Chassis rust- how big an issue is this?

[HiAsAKite]

Hello all,

I've been thinking about getting a TVR for a number of years, and am finally in a position where I should be able to do it- I'm thinking probably a Chimera (although Griffs and V8Ss aren't ruled out).- prob around the £10K mark.

I've been looking at a few cars - mainly at a couple of dealers (who have been incredibly helpful, friendly and completely open and honest about chassis rust etc) and noticed that the chassis (mainly the outriggers but also the main ladder frame in some instances) are in variable condition- ranging from :
- recently recieved full rust treatment and re-painted
- covered in surface rust an flaking original (I think) black paint
- outrigger looks like orange/brown swiss cheese

I should point out at this point that the dealers were completely upfront about the conditions of the respective chassis- and I suspect the cars were priced accordingly, and that the 'swiss cheese' example was not for sale in its current state


However- this is starting to make me think tiwce around TVR ownership, as as far as I can tell the chassis is exposed underneath the car so it will get wet/chipped etc far worse than a more 'ordinary' car.. - I am used to having 'older' cars and keeping ontop of rust but this seems to take it to a new level as the rust appears to be in areas that are not necessarily easy to see, reach or wash/treat without removing bits of car..

So my question is- am I being unnecessarily worried/put off by this- and more importantly:
- if I do get one- how do I avoid it reaching swiss cheese
- is surface rust a problem and how do I stop it getting worse- as an owner what would this mean in terms of commitment looking after the car
- what sort of bill would I be looking at to:-
- get a set of seriously gone outriggers sorted out
- get whole chassis redone?

I would love to have a tiv (Espec a Chimp) in my garage- but would like garner a bit of a view from owners before..

Apologies for the slight ramble- look forward to your replies (And some reassurance?)

A.

[Rum Runner]

If you are hand yourself and don't mind getting dirty then i original just starting to flake is good . One waxoyled from new is rare .
I have clean up 2 very good chassis so far . The last car i bought had been owned for 6 years and not drive in the wet or winter months but the coating was flaking off but only light surface rust .
I think the early cars with silver grey coating have a thicker coating(my 95 car ) than the later like my 98' car which are off white colour .
It is swings and round abouts though as the thick coating chips and holds water more blister where the thinner does not but there are more areas with surface rust because of the thin coating .
I also noticed the later coating had been cooked more by the exhaust , or maybe thats just because it more heat generated by the 500 engine .
I do mine with a dremel tool with flexi drive , Kurust and then SP systems epoxy resin coating ,high impact areas i then spray with stonechip paint , then coat in smoothwrite silver/ grey or white/grey . Then waxoyle and paste it really thick so the stones do go back done the body outrigger gap.

Oh and take plenty of photos'on the way

Edited by Rum Runner on Monday 6th August 19:04

Edited by Rum Runner on Monday 6th August 22:00

[griffter]

You've done well to get straight to the biggest potential problem, and find dealers who are up front about it.
I wouldn't buy a car with a freshly coated chassis - unless backed up by extensive photos and preferably some sort of guarantee. Otherwise how do you know what's actually underneath?
Similarly, why buy a car needing structural chassis work when there are better cars available. Plenty of Chims in your price bracket.
Personally I'd get a car where I can see the condidtion of the chassis, then I'd do the preparation and protection myself - or at least pay a reknowned professional to do it properly.

[HiAsAKite]

Cheers for your responses-

Does someone have a feel for how much should be budgeted to get the chassis done (in the case of a car requiring serious chassis work)?

Also- for surface rust examples- how much work is it to keep on top of it/treat it- a couple of days a year?

Many thanks,

A.

[TVR keith]

HiAsAKite said:

Also- for surface rust examples- how much work is it to keep on top of it/treat it- a couple of days a year?
A.

That depends whether you want to use the car (as I do) or have the thing looking like its just come out of the factory.
Mine didn't have much in the way of problems being only five years old when I got it, but a few days were spent with a wite brush on the drill followed by two coats of Hammerite. A liberal coat of Waxoyl was the applied.
Each winter I get it up on stand having hosed all the mud away and reapply Waxoyl as needed. Any dodgy paint is sorted out at the same time.
This is easily done in 1 or 2 days.
So the chassis on mine looks completely pants with the Waxoyl and dirt on it, but the chassis is fine.
On the other hand if your preference is for a chassis that shines and you want to use it as a show car I think you may have to spend a bit longer, obviously depending on annual mileage and road conditions.
Don't be put off TVR ownership worrying about he chassis. As long a you get a good one and look after it, there won't be an issue.
By the way, the colour of the chassis varied according to TVR's whim when the car was built, some are black, mines white, I think even red was used

Edited by TVR keith on Monday 6th August 11:02

Edited by TVR keith on Monday 6th August 11:03

[puffsorted2]

TVR keith said:

HiAsAKite said:

Also- for surface rust examples- how much work is it to keep on top of it/treat it- a couple of days a year?
A.

That depends whether you want to use the car (as I do) or have the thing looking like its just come out of the factory.
Mine didn't have much in the way of problems being only five years old when I got it, but a few days were spent with a wite brush on the drill followed by two coats of Hammerite. A liberal coat of Waxoyl was the applied.
Each winter I get it up on stand having hosed all the mud away and reapply Waxoyl as needed. Any dodgy paint is sorted out at the same time.
This is easily done in 1 or 2 days.
So the chassis on mine looks completely pants with the Waxoyl and dirt on it, but the chassis is fine.
On the other hand if your preference is for a chassis that shines and you want to use it as a show car I think you may have to spend a bit longer, obviously depending on annual mileage and road conditions.
Don't be put off TVR ownership worrying about he chassis. As long a you get a good one and look after it, there won't be an issue.
By the way, the colour of the chassis varied according to TVR's whim when the car was built, some are black, mines white, I think even red was used

Edited by TVR keith on Monday 6th August 11:02

Edited by TVR keith on Monday 6th August 11:03

Totally agree with this. If you buy a good one then its easy to look after but the time looking after it goes through the roof if you want to keep it looking good under there. The Chassis on mine is in excellent condition but I haven't exactly done a great cosmetic job on it :-), POR15 splashed about everywhere.

[That Daddy]

Yep me too,i know the chassis is protected and thats all that matters,its painted grey primed & painted with Por15,but covered with Dinitrol which attacts dirt and dust and is gungy to touch,bothered no

[HiAsAKite]

Cool- cheers guys...I'm definitely after a driver rather than a show car..

In the event that outriggers (or even chassis) does need repairing properly- does anyone here a feel for the cost of getting this done?

Ta.

[mccrackenj]

Mine is well protected with POR15 too - took me 2 days under the car to do a decent job, spring 06. Since then however I have sprayed Waxoil everywhere, so I know it's well protected but it looks a total mess. In fact if a TVR novice came to see my car they would probably be put off by the appearance of the chassis, so bear that in mind when you're looking at prospective purchases.

[Symonab]

HiAsAKite said:

Cool- cheers guys...I'm definitely after a driver rather than a show car..

In the event that outriggers (or even chassis) does need repairing properly- does anyone here a feel for the cost of getting this done?

Ta.

TVR Car Parts quoted around £1000 - I paid considerably more locally to have outriggers & runners chopped off and replaced and then shot blast and 2 pack epoxy resin coated and baked on. Looks the dogs now though

[HiAsAKite]

out of interest roughly how much did it set you back (I assume a bit more than £1K)-if you don't want to post this mail me?

Anyone had the whole chassis done?

Regards,

A.

[rev-erend]

I clean up my chassis every 2 years..

The test to use - is to hit the steel chassis with something metal like a spanner.. the chassis should ring .. if it goes thud - then it's often more rust than steel.

Scraping around with a screw driver in the 'rust trap' corners is also useful .. but if it's not your car - then ask permission first.

If they decline then just walk away.

It's quite a long job to replace them and £500 per side is reasonable.