Temp Gauge Failed
Discussion
Have just been on the Sussex/Surrey Crack of Sparrow Fart run and noticed that halfway through my temprature gauge died. Not reading anything. Pulled over and everything seemed fine under the bonnet, fans kicked in and no steam or anything so carried on.
Just consulted the bible and doesn't really say much about what it's connected to and where. Though I might not be looking in the right place.
Ideas on a post card to......
Cheers
Just consulted the bible and doesn't really say much about what it's connected to and where. Though I might not be looking in the right place.
Ideas on a post card to......
Cheers
The temperature sender for the guage is tucked behind the distributer at the front of the engine - difficult to get to with your hands/fingers but take a look to see if it's still connected. You should be able to get to it with a long shafted screwdriver but won't be able to do anything very useful with a screwdriver other than check if the cable is connected and possibly move the (single wire) connector back and forth to check a good connection. I'm told you'll need to remove the distributer(!)to get to it properly but others may know a better trick.
Althernatively, the PO may have moved the connection to the Land Rover connection on top of the engine (alongside a square plastic plug (which I believe is the temp sender for the ECU). In which case it's much easier to get to. An option, if it's the sender that is at fault, is to relocate the connector to the LR sender, but you'll need a new connector type and an inline resistor (search here for 'temperature' 'sender' and 'ohm' and you'll find a few discussions on this). I'm not sure how you can check if it's the sender or the guage without getting to the sender itself - perhaps others can comment. If you get to the sender connection you can check it with a multimeter - it should give a few hundred ohms when cold and a few thousnad when hot (according to the bible - check under the cooling section of the second edition).
HTH
Althernatively, the PO may have moved the connection to the Land Rover connection on top of the engine (alongside a square plastic plug (which I believe is the temp sender for the ECU). In which case it's much easier to get to. An option, if it's the sender that is at fault, is to relocate the connector to the LR sender, but you'll need a new connector type and an inline resistor (search here for 'temperature' 'sender' and 'ohm' and you'll find a few discussions on this). I'm not sure how you can check if it's the sender or the guage without getting to the sender itself - perhaps others can comment. If you get to the sender connection you can check it with a multimeter - it should give a few hundred ohms when cold and a few thousnad when hot (according to the bible - check under the cooling section of the second edition).
HTH
I had the same problem last week , ordered the sender and then thought , is it easier taking the Dizzy or coolant pipe off, so looked on the forum and found out about the conversion to landy sender with variable resistor. It works at treat i have noticed the car actually warms up a lot quicker in reality as the reading is more accurate as it is in the water flow.
Oh and its about 2 mins to fit
Oh and its about 2 mins to fit
Rum Runner said:
I had the same problem last week , ordered the sender and then thought , is it easier taking the Dizzy or coolant pipe off, so looked on the forum and found out about the conversion to landy sender with variable resistor. It works at treat i have noticed the car actually warms up a lot quicker in reality as the reading is more accurate as it is in the water flow.
Oh and its about 2 mins to fit
Oh and its about 2 mins to fit
Andy, can you confirm the rating of the variable resistor that you used and where you got it from? Oh, and what sort of connector you used to connect to the LR sender.
Thanks,
I used a fixed 200 ohm resistor and the gauge resistors 88 degrees moving i know this is probably overeading by about 4 degrees but it is rock stable this creeps to just over an indicated 92 in traffic,so long as i see a regular indicated reading i am happy that all is well(its amazing how quick the motor warms up in these cars,as can now be seen with this mod),i have checked with a temperature gun and yes seems the guage is over registering by about 6 degrees,my brothers car as the same mod and does the same thing,miles better than the erratic TVR sender
that had a mind of its own,i can highly recommend this mod you can use the variable jobby to fine trim the readings depends how fussy you are
that had a mind of its own,i can highly recommend this mod you can use the variable jobby to fine trim the readings depends how fussy you areThat Daddy said:
..miles better than the erratic TVR sender that had a mind of its own...
that had a mind of its own...I think that should read 'my'
just to add fuel to the fire: Apart from a cruddy spade (1p to replace) my TVR sensor has been fine. It is a little slow on warm up possibly, but is certainly in synch with temps when 70C is reached. Never analysed the serp engine this way, so might be a pre-serp v serp thing dunnow. I have seen RV8 folks who advise fitting sensor at rear of block in one of the taps BTW. It could also be argued that org sensor fluctuating is an indication of air - which is a positive warning in my book..
Dave
dell said:
can any one help me ?? my tuscan fans are not coming on at all tryed the two fuses on the under dash board,, but did not help,,,,,,,,, ? i can see that there are some yellows sq box fuses on the same dash board would the problem be here????? thanks
Try posting a question in the Tuscan forum?
Dave
Because when everything is as it should be i.e moving with penty of circulation and airflow the temp should be no lower than the opening temp of the stat thats what regulates the temp(it can be higher but that could be circulation problems, rad to small high engine speeds etc etc)and if you take that temp of yours with the TVR sender/gauge as gospel Spend than your not the guy i thought you were
That Daddy said:
Because when everything is as it should be i.e moving with penty of circulation and airflow the temp should be no lower than the opening temp of the stat thats what regulates the temp(it can be higher but that could be circulation problems, rad to small high engine speeds etc etc)and if you take that temp of yours with the TVR sender/gauge as gospel Spend than your not the guy i thought you were
Simon, I did'nt raise the subject of stats. Stat is not even perfect at controlling engine temp ~ never mind correlating it in anyway to gauge reading(apart from a quick rough check stat is working at idle..) TVR also fitted 74C stats if you have read your history. I am happy my gauge is fine with the org sender, I have a laser thermometer & I have used it extensively.
I'm just not sure that the mod is required on all cars, I reckon the early ETB & pre-serp cars are fine with the org setup (providing it is all in working order
). Dave
Dave, i also have a laser thermometer(bet its better than yours
)and of course the thermostat is not a precision part but it does have a big say on the running temp,the MOD i cant comment on the earlier pre serp cars(never had one)yes your right it may not work for everyone but it as worked on two 95 serps, i was just giving my cents worth,your happy with yours im happy with mine
)and of course the thermostat is not a precision part but it does have a big say on the running temp,the MOD i cant comment on the earlier pre serp cars(never had one)yes your right it may not work for everyone but it as worked on two 95 serps, i was just giving my cents worth,your happy with yours im happy with mine
peebee said:
Rum Runner said:
I had the same problem last week , ordered the sender and then thought , is it easier taking the Dizzy or coolant pipe off, so looked on the forum and found out about the conversion to landy sender with variable resistor. It works at treat i have noticed the car actually warms up a lot quicker in reality as the reading is more accurate as it is in the water flow.
Oh and its about 2 mins to fit
Oh and its about 2 mins to fit
Andy, can you confirm the rating of the variable resistor that you used and where you got it from? Oh, and what sort of connector you used to connect to the LR sender.
Thanks,
Speek to David at mod-wise http://home.btconnect.com/djbeer/ , they are very reasonable from him !!, he has the whole thing ready to plug in 5 mins max.
but much easier with a pair of extra long nose pliers or if you've lost them 
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