Keep coolant temperature at 80 C max?
Discussion
Hi all,
been reading the "Power Tune RV8" book by Des Hammill. It says that the coolant temp should be at 80 max to limit block expansion and thus avoiding the main caps loosening due to different expansion rates of the (cast iron) main caps and the (aluminium) block. My 1999 500 runs in the usual 70-90 degree range (normal road use, no track days)
Should I go for a Leven kit to lower the temp or leave it as it is?
Second question: Does the 500 engine have the 2 bolt main cap arrangement or is it crossbolted?
Many thanks,
Stefan
been reading the "Power Tune RV8" book by Des Hammill. It says that the coolant temp should be at 80 max to limit block expansion and thus avoiding the main caps loosening due to different expansion rates of the (cast iron) main caps and the (aluminium) block. My 1999 500 runs in the usual 70-90 degree range (normal road use, no track days)
Should I go for a Leven kit to lower the temp or leave it as it is?
Second question: Does the 500 engine have the 2 bolt main cap arrangement or is it crossbolted?
Many thanks,
Stefan
Pretty sure its fine running at 90 degrees, but if you want it running 80 max, here's what I did:
-Flush coolant system and refill with new stuff
-Replace Otter switch with one that brings the fans on at 70 rather than 80
-Full decat (Stops the main cat acting like an under-bonnet radiator)
None of this was done because there was a problem, it used to sit at 90 in traffic and 70-80 on the road just fine. But when de-catting I thought it would be worth giving the coolant system a bit of TLC and it now runs at 70 on the road and 80 max!
-Flush coolant system and refill with new stuff
-Replace Otter switch with one that brings the fans on at 70 rather than 80
-Full decat (Stops the main cat acting like an under-bonnet radiator)
None of this was done because there was a problem, it used to sit at 90 in traffic and 70-80 on the road just fine. But when de-catting I thought it would be worth giving the coolant system a bit of TLC and it now runs at 70 on the road and 80 max!
I'm surprised it can do that without reference to the stat?
There isn't a stat I've seen that can go as low as 70, for the 80C the OP requires, you can get 74C variants and there is a 71C but I never found one with a large orifice. I would also suggest sticking some temp sensors in place of the block drain taps so you can measure the temps around the engine. Otter switches dont go very low, so you have to put them on the hot side of the rad, but its prob better to get an adjustable like Modwise use anyway. I reckon you will need the extra cores in your rad or an alloy version to keep it that low when crawling.
Dave
There isn't a stat I've seen that can go as low as 70, for the 80C the OP requires, you can get 74C variants and there is a 71C but I never found one with a large orifice. I would also suggest sticking some temp sensors in place of the block drain taps so you can measure the temps around the engine. Otter switches dont go very low, so you have to put them on the hot side of the rad, but its prob better to get an adjustable like Modwise use anyway. I reckon you will need the extra cores in your rad or an alloy version to keep it that low when crawling.
Dave
Edited by spend on Friday 17th August 22:33
My Otter switch and thermostat have been replaced with much lower rated items to keep the temp around 80c max. However it tends to put the fans on full chat most of the time, which is a bit annoying and can't be good for the motors. It could also be masking a more serious problem so I am going to revert to standard, monitor the temps and possibly fit the Modwise kit.
The switch I had fitted was done by Dave Batty as a preventative measure. He said they were off the very late model cars so maybe the se griffs or '01 model chims?? Either way they come on at about 70 - could be a 71 rated one? - But unlike redcabbage they aren't on unless the car is stationary and up to full heat. Though this could have a lot to do with the fact there are no cats so a lot more of the exhaust heat goes out the back rather than warming the engine bay. I also have a mini front number plate which is meant to help, though I fitted it because it looks better and can't say i've noticed a huge difference except at motorway speed when it sits at 65/70 in winter/summer. Maybe a modwise kit would be a better option in that case? I'm switching to an Emerald system soon though (as soon as Dave comes up with the price!) so can ditch the otter switch altogether and set the fans via the laptop!
BLOODY WEATHERS CRAP HER AT THE MO
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