Emergency - stuck at work, bible at home..
Discussion
HI all.
I have a problem that I need to sort out or I wont be getting home without a tow truck.
The Chimaera overheated in the traffic on the way in to work because the fans didn't come on...
It was fine for the 25 miles beforehand as it never got over 85, but once in the traffic it was doomed.
I'll have to sit in the traffic straight away for some 20 minutes to get out of Cheltenham this evening so it will have boiled itself dry in no time if I risk that without the fan working.
So in a nutshell:
> Wheres the fan temperature switch (so I can overide it with a paperclip if I have to)
> Whats the most likely cause of the problem.
> Any gems of inspiration from anyone at all.
> jpg's of the engine bay with arrows score extra points.
This is a Pre-Serpentine 1993 4.0 by the way
Many thanks in advance
Matt
I have a problem that I need to sort out or I wont be getting home without a tow truck.
The Chimaera overheated in the traffic on the way in to work because the fans didn't come on...
It was fine for the 25 miles beforehand as it never got over 85, but once in the traffic it was doomed. I'll have to sit in the traffic straight away for some 20 minutes to get out of Cheltenham this evening so it will have boiled itself dry in no time if I risk that without the fan working.
So in a nutshell:
> Wheres the fan temperature switch (so I can overide it with a paperclip if I have to)
> Whats the most likely cause of the problem.
> Any gems of inspiration from anyone at all.
> jpg's of the engine bay with arrows score extra points.
This is a Pre-Serpentine 1993 4.0 by the way
Many thanks in advance
Matt
If you just short out the otter switch at the bottom of the swirl/expansion tank with a paper clip, that will keep the fans on.
I just had a similar problem on a 94 chim when my otter switch failed. It is common apparently. Good news is that it will cost under a tenner for a new one, if thats what it is. I also believe that if your water was very low, it will not activate the switch, so it may just be a case of topping it up.
If when you short out the switch the fans don't come on, its probably a fan fault. The swirl tank is the aluminium, cylinder, often with a blue cap on the passenger side of engine half way up. There are two wires that join the switch near the bottom of the tank. Also chec k the fuse, its a 25 amp one on my car I think, (not many of that size in fuse box) some work with the horn, so if that dosen't work you know its the fuse. Hope that helps.
I just had a similar problem on a 94 chim when my otter switch failed. It is common apparently. Good news is that it will cost under a tenner for a new one, if thats what it is. I also believe that if your water was very low, it will not activate the switch, so it may just be a case of topping it up.
If when you short out the switch the fans don't come on, its probably a fan fault. The swirl tank is the aluminium, cylinder, often with a blue cap on the passenger side of engine half way up. There are two wires that join the switch near the bottom of the tank. Also chec k the fuse, its a 25 amp one on my car I think, (not many of that size in fuse box) some work with the horn, so if that dosen't work you know its the fuse. Hope that helps.
am not sure how to post a pic but here is the link, just need to take the plugs out and clip them onto a paperclip...
http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/3c82a34a/bc/My+Photos/DSCF0147.jpg?bcC7H4.A1UD1fU6C
oops edited to say that for a pre serpentine the switch is not by the fan, one of the regulars can give you more pointers i am sure...
>> Edited by tamago on Friday 6th June 12:28
http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/3c82a34a/bc/My+Photos/DSCF0147.jpg?bcC7H4.A1UD1fU6C
oops edited to say that for a pre serpentine the switch is not by the fan, one of the regulars can give you more pointers i am sure...
>> Edited by tamago on Friday 6th June 12:28
Matt,
Had the same prob myself before. Car fine on open road but hit traffic and it all goes wrong. Anyway, the otter switch should be at the bottom of the swirl tank - the one with the brass screw top. Pull the plug off the switch and short the two female spade type connectors inside the plug with a paperclip. If the fans come on then that pretty much confirms it's the switch thats away. I've also found that a blade fuse broken out the plastic and twisted slightly makes a more secure connection than the paperclip. New switch should be less than £10 from a dealer.
It's also worth checking the two main power connectors which feed the fans, mine were badly corroded and regularly interrupted power getting to the fans. Clean them up and re-fit.
Best of luck!
Robin
Had the same prob myself before. Car fine on open road but hit traffic and it all goes wrong. Anyway, the otter switch should be at the bottom of the swirl tank - the one with the brass screw top. Pull the plug off the switch and short the two female spade type connectors inside the plug with a paperclip. If the fans come on then that pretty much confirms it's the switch thats away. I've also found that a blade fuse broken out the plastic and twisted slightly makes a more secure connection than the paperclip. New switch should be less than £10 from a dealer.
It's also worth checking the two main power connectors which feed the fans, mine were badly corroded and regularly interrupted power getting to the fans. Clean them up and re-fit.
Best of luck!
Robin
most likely the fuse.
25A on some early cars, ( with only one fan? ), but i believe that 40A is more common on cars with 2 fans, unless you have seperate relays for each one. short the otter switch with the ignition on as detailed by the others and if the fans work you know the otter is dead.
if the fans don't work, then as someone said, check the connections, but check the fuse first ( location in handbook, but on mine it's on the LHS of the fuse box behind the battery ). then check the relay ( if you don't have any test gear then you could try putting a paper clip around the 'switched' contacts on the relay ( look at the digram on the top of the relay to find out which ones these are - the relay's coil is marked as a box with a line diagonal across it, and the switch is illustrated like an open gate ) and re-fit, then switch on the ignition again. often just a bang on the floor of the car will free the relay up enough to work again, but you can prise them open to clean them up a bit if you want to.
will be picking up a new relay and another spare fuse for mine this afternoon - you are not alone.
bleed the cooling system as described elsewhere on this forum before you leave work - air in the system can screw things up royally as well.
i am on my 3rd or fourth fuse ( in a year! ), and will be putting in an extra relay as soon as i get some time. have to take some measurements this w/e to order the connectors in.
25A on some early cars, ( with only one fan? ), but i believe that 40A is more common on cars with 2 fans, unless you have seperate relays for each one. short the otter switch with the ignition on as detailed by the others and if the fans work you know the otter is dead.
if the fans don't work, then as someone said, check the connections, but check the fuse first ( location in handbook, but on mine it's on the LHS of the fuse box behind the battery ). then check the relay ( if you don't have any test gear then you could try putting a paper clip around the 'switched' contacts on the relay ( look at the digram on the top of the relay to find out which ones these are - the relay's coil is marked as a box with a line diagonal across it, and the switch is illustrated like an open gate ) and re-fit, then switch on the ignition again. often just a bang on the floor of the car will free the relay up enough to work again, but you can prise them open to clean them up a bit if you want to.
will be picking up a new relay and another spare fuse for mine this afternoon - you are not alone
. bleed the cooling system as described elsewhere on this forum before you leave work - air in the system can screw things up royally as well.
i am on my 3rd or fourth fuse ( in a year! ), and will be putting in an extra relay as soon as i get some time. have to take some measurements this w/e to order the connectors in.
Matt
Shorting the switch out wiil only work if it's the otter that gone
More likley is the fuse, do you know where it is ? (I do on mine, probably different on yours)
To test, remove 2 connectors from the otter, turn ignition on and short the connectors, if the fans don't come chances are its the fuse
If you can't get a fuse, have a beer (just the one of course) and go home @ 19:00
Good luck
Ben
>> Edited to say
just like Cimburt said
>> Edited by Incorrigible on Friday 6th June 13:43
Shorting the switch out wiil only work if it's the otter that gone
More likley is the fuse, do you know where it is ? (I do on mine, probably different on yours)
To test, remove 2 connectors from the otter, turn ignition on and short the connectors, if the fans don't come chances are its the fuse
If you can't get a fuse, have a beer (just the one of course) and go home @ 19:00
Good luck
Ben
>> Edited to say
just like Cimburt said >> Edited by Incorrigible on Friday 6th June 13:43
chimburt said: dropacog,
yeah, what the hell's been going on?
did that kid get canned in the end?
Dunno mate, sort of gave up trying to keep track of the pro and cons in the argument on whether to let back him in, let alone what actually led to his expulsion.
My opinion is if Ted thought he should be banned then he probably should (and I cant see Ted taking such a decision lightly). Anyway, lest I get accused of cross-threading, hope the Chim doesnt boil over on the way home!
HI Guys, thanks for all the inputs... are you sure the otters at the bottome of the swirl tank on mine (mine has a blue cap and is remarkably plain).. ..is it actually cored into the tank or the hose to the bottom of the tank..?
Sadly I cant see the pic posted..
If its a fuse I can swap it with the headlamp fuse I guess...? The Horn works fine by the way..
can anyone tell me which ones which from this picture please..
Edited to add... and which relay too please
This is all very much obliged..
Matt
>> Edited by M@H on Friday 6th June 14:57
Sadly I cant see the pic posted..
If its a fuse I can swap it with the headlamp fuse I guess...? The Horn works fine by the way..
can anyone tell me which ones which from this picture please..
Edited to add... and which relay too please
This is all very much obliged..
Matt
>> Edited by M@H on Friday 6th June 14:57
Phew - unsurprisingly, I cannot work out how this corresponds with the bible. Looks like yours was made on a Friday morning.......
But, if I am reading it right, for an early Chimaera the far right end fuse should be a 40 amp one and should be the bottom right relay for the fan relay.....
I'm still looking, though!
But, if I am reading it right, for an early Chimaera the far right end fuse should be a 40 amp one and should be the bottom right relay for the fan relay.....
I'm still looking, though!
it is actually cored into the tank about an inch from the bottom on mine. the picture posted shows the same switch but it looks like on that car it is halfway down one side of the radiator facing towards the engine. (on passenger side,just lower than the large diameter air intake pipe, and under a top radiator hose) Mine is facing inwards towards the distributor on the swirl tank. If it is there you can't miss it or mistake it for anything else. Regarding the fuses, I'd look at them all above and including 25amp. There are only a few.
>> Edited by steveshutt on Friday 6th June 16:01
>> Edited by steveshutt on Friday 6th June 16:01
sorry mate, can't help there - your fuse/relay box is upside down compared to mine, and i wouldn't like to guess it!
do you have the regular owner's handbook in the car? it should show you in there.
my car is a little later so i guess this is where the differences come in.
sorry i can't be of much help.
edited to add that if you go through the fuses and find one with melted bits of plastic then that'll be it! sorry - not much use i know. but reckon it would be worth your while to work your way through them as this is the most likely culprit. good luck.
as to the expulsion dropacog, well, from what i read he was putting people's backs up. whether this was intentional or not is moot. Ted's site so he does what he likes - fair enough IMO.
>> Edited by chimburt on Friday 6th June 16:08
do you have the regular owner's handbook in the car? it should show you in there.
my car is a little later so i guess this is where the differences come in.
sorry i can't be of much help.
edited to add that if you go through the fuses and find one with melted bits of plastic then that'll be it! sorry - not much use i know. but reckon it would be worth your while to work your way through them as this is the most likely culprit. good luck.
as to the expulsion dropacog, well, from what i read he was putting people's backs up. whether this was intentional or not is moot. Ted's site so he does what he likes - fair enough IMO.
>> Edited by chimburt on Friday 6th June 16:08
Fuses: here's the theory!
40 Orange Cooling Fans
20 Yellow ECU
25 White Heated Seats
30 Green Windows
15 Blue Dipped Beam
10 Red L/H Indicator
10 Red R/H indicator
15 Blue Alarm
10 Red Instruments
15 Blue Cigar
15 Blue Lights/Hazards
15 Blue Ignition & ECU
15 Blue Spare
15 Blue Central Door Locks
20 Yellow Wipers
10 Red Mirror
10 Red Speedo/Brake/Reverse
15 Blue Heater
15 Blue Horns
15 Blue Main Beam
25 White Ignition Switch
40 Orange Cooling Fans
20 Yellow ECU
25 White Heated Seats
30 Green Windows
15 Blue Dipped Beam
10 Red L/H Indicator
10 Red R/H indicator
15 Blue Alarm
10 Red Instruments
15 Blue Cigar
15 Blue Lights/Hazards
15 Blue Ignition & ECU
15 Blue Spare
15 Blue Central Door Locks
20 Yellow Wipers
10 Red Mirror
10 Red Speedo/Brake/Reverse
15 Blue Heater
15 Blue Horns
15 Blue Main Beam
25 White Ignition Switch
now 
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