Treating Chassis.....Hammerite or POR 15 /and door rubber?

[leemarkadams]

Hello all,

With winter approaching I doubt I will use the Chim much for a while, so I have a few jobs to do over the winter:

1. I want to replace the door/body rubber seal thingy (One than seals the door when shut), where can you get replacements from?

2. I also want to treat the chassis over the winter, happy you have to wire brush all the crap off, but what is the best to use on the cleaned chassis/outriggers, Hammerite or POR 15?

Thanks

Lee

[Zumbruk]

leemarkadams said:

Hello all,

With winter approaching I doubt I will use the Chim much for a while, so I have a few jobs to do over the winter:

1. I want to replace the door/body rubber seal thingy (One than seals the door when shut), where can you get replacements from?

2. I also want to treat the chassis over the winter, happy you have to wire brush all the crap off, but what is the best to use on the cleaned chassis/outriggers, Hammerite or POR 15?

POR15. Hammerite chips and comes off.

[leemarkadams]

Ok thanks, I am assuming FROSTs is the place to get it, what colour does everyone go for?

Lee

[Rum Runner]

Epoxy resin is the way , the stuff used for making carbon fibre mat in something more usefull. And stonechip paint is also good

[SimonV8ster]

Its funny, in the last edition of Practical Classics (I think it was??) POR15 didn't get a good review, only scored 4 out of 10 when other products beat it. Can't remember what they didn't like about it. Some Dinitrol anti rust product came out on top.

[leemarkadams]

Rum Runner said:

Epoxy resin is the way , the stuff used for making carbon fibre mat in something more usefull. And stonechip paint is also good

That is a thought?

What else do people recommend, as I have searched the archives and it is between hammerite and POR 15....

Lee

[GreenV8S]

I haven't tried Zinga, but some people swear by it.

[SimonV8ster]

I used some zinc primer (can't remember which make) but it must be similar to POR15. Painted it on and it sets hard as nails within a few minutes, after a couple of coats then covered in hammerite then waxoilyed on top.

I bought some Dinitrol rust killer spray which comes with a 360 degree head at the end of a tube. You can shove this up the sides of the outriggers and then cover the tops of them with the treatment.

[leemarkadams]

Thanks for all the advice, plan on starting it in a couple of weeks....up on axle stands it goes and in I go with the wire brush, wire brush drill attachment and all the other good stuff.

Just out of interest, what colour does everyone paint the chassis?

Lee

[Rum Runner]

I have done 2 so far both taken all the way back down with a dremel , treated with hammerite Kurust , then epoxy resin , the high impact areas sprayed with stone chip paint (outrigger and mounts front rear wheel arch ),then mixed silver and grey smoothrite old chassis colour match or later white and grey , given them a good length of time to dry (weeks ) , then waxoyle. I also blanked the ends of the outrigger front and rear arch with a good blob of underseal to stop the stones going down the outrigger and then jamming between the body and tube which rub and create rust.
Good luck its a horrid job.

Edited by Rum Runner on Sunday 30th September 21:09

[That Daddy]

I have had great success with primer from this company www.bilthamber.com/electrox.html over painted with POR15 and the bits you cant see properly Dinitrol injection wax(blows Waxoyl into the weeds)as Rumrunner says its a crap job,and hard to keep motivated at 1st,its the cleaning & prepping bit that stinks.

[biggiles]

I used Rust Bullet- six months later it looks good.

Very messy job and takes much longer to grind down than expected.

[FlipFlopGriff]

Had new front wishbones and painted them in POR15. 2 and a half years later not a mark on them and teh Griff is used daily - so approx 20k miles in all weathers.
FFG

Edited by FlipFlopGriff on Monday 1st October 16:12

[Overhere]

I did the outriggers with POR 15 last winter, seems hard as nails, I used silver and looks ok. The big problem was cleaning years of waxoyl off, what a pain, then chipping the paint off where it was bubbling from rust, another pain. The plan was to do the wishbones and chassis parts as well and the hope was to get it looking super, I gave up and just went for what was necessary.

POR 15 is runny and hard to work with AND once dried nearly impossible to get off, clothes, workbench even skin!

Good luck

[leemarkadams]

Thanks for all the replies, looks like I may well have to go for the POR 15 route then...

So, how much do you reckon I will need to do the chassis etc?

Also, I am getting the feeling that silver is the colour to go for, is this correct?

Thanks

Lee

[FlipFlopGriff]

Get the 6 small tins as the large tin will go hard, and I mean solid if not used for a time.
FFG

[leemarkadams]

Thanks FFG,

What colour though?

Lee

[GreenV8S]

If you're planning to use any sort of treatment over the top then that might affect your choice of paint colour. For example I've got for yucky black paint because it matches the yucky black waxoil that is slathered all over it.

[spend]

Black is always easier to match POR15 colours do change significantly with exposure to UV light.

Dave

[Andy JB]

FWIW I did this last year & used a combo :- Hammerite smooth paint (light grey matching original colour) and in high impact areas I used a coat of black hamerite stone chip solution from a tub which you paint on heavily and which dries into a nice thick coating to prevent chipping ie behind front wheels & rear wheel at the chassis corners. Easily touched up each/couple of years.

All from any motorfactors less than £10 each

POR 15 has received poor reviews. I guess the state of your chassis shoud detrmine treatment first. Just ensure the chassis is grease free first