the door trim to get to the runners.
Ok it's not that pleasant but you can do it! This was my fear before I attempted it, now I've done it I can see my main fear was that of the unknown - exactly how hard and difficult would it be. Try it, in the worst case scenario you just quit half way and either ask us lot for help, or take it to a specialist! Have a go!
Chris
Removed my 98 chim's driver door interior last weekend, based upon version 1 of the bible. Was quite easy to both remove and replace, with a caveat or two...
I think the bible I have was released before my car was built, and not everything matched. I have 4 bolts in the door, not 3: in front of the speaker and at the three points where the door "pockets" meet the door. They're quite solid and easy to tell from everything else inside the door just by touch.
My ash tray just pulled out - there was no retaining screw as I thought the bible claimed. However, there is a screw *behind* the ash tray that holds the leather-ish bit to the door. That might have been what the bible meant anyway, but I'm not sure.
Space is quite tight inside the door, so using a pair of pliers to loosen the all the bolts seemed too difficult. However, a 9? or 10? mm adapter (can't remember which) from a socket set was ideal when used by itself (i.e. forget the rest of the socket set, just use the adapter by hand).
The bolt nearest the window motor (first one back from speaker hole) is an arse. You nearly have to break your wrist to get at it, there's not enough room between the end of the bolt and what I assume is a window support to get the socket adapter in, and mine was done up too tight to manage by hand. After a little frustration I managed to use some pliers to loosen it enough to undo by hand.
If you drop a nut, you're in trouble. Don't drop a nut. If you must drop it, try to drop it towards the inside of the door. The outer side seems to contain a bottomless pit from which I doubt any nut would ever return.
There are washers on each of the bolts, and they were different sizes on my door. Probably a good idea to keep them in order.
You'll need thin arms and supple joints, but it's quite fun in a twisted sort of way :-)
When I said easy, I meant that there wasn't anything complicated about it. There isn't a "point of no return", either, so you can always give up if you can't manage it. After all, if you can get the nut off, you should be able to put it back on.
Oh, and don't try to find the screws that hold the carpet section in place before you start. I did, and was worried that I'd never find them. Turns out they're hidden behind the top section of the leather bit...
I think the bible I have was released before my car was built, and not everything matched. I have 4 bolts in the door, not 3: in front of the speaker and at the three points where the door "pockets" meet the door. They're quite solid and easy to tell from everything else inside the door just by touch.
My ash tray just pulled out - there was no retaining screw as I thought the bible claimed. However, there is a screw *behind* the ash tray that holds the leather-ish bit to the door. That might have been what the bible meant anyway, but I'm not sure.
Space is quite tight inside the door, so using a pair of pliers to loosen the all the bolts seemed too difficult. However, a 9? or 10? mm adapter (can't remember which) from a socket set was ideal when used by itself (i.e. forget the rest of the socket set, just use the adapter by hand).
The bolt nearest the window motor (first one back from speaker hole) is an arse. You nearly have to break your wrist to get at it, there's not enough room between the end of the bolt and what I assume is a window support to get the socket adapter in, and mine was done up too tight to manage by hand. After a little frustration I managed to use some pliers to loosen it enough to undo by hand.
If you drop a nut, you're in trouble. Don't drop a nut. If you must drop it, try to drop it towards the inside of the door. The outer side seems to contain a bottomless pit from which I doubt any nut would ever return.
There are washers on each of the bolts, and they were different sizes on my door. Probably a good idea to keep them in order.
You'll need thin arms and supple joints, but it's quite fun in a twisted sort of way :-)
When I said easy, I meant that there wasn't anything complicated about it. There isn't a "point of no return", either, so you can always give up if you can't manage it. After all, if you can get the nut off, you should be able to put it back on.
Oh, and don't try to find the screws that hold the carpet section in place before you start. I did, and was worried that I'd never find them. Turns out they're hidden behind the top section of the leather bit...
Come on everyone, tell him it's easy, we'll have a good laugh waiting for us when open up PH on Tuesday morning
RichB said:How much of a pain is it really to do this?
Elwood said:The downside is removing the door trim to get to the runners.
Funniest thing I've read for ages Is it hard
One of the first jobs I did on my chim (which I bought at the beginning of March) was to check out the mirror and winder mechanism. The door trim had to come off, I read the bit in the bible on this activity... took on board the advice and enlisted the help of my 12 year old daughter Sam. She recovered 6 washers,4 nuts and 2 small ring spanners!!!
The weight saving has increased the 0-60 time and I should make an healthy profit when the car boot season gets underway!!!
p.s. must get her to do the otherside as it looks a bit lopsided now.
p.p.s.we are only too aware of the fact that Sam's self-employment potential in this highly lucrative area has a limited shelf life!!!
The weight saving has increased the 0-60 time and I should make an healthy profit when the car boot season gets underway!!!
p.s. must get her to do the otherside as it looks a bit lopsided now.
p.p.s.we are only too aware of the fact that Sam's self-employment potential in this highly lucrative area has a limited shelf life!!!
Is thier any mods to give the electric windows a boost, mine are slow and all the cars i have seen have been the same, any advice would be apreciated.
I've had a similar problem, and having just spent 30 minutes sorting it... here's what I did on the S!
1) Buy some silicone grease / lubricant - Halfords for around a fiver (in a yellow spray can).
2) Spray the rubbers on the outside and inside of the windows... and any other rubbers that the window touches when opening or closing.
3) wind (push the button) the window all the way down. At the end nearest the handle, look down INTO the door. Spray the stuff down the channel that the window goes into... I used some extra tubing to get ALL of the runner.
4) Spray the INSIDE rubber on the ally door frame bit
5) Mop up the excess and revel in the joy that your windows are as smooth as the proverbial infants arse!
6) Lock the car up, and go and have a beer with the lads / take it out for a spin.
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