Help won't start
Discussion
Had my 2000 Chimaera 4.0 fo 1 month and had a great time and no trouble with first time starting.
Took it for a 300 mile round trip last weekend (>30mpg) and again no problem although I did notice when I got back on the drive that it misfired a little when revving from tickover. Just thought it was a little hot and temprimental.
Anyway thought nothing of it and put the car in the garage.
Nice sunny day yesterday so decided to take it out for a run. Would not start!!
Battery fully charged, Fuel pump sounds, starter turns the engine but no firing?
I'm pretty basic in engineering so pulled off HT lead and nice spark, took off plug cap and again spark.
Changed all the plugs and leads and rotor arm (Lucas) and still the same, cranks but doesn't start. Getting a spark at the plugs and the battery is fully charged.
So gone from starting perfectly to no starter.
Can smell petrol so not fuel starvation
HELP
Took it for a 300 mile round trip last weekend (>30mpg) and again no problem although I did notice when I got back on the drive that it misfired a little when revving from tickover. Just thought it was a little hot and temprimental.
Anyway thought nothing of it and put the car in the garage.
Nice sunny day yesterday so decided to take it out for a run. Would not start!!
Battery fully charged, Fuel pump sounds, starter turns the engine but no firing?
I'm pretty basic in engineering so pulled off HT lead and nice spark, took off plug cap and again spark.
Changed all the plugs and leads and rotor arm (Lucas) and still the same, cranks but doesn't start. Getting a spark at the plugs and the battery is fully charged.
So gone from starting perfectly to no starter.
Can smell petrol so not fuel starvation
HELP
Hi,
Are you sure about the battery? Mine had the same simptoms once so I called the AA. He jump started it and checked the battery. Turned out to be a faulty battery. New battery fitted and no problems since.
I'm no expert, but as I understand it these cars take a huge current to start, so even though everything looks ok there may not be enough juice in the battery.
Try jump starting it. This should prove your battery status.
Good Luck
Are you sure about the battery? Mine had the same simptoms once so I called the AA. He jump started it and checked the battery. Turned out to be a faulty battery. New battery fitted and no problems since.
I'm no expert, but as I understand it these cars take a huge current to start, so even though everything looks ok there may not be enough juice in the battery.
Try jump starting it. This should prove your battery status.
Good Luck
I have an Accumate so confident with battery.
Nervous about jump start as my drive is 1 in 10 downhill and the car's facing backwards.
If it doesn't start I'm stuck with it on the road at the bottom of my drive.
Wish it was that easy.
Unfortunately I don't have homestart ..... will sort that at renewal
Nervous about jump start as my drive is 1 in 10 downhill and the car's facing backwards.
If it doesn't start I'm stuck with it on the road at the bottom of my drive.
Wish it was that easy.
Unfortunately I don't have homestart ..... will sort that at renewal
9884booth said:
I have an Accumate so confident with battery.
Nervous about jump start as my drive is 1 in 10 downhill and the car's facing backwards.
If it doesn't start I'm stuck with it on the road at the bottom of my drive.
Wish it was that easy.
Unfortunately I don't have homestart ..... will sort that at renewal
I think Mattcar was referring to jump starting(jump leads) rather than bump starting(pushing car)just a small heads upNervous about jump start as my drive is 1 in 10 downhill and the car's facing backwards.
If it doesn't start I'm stuck with it on the road at the bottom of my drive.
Wish it was that easy.
Unfortunately I don't have homestart ..... will sort that at renewal
and at least if you jump it you will know if its your batt not supplying the beans.
Right
If you have a spark then the battery is probably ok
The fuel pump is spinning up so the alarm/immobiiser has disengaged (do recycle this a few times though)
It all points to that tricky little b****rd the starter motor. Get under the car and check all connections are tight (they will be!). Hit it hard with a hammer or some such. If it starts then you need to recondition the starter or buy a new one. If so don't pay more than ~£105 from anyone. I got one for a Griff 500 for £70.
Nothing complex and explains why you could bump it as this forces the starter motor...................
If you have a spark then the battery is probably ok
The fuel pump is spinning up so the alarm/immobiiser has disengaged (do recycle this a few times though)
It all points to that tricky little b****rd the starter motor. Get under the car and check all connections are tight (they will be!). Hit it hard with a hammer or some such. If it starts then you need to recondition the starter or buy a new one. If so don't pay more than ~£105 from anyone. I got one for a Griff 500 for £70.
Nothing complex and explains why you could bump it as this forces the starter motor...................
Steve,
So the engine is turning over, at normal sort of speed?, so the batt is prob ok.
There is a spark at the plugs?
You can hear the fuel pump?
If so then when you have been trying to start & you take the plugs out are they wet?
They should be if the injectors are supplying fuel.
I'd check this & also try to get hold of a can of Small engine starter. Spray this into the intake then try to start it.
If it fires up for a moment, as I think it will, then you are looking at a fuel supply problem or ecu signal to the injectors.
So the engine is turning over, at normal sort of speed?, so the batt is prob ok.
There is a spark at the plugs?
You can hear the fuel pump?
If so then when you have been trying to start & you take the plugs out are they wet?
They should be if the injectors are supplying fuel.
I'd check this & also try to get hold of a can of Small engine starter. Spray this into the intake then try to start it.
If it fires up for a moment, as I think it will, then you are looking at a fuel supply problem or ecu signal to the injectors.
Trying to check the resistance as you suggest on TRRCC with the ECU plug disconnected and don't seen to get any measured resistance on my avo.
Tried pins 7 and 25 and 25 and 32 but no reading from either.
Disconnected the fuel pump relay and no fuel pump sound when try to start but sounds more like starting, but doesn't get to a cough point. When reconnected hear the pump again but still doesn't start despite turning as normal.
Mistified by the no ohm readings though?
Tried some easy start into the air pipe at the front of the car near the numberplate and didn't seem to make any difference.
I see my fuel tank is showing fairly low...could it be a false fuel reading?
Going to go and get a can of petrol just in case.....but that doesn't answer the no signal from the ECU pins.
Put a gallon of petrol in and still no difference !!!!
Getting to where I need a real expert to look I think....but not easy to get it to a garage as my drive is 1in 4 and I don't fancy towing it.
Ah well will report back when I've checked the fuel position.....but plugs to seem flooded....I guess they could if only a bit of fuel was getting through and then no starting?
As you can tell by this posting I'm a novice with engines, not touched one since my VW Beetle and Mini 850 in the early 80's
Another sunny day and still no Beast to drive around in and no club in North Wales.
Tried pins 7 and 25 and 25 and 32 but no reading from either.
Disconnected the fuel pump relay and no fuel pump sound when try to start but sounds more like starting, but doesn't get to a cough point. When reconnected hear the pump again but still doesn't start despite turning as normal.
Mistified by the no ohm readings though?
Tried some easy start into the air pipe at the front of the car near the numberplate and didn't seem to make any difference.
I see my fuel tank is showing fairly low...could it be a false fuel reading?
Going to go and get a can of petrol just in case.....but that doesn't answer the no signal from the ECU pins.
Put a gallon of petrol in and still no difference !!!!
Getting to where I need a real expert to look I think....but not easy to get it to a garage as my drive is 1in 4 and I don't fancy towing it.
Ah well will report back when I've checked the fuel position.....but plugs to seem flooded....I guess they could if only a bit of fuel was getting through and then no starting?
As you can tell by this posting I'm a novice with engines, not touched one since my VW Beetle and Mini 850 in the early 80's
Another sunny day and still no Beast to drive around in and no club in North Wales.
Edited by 9884booth on Sunday 4th November 12:22
I was trying to start mine for several days, had to take my plugs out for a second time, leave them out for two days to dry out the bores as the engine was totally flooded. Started first time after that.
Dry plugs and bores and a fully charged battery should give you the best chance of starting it. If not then there's something wrong i'd imagine!
Dry plugs and bores and a fully charged battery should give you the best chance of starting it. If not then there's something wrong i'd imagine!
9884booth said:
Trying to check the resistance as you suggest on TRRCC with the ECU plug disconnected and don't seen to get any measured resistance on my avo.
Tried pins 7 and 25 and 25 and 32 but no reading from either.
That indicates a wiring fault or faulty coolant temp sender. High resistance corresponds to a cold reading which would give maximum cold start enrichment.Tried pins 7 and 25 and 25 and 32 but no reading from either.
Removing the plugs and fuel relay then spinning over will aid in clearing out the 'wet lungs' (I always take off the king lead just in case as well, don't like big bangs ) It's a waste of time persevering with these cars once you have flooded them, patience is a real virtue in that case.
Dave
) It's a waste of time persevering with these cars once you have flooded them, patience is a real virtue in that case.Dave
Trying to check the resistance as you suggest on TRRCC with the ECU plug disconnected and don't seen to get any measured resistance on my avo.
Tried pins 7 and 25 and 25 and 32 but no reading from either.
quote]
Do this test the other way around. Use your avo to measure the voltage across the connector on the temp sender, with it unplugged. You should get 5 volts with the ignition on. If you dont something is open circuit. If thats OK, then measure the resistance across the sender directly. Apart from that I peronally I love good old colour tunes, you can then see if you have a spark in the combustion chamber, not just free air, that has a lot less resistance to creating sparks.
Tried pins 7 and 25 and 25 and 32 but no reading from either.
quote]
Do this test the other way around. Use your avo to measure the voltage across the connector on the temp sender, with it unplugged. You should get 5 volts with the ignition on. If you dont something is open circuit. If thats OK, then measure the resistance across the sender directly. Apart from that I peronally I love good old colour tunes, you can then see if you have a spark in the combustion chamber, not just free air, that has a lot less resistance to creating sparks.
I removed the water temp sensor cover and got 3280 ohms across the terminals that sounds about right to me?
Checked the ECU plug again pins 7 and 25 and no reading (max resistance).
This sounds bad?
If the cable was broken or say the connection broken at the sensor plug I guess the engine will think sub zero and increase the mixture. Would this be enough to just flood the engine every time I try and start?
Could I break the wires near the sensor to check whether the bad connection is at the plug or in the cable between the plug and the ECU plug terminals?
If I did, could I just remake with some electrical connectors?
Checked the ECU plug again pins 7 and 25 and no reading (max resistance).
This sounds bad?
If the cable was broken or say the connection broken at the sensor plug I guess the engine will think sub zero and increase the mixture. Would this be enough to just flood the engine every time I try and start?
Could I break the wires near the sensor to check whether the bad connection is at the plug or in the cable between the plug and the ECU plug terminals?
If I did, could I just remake with some electrical connectors?
9884booth said:
I removed the water temp sensor cover and got 3280 ohms across the terminals that sounds about right to me?
Checked the ECU plug again pins 7 and 25 and no reading (max resistance).
This sounds bad?
If the cable was broken or say the connection broken at the sensor plug I guess the engine will think sub zero and increase the mixture. Would this be enough to just flood the engine every time I try and start?
That's a credible reading from the sensor. It should read a bit over 5kOhms at freezing, roughly halving per 20C rise. So 3280 Ohms corresponds to somewhere in the teens, which sounds about right. Checked the ECU plug again pins 7 and 25 and no reading (max resistance).
This sounds bad?
If the cable was broken or say the connection broken at the sensor plug I guess the engine will think sub zero and increase the mixture. Would this be enough to just flood the engine every time I try and start?
I suggest you double check that you have got the right pins on the ECU connector. As a sanity check measure the resistance of the fuel temp sender between pins 32/25. It should read similar to the coolant temp sender. Also do a continuity check between pins 7/25 and the two terminals of the plug to the coolant temp sender. From the sound of it you have a damaged wire or poor contact on one of these wires.
Peter
I Did the continuity check and 25 is showing 0.00 resistance so looks ok, but 7 is showing open connection when contacting the blue wire....so 7 looks to be the problem.
Can I cut the wire at the sensor end to check if it's a broken connection inside the plug or whether it's between the sensor plug outlet and the ECU pin 7. I wiggled the cable at the connection to the plug but got no continuity.
If I cut it can I remake withe a std connector. If the wire is broken within the plug or at the point of entry can I get a new plug (or can it be dismantled and rebuilt having made good the connection?).
Looks like we are getting to the source...fantastic help.
I Did the continuity check and 25 is showing 0.00 resistance so looks ok, but 7 is showing open connection when contacting the blue wire....so 7 looks to be the problem.
Can I cut the wire at the sensor end to check if it's a broken connection inside the plug or whether it's between the sensor plug outlet and the ECU pin 7. I wiggled the cable at the connection to the plug but got no continuity.
If I cut it can I remake withe a std connector. If the wire is broken within the plug or at the point of entry can I get a new plug (or can it be dismantled and rebuilt having made good the connection?).
Looks like we are getting to the source...fantastic help.
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