Stiff Gearchange
Discussion
I've noticed that when my Chim gets hot (especially when in traffic jams) it becomes hard to move the gearstick back into neutral, doesn't seem to be related to any particular gear of plane and doesn't happen all of the time. It seems almost as if its stuck through heat expansion somewhere, a sharp tug does the trick but I'm concerned that one day that sharp tug won't work.
First question is whether they all do that, and if not, is there some form of remote linkage that might need greasing? Any other ideas? The 'box is a T5 and the clutch generally seems OK, a bit heavy but otherwise works fine.
Thanks guys
First question is whether they all do that, and if not, is there some form of remote linkage that might need greasing? Any other ideas? The 'box is a T5 and the clutch generally seems OK, a bit heavy but otherwise works fine.
Thanks guys
Konrod said:
I've noticed that when my Chim gets hot (especially when in traffic jams) it becomes hard to move the gearstick back into neutral, doesn't seem to be related to any particular gear of plane and doesn't happen all of the time. It seems almost as if its stuck through heat expansion somewhere, a sharp tug does the trick but I'm concerned that one day that sharp tug won't work.
First question is whether they all do that, and if not, is there some form of remote linkage that might need greasing? Any other ideas? The 'box is a T5 and the clutch generally seems OK, a bit heavy but otherwise works fine.
Thanks guys
Have you changed the clutch fluid recently?First question is whether they all do that, and if not, is there some form of remote linkage that might need greasing? Any other ideas? The 'box is a T5 and the clutch generally seems OK, a bit heavy but otherwise works fine.
Thanks guys
Had simular problem to you, but was mainly 3/4/5. Things to do.
A - Check Oil level and Change if required
B - Change the clutch fluid
C - Remove center consol and pannel, there is a sliding rod arrangement which could be causing the problem and needs greasing.
D - Syncros gone.
The latter happened on my box the 3/4 syncro failed but had to do 5th as it was welded to the shaft, but the symtom on mine was a little stiff when cold but had to hit it out of gear when warm, but was only related to 4/5, would be unlikely 1/2 and 3/4 failed at same time unless you have no oil in the box.
I would bleed / replace clutch fluid and change gearbox fluid, cheap todo your self. Go for a 5.1 fluid as has higher boiling point.
A - Check Oil level and Change if required
B - Change the clutch fluid
C - Remove center consol and pannel, there is a sliding rod arrangement which could be causing the problem and needs greasing.
D - Syncros gone.
The latter happened on my box the 3/4 syncro failed but had to do 5th as it was welded to the shaft, but the symtom on mine was a little stiff when cold but had to hit it out of gear when warm, but was only related to 4/5, would be unlikely 1/2 and 3/4 failed at same time unless you have no oil in the box.
I would bleed / replace clutch fluid and change gearbox fluid, cheap todo your self. Go for a 5.1 fluid as has higher boiling point.
chrispitman said:
Had simular problem to you, but was mainly 3/4/5. Things to do.
A - Check Oil level and Change if required
B - Change the clutch fluid
C - Remove center consol and pannel, there is a sliding rod arrangement which could be causing the problem and needs greasing.
D - Syncros gone.
The latter happened on my box the 3/4 syncro failed but had to do 5th as it was welded to the shaft, but the symtom on mine was a little stiff when cold but had to hit it out of gear when warm, but was only related to 4/5, would be unlikely 1/2 and 3/4 failed at same time unless you have no oil in the box.
I would bleed / replace clutch fluid and change gearbox fluid, cheap todo your self. Go for a 5.1 fluid as has higher boiling point.
You dont need a synchro to move the gearstick back into neutral or 1st gear providing the car is stationary,just removes that problem from your listA - Check Oil level and Change if required
B - Change the clutch fluid
C - Remove center consol and pannel, there is a sliding rod arrangement which could be causing the problem and needs greasing.
D - Syncros gone.
The latter happened on my box the 3/4 syncro failed but had to do 5th as it was welded to the shaft, but the symtom on mine was a little stiff when cold but had to hit it out of gear when warm, but was only related to 4/5, would be unlikely 1/2 and 3/4 failed at same time unless you have no oil in the box.
I would bleed / replace clutch fluid and change gearbox fluid, cheap todo your self. Go for a 5.1 fluid as has higher boiling point.
however A,B & C applyEdited by That Daddy on Friday 22 June 13:29
Check the level of fluid in the clutch reservoir.
I had the same problem, and on checking found it to be almost empty. Filling it up isn't the answer though - as it must have leaked from somewhere.
With mine, it was the slave cylinder, and replacing that, then filling up & bleeding has done the trick.
I had the same problem, and on checking found it to be almost empty. Filling it up isn't the answer though - as it must have leaked from somewhere.
With mine, it was the slave cylinder, and replacing that, then filling up & bleeding has done the trick.
Edited by E2DJH on Friday 22 June 13:32
E2DJH said:
Check the level of fluid in the clutch reservoir.
I had the same problem, and on checking found it to be almost empty. Filling it up isn't the answer though - as it must have leaked from somewhere.
With mine, it was the slave cylinder, and replacing that, then filling up & bleeding has done the trick.
Without the complaint that it's difficult to engage a gear from stationary, I don't see this is a clutch related issue. Following the advice above, I'd start with " Remove center consol and pannel, there is a sliding rod arrangement which could be causing the problem and needs greasing." If that didn't work then I'd change the gearbox oil. But if the clutch is disengaging sufficiently to allow easy gear selection from stataionary it can't be sufficiently engaged to hinder returning to neutral IMHO, Nick.I had the same problem, and on checking found it to be almost empty. Filling it up isn't the answer though - as it must have leaked from somewhere.
With mine, it was the slave cylinder, and replacing that, then filling up & bleeding has done the trick.
Edited by E2DJH on Friday 22 June 13:32
Thanks Guys for all of your comments. I got Offords to change the gearbox fluid whilst the exhaust was being done, so I guess that isn't the problem.
Haven't seen any fluid leaks on drive or garage floor, but that isn't conclusive so I'll give the reservoir a look see and change the fluid anyway as i don't know when it was last done.
When you say remove the console and panel, I assume you mean the thing my left elbow sits on when I'm trying to look cool.......... This is a screw under the oddments recess at the backl and two screws at the front isn't it. How do you get it over the handbrake??
Haven't seen any fluid leaks on drive or garage floor, but that isn't conclusive so I'll give the reservoir a look see and change the fluid anyway as i don't know when it was last done.
When you say remove the console and panel, I assume you mean the thing my left elbow sits on when I'm trying to look cool.......... This is a screw under the oddments recess at the backl and two screws at the front isn't it. How do you get it over the handbrake??
Konrod said:
When you say remove the console and panel, I assume you mean the thing my left elbow sits on when I'm trying to look cool.......... This is a screw under the oddments recess at the backl and two screws at the front isn't it. How do you get it over the handbrake??
I'd like to know how to remove the door opener knob thingy! I look at it but can't see how...CaptiV8ted said:
Konrod said:
When you say remove the console and panel, I assume you mean the thing my left elbow sits on when I'm trying to look cool.......... This is a screw under the oddments recess at the backl and two screws at the front isn't it. How do you get it over the handbrake??
I'd like to know how to remove the door opener knob thingy! I look at it but can't see how...CaptiV8ted said:
Woo hoo! Cheers mate, I shall have a butchers. I had this stiff gear problem a while back when it was a very hot day - bled clutch, but I wanted to check the linkage too. Then I immediately forgot all about it.
No problem mate.Decided to have a look myself tonight.
Took console off 3 screws and removed gear knob you don't need to remove golf ball.
Squirted grease around base of linkage and pivot.
Wow as good as ky
How long it will last will have to see but slipping into gear is alot easier.
V8 Animal
Konrod said:
Thanks Guys for all of your comments. I got Offords to change the gearbox fluid whilst the exhaust was being done, so I guess that isn't the problem.
Haven't seen any fluid leaks on drive or garage floor, but that isn't conclusive so I'll give the reservoir a look see and change the fluid anyway as i don't know when it was last done.
When you say remove the console and panel, I assume you mean the thing my left elbow sits on when I'm trying to look cool.......... This is a screw under the oddments recess at the backl and two screws at the front isn't it. How do you get it over the handbrake??
I posted a similar thread on the Griff forum a few weeks ago. My Griff 500 was showing identical symptoms with gear change becoming difficult when hot. Most of the advice that came back said change the oil. Racing Green TVR use SHC ATF(DEX11) for the T5 box, which I purchased from them. After changing my oil I decided to check the clutch fluid. To my amazement it was all but empty.Haven't seen any fluid leaks on drive or garage floor, but that isn't conclusive so I'll give the reservoir a look see and change the fluid anyway as i don't know when it was last done.
When you say remove the console and panel, I assume you mean the thing my left elbow sits on when I'm trying to look cool.......... This is a screw under the oddments recess at the backl and two screws at the front isn't it. How do you get it over the handbrake??
The master cylinder had leaked. I fitted a new master cylinder and it has transformed the gear change (even when hot) CRAIGLo, think i might have the same problem my chims gearchange gets harder the warmer it is, I removed the centre console but i cant see a way of getting to the linkage without removing the gaiter which is held in with rivets.... Don't fancy drilling said rivets out because of swarf and how would i re-attach?
cheers
cheers
barryhercules said:
Lo, think i might have the same problem my chims gearchange gets harder the warmer it is, I removed the centre console but i cant see a way of getting to the linkage without removing the gaiter which is held in with rivets.... Don't fancy drilling said rivets out because of swarf and how would i re-attach?
cheers
Don't be a girl, you only drill the tops of the rivets - use a 10mm drill or the like (<30secs even with a rechargeable drill). If you don't have a riveter pop (cheers
) some self taps in with a bit of sealant round the seam (just crappo stuff Sikaflex is too strong IMHO) Dave
Ok done that, change feels a lot slicker between the gears but still has the resistance getting it out of 3, interestingly i noticed today that on 'spirited' changes into fourth there is the occasional crunch makes me wonder if the clutch is dragging slightly. Do you think that could be causing the reluctance to come out of 3rd?
Still had a great time, spent about an hour popping to the local shops....
Still had a great time, spent about an hour popping to the local shops....
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