Partial Body Lift
Discussion
Hi,
Can anyone help with some info about lifting the body a few inches to get a better look at the top of the outrigger tubes?
Do the engine manifolds have to be removed? It looks like the body can be lifted a bit with the manifolds still in place. Has anyone done this and if so can you get enough height to work on the outriggers?
Also if only lifting a few inches as limited by the manifolds, can any of the engine bay connections be left connected i.e. servo vacuum, cabin heater, ECU harness, brake and clutch hydraulics, fuel pipes and battery etc?
If the above is possible, it is now looking like a much more straight forward job. Fuel tank, radiator, centre console and seats out, remove bolts, disconnect steering and lift, supporting body on wood over the chassis frame. Depending on the amount lifted other connections to the speed sensor, fuel pump etc may need their cable ties cut to give more slack or be disconnected.
Has anyone tried this?
Can anyone help with some info about lifting the body a few inches to get a better look at the top of the outrigger tubes?
Do the engine manifolds have to be removed? It looks like the body can be lifted a bit with the manifolds still in place. Has anyone done this and if so can you get enough height to work on the outriggers?
Also if only lifting a few inches as limited by the manifolds, can any of the engine bay connections be left connected i.e. servo vacuum, cabin heater, ECU harness, brake and clutch hydraulics, fuel pipes and battery etc?
If the above is possible, it is now looking like a much more straight forward job. Fuel tank, radiator, centre console and seats out, remove bolts, disconnect steering and lift, supporting body on wood over the chassis frame. Depending on the amount lifted other connections to the speed sensor, fuel pump etc may need their cable ties cut to give more slack or be disconnected.
Has anyone tried this?
There's not a lot you can't see with the body on to ditermine if the outriggers are OK.. If you are looking at lifting, you may as well do them while its up anyway.
Like some others on hear, I've had quite a lot of experience with this problem.
You need to get the car on a lift really.
If you thump and dig everywhere you can get to, scrape out all the mud from around all ends then try sticking a screwdriver through the tubes as hard as you can.
If you can't get it through anywhere, and the rest of the tubes are the same, they are OK.
This is what they will do for an MOT, and if it passes, its should be OK for another year. This is what most people do with their cars, and then wax oil them.
Most TVR specialists will check it out for you for nothing, hoping to get some work if they find some problems, and that fine by me.
As you will see on this forum, some people are up for a project for the winter, and have the space and time to lift the car body right off and then clean the whole chassis up at the same time.
It all depends on what you want to do?
So to answer your question, the simple truth is don't do anything until you find out what needs doing, fist. Go to a specialist and find out. Then come back with what you have found out. We can soon start an argument on hear of what you should do next?????????????/
Like some others on hear, I've had quite a lot of experience with this problem.
You need to get the car on a lift really.
If you thump and dig everywhere you can get to, scrape out all the mud from around all ends then try sticking a screwdriver through the tubes as hard as you can.
If you can't get it through anywhere, and the rest of the tubes are the same, they are OK.
This is what they will do for an MOT, and if it passes, its should be OK for another year. This is what most people do with their cars, and then wax oil them.
Most TVR specialists will check it out for you for nothing, hoping to get some work if they find some problems, and that fine by me.
As you will see on this forum, some people are up for a project for the winter, and have the space and time to lift the car body right off and then clean the whole chassis up at the same time.
It all depends on what you want to do?
So to answer your question, the simple truth is don't do anything until you find out what needs doing, fist. Go to a specialist and find out. Then come back with what you have found out. We can soon start an argument on hear of what you should do next?????????????/
Edited by gadgit on Monday 5th November 17:39
Hi Gadgit,
I’m already at the “what’s next stage”. The car is laid up for the winter, in the garage on high axel stands. The front suspension is stripped, most of which is being replaced. Main chassis is very good; suspension mounting points etc will be cleaned, treated and painted. The outriggers are quite ripe with most of the power coat gone and a small hole at the top of the N/S/F tube. I guess there will be a lot more by next year if it’s left. So it needs to be sorted.
I’m thinking of 3 options, all DIY in order of preference
• Partial lift, cut out outrigger tubes, replace and rust proof before lowering body – hence question about manifolds
• Leave body on; fabricate and rust proof new outrigger sections from main chassis outboard on both sides. Cut off complete old outrigger sections and weld new in place.
• Body off, complete refurbishment but I will struggle with time to get it back on the road next spring.
I’m already at the “what’s next stage”. The car is laid up for the winter, in the garage on high axel stands. The front suspension is stripped, most of which is being replaced. Main chassis is very good; suspension mounting points etc will be cleaned, treated and painted. The outriggers are quite ripe with most of the power coat gone and a small hole at the top of the N/S/F tube. I guess there will be a lot more by next year if it’s left. So it needs to be sorted.
I’m thinking of 3 options, all DIY in order of preference
• Partial lift, cut out outrigger tubes, replace and rust proof before lowering body – hence question about manifolds
• Leave body on; fabricate and rust proof new outrigger sections from main chassis outboard on both sides. Cut off complete old outrigger sections and weld new in place.
• Body off, complete refurbishment but I will struggle with time to get it back on the road next spring.
Bryan, you are in the same position as me.
My chassis is in very good condition, apart from the outriggers.
If you can weld it can be done with the body on with non problem.
Mine is in for this job at the moment at Offord TVR.
The front right is normally the first place to go, on the top just inside where the tube runs into the body recess. Where the mud builds up!!
The Left front will not be quite as bad but will need doing as well, you will probably find.
The left middle section and tube to the chassis can be in good condition (mine is) and the back left can also be better than the right rear section. This appears to be common, according to Offords welder.
The advantage of this repair is that you do whats required at the time.
Cut out the tubes back to the good point, make up the replacement corner with a new plate and cut a piece out of both joints for the welder to fit inside.
Tack weld from inside at the top and work round. Tack some stripps inside to assist in the strength.
when you finish inside (you can't do outside of course) you then fill in the hole with an infil and weld it it nicely. Grind off and paint up whay you can. Stronger than the original tubes apparently.
If you cant do offord TVR will for about £250 a corner.
If only I could weld, I'd do this myself.
I'll be posting some pics of my repairs when it comes back this weekend (hopefully)
Boy am I looking forward to driving it again.
I reckon its possible to weld up a complete side section and then fit it in as described in one gbig lump and weld four joints up and its done. but I'm not a welder. The pics will help when I get them!!
My chassis is in very good condition, apart from the outriggers.
If you can weld it can be done with the body on with non problem.
Mine is in for this job at the moment at Offord TVR.
The front right is normally the first place to go, on the top just inside where the tube runs into the body recess. Where the mud builds up!!
The Left front will not be quite as bad but will need doing as well, you will probably find.
The left middle section and tube to the chassis can be in good condition (mine is) and the back left can also be better than the right rear section. This appears to be common, according to Offords welder.
The advantage of this repair is that you do whats required at the time.
Cut out the tubes back to the good point, make up the replacement corner with a new plate and cut a piece out of both joints for the welder to fit inside.
Tack weld from inside at the top and work round. Tack some stripps inside to assist in the strength.
when you finish inside (you can't do outside of course) you then fill in the hole with an infil and weld it it nicely. Grind off and paint up whay you can. Stronger than the original tubes apparently.
If you cant do offord TVR will for about £250 a corner.
If only I could weld, I'd do this myself.
I'll be posting some pics of my repairs when it comes back this weekend (hopefully)
Boy am I looking forward to driving it again.
I reckon its possible to weld up a complete side section and then fit it in as described in one gbig lump and weld four joints up and its done. but I'm not a welder. The pics will help when I get them!!
Here you go. Found this, it should hold true for the Chimaera.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Pete
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Pete
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