Oil pressure on Chim 500
Discussion
cerbielee said:
Hi can anyone tell me what pressure the gauge should read at idle? this one i looked at today was 15 psi after a good blast so oil was hot!
Also has anyone any pics of the outriggers? and how they should look?
Cheers Fellas
Lee
Also has anyone any pics of the outriggers? and how they should look?
Cheers Fellas
Lee
Mine runs at 35.
As for outriggers to vauge a question but they should be solid with no severe rust.
Expect some rust and check if it has been waxoyled which is a good sign.
I have some photos before and after i used hammerite on them and mines a 96 car.
Cheers
V8 Animal
Mine never drops below 30psi, is limited to 50psi by relief spring when cold. Brand of oil makes massive difference in my own experience, but beware gauges also vary / unreliable. It is not realistic to compare cars like4like from the oil pressure gauge 
Serp / pre-serp oil pump varies - newer is generally lower pressure I believe.
Dave
Serp / pre-serp oil pump varies - newer is generally lower pressure I believe.
Dave
The real problem here is that there are so many variables. The pressure gauge system, i.e sender unit and gauge are notoriously inaccurate, I calibrated mine against a "wet gauge" so i could be more confident of the readings but that is a long and involved job.
The first issue is whether you have the earlier gear type pump or the later crank driven one in the serpentine front end engines, the latter having considerably more capacity and tends to maintain higher pressures especially at high temps. The type and viscosity range of the oil you are using makes a significant difference to oil pressures. Temperature obviously has a big effect too.
Consequently it is impossible to judge the actual condition of an engine in terms of component wear on the basis of the oil pressure reading alone.
As was mentioned it is more about flow than absolute pressures but as a guide my 450 serpentine at 27000 miles with calibrated oil pressure gauge filled with Mobil 1 Motorsport 15w 50 fully synthetic oil would produce an idle oil pressure of 60PSI cold dropping to just under 30 when fully hot, and 65 and 55 respectively at 3000rpm. Interestingly having just rebuilt the engine but using a different brand of fully synthetic 15w 50 I am seing 60 PSI cold but dropping to 15-20 on hot idle and 45 at 3000rpm hot. I am putting this down to the change of oil but I am suspicious that the gauge may have come out of calibration after standing for 10 months. I will need to get the wet gauge out again!
The first issue is whether you have the earlier gear type pump or the later crank driven one in the serpentine front end engines, the latter having considerably more capacity and tends to maintain higher pressures especially at high temps. The type and viscosity range of the oil you are using makes a significant difference to oil pressures. Temperature obviously has a big effect too.
Consequently it is impossible to judge the actual condition of an engine in terms of component wear on the basis of the oil pressure reading alone.
As was mentioned it is more about flow than absolute pressures but as a guide my 450 serpentine at 27000 miles with calibrated oil pressure gauge filled with Mobil 1 Motorsport 15w 50 fully synthetic oil would produce an idle oil pressure of 60PSI cold dropping to just under 30 when fully hot, and 65 and 55 respectively at 3000rpm. Interestingly having just rebuilt the engine but using a different brand of fully synthetic 15w 50 I am seing 60 PSI cold but dropping to 15-20 on hot idle and 45 at 3000rpm hot. I am putting this down to the change of oil but I am suspicious that the gauge may have come out of calibration after standing for 10 months. I will need to get the wet gauge out again!
Mmmm? seems like the oil pressure could be fine then? so i just need to find out about the out riggers now? the rest of the car seems to be spotless, very clean well cared for car that has masses of history and mostly from the TVR Centre. as its done 64k will the cam need replacing soon?
Thanks again fellas!
Lee
Thanks again fellas!
Lee
cerbielee said:
.......... as its done 64k will the cam need replacing soon?
Thanks again fellas!
Lee
Thanks again fellas!
Lee
Quite possibly but very difficult to predict. I stripped the top end of mine at 27000 miles, having had FTVRSH when i bought it at 12000 miles and since then using only high quality fully synthetic oil, regularly changed etc, yet when i checked my cam ONE lobe (No 3 exhaust) had lost about 1mm the rest were fine, how frustrating is that. Also the rocker shafts were showing significat wear as is typical (I am now using tuftrided rocker shafts and steel rockers). This is what prompted me to do the full rebuild and mods, since i was going to have to change the cam etc anyway. Oh and also, despite the low mileage, the duplex chain on the vernier timing set was very stretched and had to be replaced. So in short all the recognised weak spots on the RV8, it is very difficult to tell what is going on inside without physically inspecting it regarless of the level of mainatinance.
Lee - have you spoken to them at The TVR Centre? If they had dealings with the car they should be able to tell you how things are - or were, when they last saw it. Martin there is a great bloke (and one of the two new owners) - give him a call if you haven't already. They should be pleased to answer whatever questions you have.
Nick.
Nick.
nikman said:
Lee - have you spoken to them at The TVR Centre? If they had dealings with the car they should be able to tell you how things are - or were, when they last saw it. Martin there is a great bloke (and one of the two new owners) - give him a call if you haven't already. They should be pleased to answer whatever questions you have.
Nick.
Nick.
That was next on my list of things to do today but bloke wouldnt reply to me when i asked for the reg no. supposed to be picking it up in the morning! Deals off now.
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