HEEELP!! Wiring knightmare and my car won't start!!!
HEEELP!! Wiring knightmare and my car won't start!!!
Author
Discussion

shuntridge

Original Poster:

24 posts

234 months

Saturday 5th May 2007
quotequote all
I have a 1994 Chimaera that has been accident damaged and the previous owner has ripped out the radio and in the process puled out a load of other wires!!!

There is a light grey alarm / immobiliser box that had a green wore going to the door lock and some other wires that have been cut off.

The car WILL NOT START, it turns over with a spark but no fuel pump / injectors are making any noises?????? I have put i direct live to the pump and it still will not fire up.

Does anyone have any idea how to either get rid of this immobiler type thing, any pictures of it wired up so i can figure out how to put it back on or any ideas on how the heck to get it going??

I only have a key with the car, no fob or anything. Does the mk1 come with an alarm fob??

I will be VERY GRATEFULL for any help on this as i want my baby to run!!!

Cheers

Simon.

GreenV8S

31,024 posts

314 months

Saturday 5th May 2007
quotequote all
Sounds like you are missing permanent or ignition switched live to the ECU. Find the ECU in the passenger's footwell, follow the loom back and you will find that there are only a handful of connections to the main vehicle loom. Presumably one of these has been chopped.

shuntridge

Original Poster:

24 posts

234 months

Saturday 5th May 2007
quotequote all
Cheers for that. Would be great if anyone has a picture of the grey immobiliser box thing so i can see the wores??

Thanks

Cider Andy

1,889 posts

255 months

Saturday 5th May 2007
quotequote all
With respect, you might struggle finding people to give details of the immobiliser systems on an open forum to someone who has only put up five posts and been a member for a month.

Best bet is to talk to a dealer about it.

shuntridge

Original Poster:

24 posts

234 months

Saturday 5th May 2007
quotequote all
The car has no bloomin' front end on it and it certainly mine and no one else if that is what your incinuating!!! Just a genuine question for genuine TVR people to help me with.

I am more than anything looking for a wiring diagram, not how to hotwire a car.

shuntridge

Original Poster:

24 posts

234 months

Saturday 5th May 2007
quotequote all
This is a couple of pics of my rather broken car. Especially for those who wonder what it looks like.





You can slo email me any diagrams / pictures to me at si@crazybikes.co.uk

paulathome

686 posts

248 months

Saturday 5th May 2007
quotequote all
Simon,
Seeing that the car has been in a front end shunt, have you checked the cut off switch under the dash on the passenger side. Undo the 2 screws that hold the glove pocket up and behind it you should see a black plastic switch with a red button at the front. Press the red button back in and see if the car starts.
Don't get too het up about people not wanting to give details of car alarm wiring, as Andy says it might be better to take it to your local dealer.
Cheers
Paul.

shuntridge

Original Poster:

24 posts

234 months

Saturday 5th May 2007
quotequote all
Thanks for the advice. Did not mean to have a pop at Andy but i can see where he is coming from.

I will try the fuel cut off switch, would make sense!!

Thanks ever so much and i hope it starts.

Simon.

GreenV8S

31,024 posts

314 months

Saturday 5th May 2007
quotequote all
If you have put direct live to the pump with no life then either the pump is dead or the pump earth is bad. You need to fix that before you go any further. Hotwiring the pump like this is a good idea at this stage because it rules out a whole host of temperamental wiring, relays, fuses etc.

spend

12,581 posts

281 months

Saturday 5th May 2007
quotequote all
I have a similar car in Chesterfield, but I would point out yours looks like it has been subject to some mods.. I have a fair few wiring diags - which may or may not help you.

You will need to unlink the immobilizer, but for now as Peter said ~ first check is for ign power at ECU - the ecu fuses & relays.

PM if you want I can try & answer your questions, but I have an aftermarket alarm/immob grafted onto the factory CDL/immob.

Dave

shuntridge

Original Poster:

24 posts

234 months

Sunday 6th May 2007
quotequote all
I think the scratch will polish out with some t-cut!!

Any wiring diagram will be great as at least i will be able to look to see what is right as at the moment i cant tell what is factory and what has been added.

The engine turns over, sparks but no fuel / injectors clicking. Hope it is just the fuel cut out switch.

spend

12,581 posts

281 months

Sunday 6th May 2007
quotequote all
You have checked the flying fuses & relays for/with the ECU? The Ecu & coil are on the same fuseboard fuse IIRC (in the v. early model).

Dave

shuntridge

Original Poster:

24 posts

234 months

Tuesday 8th May 2007
quotequote all
IT RUNS!!!!!!!

Thanks to all, it was just the fuel cut of switch. I would never have found this unless i had been told abnout it so THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!

She sounds like a right beast and i just cant wait to go and have a go in her now. Lets hope we get some nice weather.

spend

12,581 posts

281 months

Tuesday 8th May 2007
quotequote all
shuntridge said:
IT RUNS!!!!!!!

Thanks to all, it was just the fuel cut of switch. I would never have found this unless i had been told abnout it so THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!

She sounds like a right beast and i just cant wait to go and have a go in her now. Lets hope we get some nice weather.

Have you told your mate tho? or are you going to leave him sweating? hehe 200hp or 1manpower

FFS check the oil & coolant (heads cost a lot & wont last long without cool water...)
Dave

nikman

878 posts

235 months

Tuesday 8th May 2007
quotequote all
Well done!! Not sure about a '94 car but certainly on later ones, there's an inertia warning light on the dash that lights for about 3 seconds each time the ignition is switched on telling you the fuel pump shut-off inertia switch is popped like yours was. This dash light is intriugingly marked 'MIL'

Dave's right - for gawds sake check the fluid levels - I'd be amazed that the rad was still intact with the front looking like that. Great looking wheels by the way!

Oh, and if there is fluid in the cooling system, I'd suggest fixing up the lights and do and driving you have planned, after official sunset has taken place. I would say nice darkness rather than nice weather is what you're looking for unless you want a free roadside vehicle inspection
Nick


Edited by nikman on Tuesday 8th May 23:34

Cider Andy

1,889 posts

255 months

Sunday 13th May 2007
quotequote all
nikman said:
Not sure about a '94 car but certainly on later ones, there's an inertia warning light on the dash that lights for about 3 seconds each time the ignition is switched on telling you the fuel pump shut-off inertia switch is popped like yours was. This dash light is intriugingly marked 'MIL'

This indicator is marked up wrongly. It should have an ' i ' symbol on it and it should be to the bottom left of the speedo. The injection ECU Malfunction Indicator Light should be marked 'MIL' and it should be to the bottom right of the rev counter.

nikman

878 posts

235 months

Sunday 13th May 2007
quotequote all
Cider Andy said:
nikman said:
Not sure about a '94 car but certainly on later ones, there's an inertia warning light on the dash that lights for about 3 seconds each time the ignition is switched on telling you the fuel pump shut-off inertia switch is popped like yours was. This dash light is intriugingly marked 'MIL'

This indicator is marked up wrongly. It should have an ' i ' symbol on it and it should be to the bottom left of the speedo. The injection ECU Malfunction Indicator Light should be marked 'MIL' and it should be to the bottom right of the rev counter.

I stand corrected! Andy's description is right.