Help.....engine noise now....
Help.....engine noise now....
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Discussion

Gorvid

Original Poster:

22,371 posts

255 months

Friday 7th September 2007
quotequote all

I had this issue here --> http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

I also had the Chim in for some paint this week. Which...by the way...looks great. thumbup

However.

I now have a tap-tap-tap-tap-tap sound. Like when you put a lolly stick in your spokes as a lad. It gets louder and faster with the revs. It is most audible at higher speeds. It >>appears<< to happen far more audibly when the car is in gear as opposed to revving out of gear.

I had planned to go for new distributer, leads and plugs to see if the mis-fire would go.

I 'think' this noise is eminating from the left-hand side of the engine. Near the air-flow meter, under the oil filler cap.[ish].

Any clues ?? ?? ??

Gorvid

Original Poster:

22,371 posts

255 months

Friday 7th September 2007
quotequote all
Left hand side from the drivers seat I mean...

v8 racing

2,064 posts

281 months

Friday 7th September 2007
quotequote all
That will most likely be a blowing exhaust gasket, easy way to tell is go down the road at say 2000 rpm with very little throttle open, say 2nd gear at 25 mph or something, then go down the road at the same rpm or as close as you can get (2000 rpm) but wide open throttle, so 4-5 gear, if the noise is louder it will definetly be the gaskets, you are moving more air through the engine because it is loaded so the noise will be louder, hope this helps a bit

Gorvid

Original Poster:

22,371 posts

255 months

Friday 7th September 2007
quotequote all
v8 racing said:
That will most likely be a blowing exhaust gasket, easy way to tell is go down the road at say 2000 rpm with very little throttle open, say 2nd gear at 25 mph or something, then go down the road at the same rpm or as close as you can get (2000 rpm) but wide open throttle, so 4-5 gear, if the noise is louder it will definetly be the gaskets, you are moving more air through the engine because it is loaded so the noise will be louder, hope this helps a bit
Thanks chum.

Whats the severity if it is that...?

v8 racing

2,064 posts

281 months

Friday 7th September 2007
quotequote all
approx £200 from a garage, or a little bit of cursing and swearing and £20 in parts if you do it yourself!

Gorvid

Original Poster:

22,371 posts

255 months

Friday 7th September 2007
quotequote all
v8 racing said:
approx £200 from a garage, or a little bit of cursing and swearing and £20 in parts if you do it yourself!
Is it a bugger job?

I tend to buy the parts and take it to my mechanic for bugger jobs. frown

V8 Animal

6,015 posts

240 months

Friday 7th September 2007
quotequote all
Of what ive read it's a pig of a job you could shear bolts which would mean heads off etc.
But saying that i would still tackle it.
Do a search there's lots of info.
Regards

f@-pots

204 posts

233 months

Saturday 8th September 2007
quotequote all
Hey there gorvid, The manifold gasket thing sounds about right mine was doing the same thing , I'd take the sheared bolt thing seriously though ,I've just spent a fair bit of time trying to get siezed bolts out only to shear three and end up taking the heads off drilling out the bolts and fitting helicoil inserts to repair the threads! I'm doing this myself so the costs are only for bits , but if you dont have the experience i'd definitely take your car to a nice man who does and happily part with the two hundred squids. (Although if they are as seized as mine I reckon even a garage would have had trouble)Best of luck............

RumbleBee

333 posts

236 months

Saturday 8th September 2007
quotequote all
Try the bolts first, mine came out easy enough. It would be a very simple job indeed if only the access was easier. If you have spades for hands you may need to remove the starter motor to get at one of the bolts. I managed without. As with most jobs on a TVR, it would be easy if only the access wasnt so tight.

RedCabbage

3,606 posts

262 months

Saturday 8th September 2007
quotequote all
All the bolts can be accessed from the top with provided you have a good selection of spanners (open & ring) and 3/8 drive sockets.

Using the 3/8" drive socket instead of 1/2"applies less torque and reduces the risk of shearing bolts i.e. if a 3/8 won't shift it then it is at risk.

Use the individual composite exhaust gaskets they may be more fiddly to fit (tying on with cotton helps) but give a better seal.

Have fun!

Gorvid

Original Poster:

22,371 posts

255 months

Saturday 8th September 2007
quotequote all
...so

what bit exactly do i need to replace?

is it easier to replace the lot?

GreenV8S

31,027 posts

314 months

Saturday 8th September 2007
quotequote all
Gorvid said:
what bit exactly do i need to replace?
The exhaust manifold gasket(s). They usually come in pairs i.e. one gasket covers two cylinders so you have two gaskets on each side of the engine. It is just barely possible to replace one gasket without replacing the adjacent one, but not something I'd recommend trying tbh.

There's no reason not to DIY but it is hard to overstate the amount of hassle and frustration you will face getting the bolts off and on, and if you snap any bolts or strip the threads you will need to take the heads off to repair them. If you're comfortable with that possibility then go for it.

I suggest you go for the embossed twin metal composite gaskets that Clever Trevor sells, although the plain metal composite gaskets that you can get from RPI etc are also good.

I also suggest you get a set of ARP K-head bolts. They have smaller heads which makes access much easier. This sounds like a small point but after a few hours fighting to get a spanner on the old ones you will come to realize how hugely massively important it is.

Also get some good slim 72 point ratchet ring spanners (14mm or 9/16", and 3/8&quotwink. Worth their weight in gold for this job.

f@-pots

204 posts

233 months

Sunday 9th September 2007
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Totally agree with V8S , especially about the replacement bolts , the small 3/8" head with integral washer you get with the ARP s/s bolts more than makes up for the cost. Oh and you don't need a 1/2 " drive anything to shear the aft bolts on my heads ,just an ordinary ring spanner !! ( lotsa weetabix )

Gorvid

Original Poster:

22,371 posts

255 months

Sunday 9th September 2007
quotequote all
To clarify - I'm handing this one over to the mechanics....

Because i have a habit of wrenching things off with brute force paperbag


BUT!.... can someone point me towards the bolts i should buy to replace the existing ones [when they are off] ???

smile

Gorvid

Original Poster:

22,371 posts

255 months

Sunday 9th September 2007
quotequote all
Quinny said:
I suppose you want me to come and fit them as wellhehehehe
When can you make it ???

biggrin