Recommended mechanic in Glasgow?

[aidanbree]

I have been having overheating problems on my Chim for the past few weeks. I left it with a mechanic I know for a about a week and a half only to have the problem reocurr after a few days.

I was wondering if someone might know or recommend someone in Glasgow (preferably south side!) that might be able to sort it out for me. I was kinda hoping to go away next weekend it it....

Cheers

Aidan

[paulathome]

Aidan,
Before you go to a garage and get ripped off again, have you checked the fans are kicking in when hot? If not, the fans or the otter switch may be faulty. The fans can be checked by removing the connector to the otter switch at the swirl pot (the big aluminium bottle shaped thing in front of the engine) and shorting the two pins together should make the fans come on. (with the ignition turned on)
Have you checked the coolant level. Check in the swirl pot and make sure it is full to the brim.
Does the heater work when the engine is warm? If it doesn't its a sure sign you have an air lock in the system.
There may be a small bleed bolt on top of the radiator on the drivers side which you could undo (when cold) to see if the radiator is full of coolant. If not fill to overflowing and refit the bolt.
Hope this gives you a few idears to diagnose the problem.
Let us know how you get on.
Cheers,
Paul.

[aidanbree]

Hi Paul,

Thanks for the info. I checked the swirl pot earlier and it was a bit on the light side so I topped it up to half way. I ran it for a while and noted that the temperature sat for a long time at 80 which is 'normal' I then took it for a spin, and the temperature increased to 90 then to 95. I let it cool down and checked the swirl pot. Again it was light so I topped it up again.

I will continue to do that until I am sure it is full. I will also check the radiator and add as necessary.

Should I fill the swirl pot to the brim? I have seen posts saying it should be half full (I am an optimistic )

Thanks for your help

Aidan

[Cider Andy]

If the coolant system has a separate swirl pot and expansion tank (the expansion tank having a blue platic filler cap, the swirl pot having a brass or steel plug), the swirl pot should be completely full and the expansion tank approximately half full. If you 'overfill' the expansion tank slightly it will tend to spit out the excess: just make sure it's never empty. Keep the heater control on its hottest setting when venting the system and, of course, be very careful if venting the system whilst it's hot: there's a very real risk of scalding!

[deevlash]

This might not be any help but I use summerlea garage in thornliebank for the puma, obviously its not exactly a specialised v8 though. They seem to have lots of nice new up to date kit and do insurance repairs so seem quite good, might be worth giving them a buzz. They do tyres for mytyres.co.uk too and they seem to have a rolling road. theyre kind of hidden in the middle of a housing estate though.

[deadslow]

George Morrison Motors 103 Farmeloan Road, Rutherglen, Glasgow.
Tel: [phone]

Sorted.

[aidanbree]

Thanks for all the info. Will have a tinker first and if that fails then I will pop it into one of the recommended garages.

Cheers

Aidan

[Chassis 33]

A trick that an Indy showed me for bleeding the system is to make sure the rad is brim to overflowing (as previously stated) and then take the brass plug out of the swill pot and screw a funnel in there, I think they use one of those "Clean Funnels" that the like of Demon Tweeks sell. With that in place and filled to about 3/4 full run the engine up to temperature, air will bubble up the funnel and be replaced by the coolant in the funnel, eventually air will belch up the funnel. So long as you keep the funnel topped up you'll bleed all the air out, it takes a couple of goes to judge where "too full" in the funnel is so you might end up spilling some, but keep going until the "belching" stops, kinda like microwave popcorn when you have to judge when you reckon its all popped!

My reservation is that a plastic funnel gets a bit soft as the temperatures rice, so I've Heath Robinsoned a funnel out of metal that thread into the swirlpot.

Regards
Iain

[aidanbree]

I have previously tried to remove the brass bolt on the swirl pot. Any ideas what tool will be able to open it?

Thanks

[Chassis 33]

I usually use a heavy flat head screwdriver, or a section of T bar I happen to have knocking about, I think once I resorted to a stilson/plumbers wrench.
They are buggers to get out, especially when you don't have the advantage I do that the bonnet lifts completely off, but don't loose your cool with it (excuse the pun), cos that's when things break, go inside have a brew, then have another go.
Regards
Iain

[spend]

I find getting the nose high on ramps and squeezing the last drop out of every rubber hose you can works a treat. I do however have water wetter which Joo reckons is great for preventing air locks. I always top up with rad bleed screw out as a first stage, and prevent it after topping up the swirl tank and having a squeeze session. I don't have all that complex extra plumbing / weight / round the houses belt thingumyjigs tho

Dave

[aidanbree]

Thanks for all the suggestions. Managed to get rid of 'all' the air and took the car for a good spin last night. Seems to have worked a treat. Not going past 80 now.


Thanks for everyones help!

Aidan

[Chassis 33]

glad to be of service

Regards
Iain