AVO damper setup - clicks?
Discussion
I have recently had the AVO adjustable dampers serviced/rebuilt by AVO but am since struggling to get the handling feeling right on the Chim.
It's the rear end that doesn't feel right - kind of bouncy.
Current setup is:
Fronts: 375lb 9" spring. 12 clicks on the AVO
Rears: 300lb 10" spring. 14 clicks on the AVO
Can anyone recommend the correct click settings for the AVO's to sort out the handling?
It's the rear end that doesn't feel right - kind of bouncy.
Current setup is:
Fronts: 375lb 9" spring. 12 clicks on the AVO
Rears: 300lb 10" spring. 14 clicks on the AVO
Can anyone recommend the correct click settings for the AVO's to sort out the handling?
piemanpaul said:
I have recently had the AVO adjustable dampers serviced/rebuilt by AVO but am since struggling to get the handling feeling right on the Chim.
It's the rear end that doesn't feel right - kind of bouncy.
Current setup is:
Fronts: 375lb 9" spring. 12 clicks on the AVO
Rears: 300lb 10" spring. 14 clicks on the AVO
Can anyone recommend the correct click settings for the AVO's to sort out the handling?
It's the rear end that doesn't feel right - kind of bouncy.
Current setup is:
Fronts: 375lb 9" spring. 12 clicks on the AVO
Rears: 300lb 10" spring. 14 clicks on the AVO
Can anyone recommend the correct click settings for the AVO's to sort out the handling?
Should there not be a couple more clicks on the front compared to the rear ??
Somebody told me recently that AVO charge about 25 quid to rebuild........
So sounds like I should back them right off?
Then go where with them from there? Black art comes to mind.....
In response to refurb cost by AVO:
Got mine refurbed by AVO FOC as they were less than 2yrs old. Otherwise 20-30 quid each I think depending on how much needs doing.
IIRC clockwise clicks increases damping rate.
Then go where with them from there? Black art comes to mind.....
In response to refurb cost by AVO:
Got mine refurbed by AVO FOC as they were less than 2yrs old. Otherwise 20-30 quid each I think depending on how much needs doing.
IIRC clockwise clicks increases damping rate.
I've had my AVOs for 3 years/20k miles and have the opposite problem. With the dampers set equally the rear is unmoveable whilst the front feels like it has pogo stick inserts instead. Is this how yours felt pre-rebuild?
To be honest I'm about done with them - I find the ride very harsh and the handling has always been fairy horrid. Shouldn't have compromised in the first place bah!
df
To be honest I'm about done with them - I find the ride very harsh and the handling has always been fairy horrid. Shouldn't have compromised in the first place bah!
df
Pre AVO rebuild I don't think I had the solid rear but I certainly had the Pogo stick problem!!!!! Not good on a drive back from Prague!
I suggest you speak to AVO - tell them you're disappointed and they may offer to service for free?
Just really want to get mine sorted. I mean it has new poly bushes, ball joints, steering column rebuild, new TRE's and uprated springs so it really should handle well! But for some reason isn't. The front end is fine (bar knocks, not sure cause of this - perhaps down to Steve Heaths ARB drop links?).
But the rear just doesn't feel "planted". Perhaps I've just got the AVO settings wrong on the rear?
I suggest you speak to AVO - tell them you're disappointed and they may offer to service for free?
Just really want to get mine sorted. I mean it has new poly bushes, ball joints, steering column rebuild, new TRE's and uprated springs so it really should handle well! But for some reason isn't. The front end is fine (bar knocks, not sure cause of this - perhaps down to Steve Heaths ARB drop links?).
But the rear just doesn't feel "planted". Perhaps I've just got the AVO settings wrong on the rear?
There is no right or wrong setting as much of it is down to personal preference and the car setup. If there was, why buy adjustables in the first place? 
Don't assume that the number of clicks are the same front to back. I used to count the clicks, divide by two and then set them there for my base line and work from that. Also don't assume that car A's dampers have the same number of clicks as yours even though they have the same shocks. Simply saying I have 14 clicks isn't enough. Is that 14 out of 16 or 28? It can make a big difference. And yes I have been causght out several times with this during my TVR lifetime.
I suggest you find a piece of road where you can experience the symptoms. Set the rears to their mid range and try it. Then try adjusting a click and go test and see if it is better or worse. If worse go the other way. As a general rule, the front needs to be stiffer than the back and that could be the problem.
Check the tyre pressures are sensible as they can have a huge effect. These can also be adjusted after getting the shocks settings optimum as well.
If the front is knocking then please don't say it is due to my drop links and simply ignore it. It may be a symptom of something not right - is there a bolt that needs tightening or something? Has fitting or adjusting the shocks changed the movement and the drop links need repositioning? Are they catching somewhere? If fitted correctly, they do not knock so any noise should be treated as something to be checked.
Don't assume that the number of clicks are the same front to back. I used to count the clicks, divide by two and then set them there for my base line and work from that. Also don't assume that car A's dampers have the same number of clicks as yours even though they have the same shocks. Simply saying I have 14 clicks isn't enough. Is that 14 out of 16 or 28? It can make a big difference. And yes I have been causght out several times with this during my TVR lifetime. I suggest you find a piece of road where you can experience the symptoms. Set the rears to their mid range and try it. Then try adjusting a click and go test and see if it is better or worse. If worse go the other way. As a general rule, the front needs to be stiffer than the back and that could be the problem.
Check the tyre pressures are sensible as they can have a huge effect. These can also be adjusted after getting the shocks settings optimum as well.
If the front is knocking then please don't say it is due to my drop links and simply ignore it. It may be a symptom of something not right - is there a bolt that needs tightening or something? Has fitting or adjusting the shocks changed the movement and the drop links need repositioning? Are they catching somewhere? If fitted correctly, they do not knock so any noise should be treated as something to be checked.
Dampers are what they say ~ to damp the oscillation of the springs. If you have used harder bushing, lower profile tyres... the damper has to work harder as well. The dampers can stiffen/soften the spring only so much (and not that much realistically + you will wreck the damper faster).
If the ride height is too low & you dont have enough pre-load on the spring then it can jump out of its seat and rattle. If you jack the car up and the spring is not seated this is quite possible.
Dave
If the ride height is too low & you dont have enough pre-load on the spring then it can jump out of its seat and rattle. If you jack the car up and the spring is not seated this is quite possible.
Dave
Thanks for the advice Chaps:
Steve - sorry I didn't mean the drop links were suspect themselves - I meant that I may have fitted them wrong causing them to knock - I will try to check them at the weekend.
Will do as you suggest RE the dampers also. Hope I can get it sorted. Front feels fine, it's the rear that is not good. But spring rates I think are about right (at least on paper - see above). And dampers *should* be ok as were recently rebuilt by AVO. I'd say it's maybe worst on the motorway. Anyway we'll see what adjusting can do at the weekend. Will also check tyre pressures - it has 225 Falken FK452 (by memory at least) on the rear - I would think around 25psi to be right - agree?
Steve - sorry I didn't mean the drop links were suspect themselves - I meant that I may have fitted them wrong causing them to knock - I will try to check them at the weekend.
Will do as you suggest RE the dampers also. Hope I can get it sorted. Front feels fine, it's the rear that is not good. But spring rates I think are about right (at least on paper - see above). And dampers *should* be ok as were recently rebuilt by AVO. I'd say it's maybe worst on the motorway. Anyway we'll see what adjusting can do at the weekend. Will also check tyre pressures - it has 225 Falken FK452 (by memory at least) on the rear - I would think around 25psi to be right - agree?
piemanpaul said:
Thanks for the advice Chaps:
Steve - sorry I didn't mean the drop links were suspect themselves - I meant that I may have fitted them wrong causing them to knock - I will try to check them at the weekend.
Will do as you suggest RE the dampers also. Hope I can get it sorted. Front feels fine, it's the rear that is not good. But spring rates I think are about right (at least on paper - see above). And dampers *should* be ok as were recently rebuilt by AVO. I'd say it's maybe worst on the motorway. Anyway we'll see what adjusting can do at the weekend. Will also check tyre pressures - it has 225 Falken FK452 (by memory at least) on the rear - I would think around 25psi to be right - agree?
Steve - sorry I didn't mean the drop links were suspect themselves - I meant that I may have fitted them wrong causing them to knock - I will try to check them at the weekend.
Will do as you suggest RE the dampers also. Hope I can get it sorted. Front feels fine, it's the rear that is not good. But spring rates I think are about right (at least on paper - see above). And dampers *should* be ok as were recently rebuilt by AVO. I'd say it's maybe worst on the motorway. Anyway we'll see what adjusting can do at the weekend. Will also check tyre pressures - it has 225 Falken FK452 (by memory at least) on the rear - I would think around 25psi to be right - agree?
Some good advice all round and I can only re-iterate my findings on previous experiances with Avo and that is that even on full soft they are working quite hard and I would start by bouncing it to get to a starting point.
Get a mate to bounce the car starting at full soft while you gradually turn up the shocks untill you see it starting hold quite well on the way back up, set the other side to the same level and then get on the road and see how it feels.
What will happen in my experiance is that you will go one click too many and the suspension will go solid, turn it back one or two clicks from there.
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