Alloy Radiator - Worth it or Not?
Discussion
I have a leak in the (original )radiator on my 450 Chim. Just wondered what your thoughts are on replacing it with a new alloy version (supposedly better cooling)...or do I just go re-cored...
Any experience of the former would be useful (cost, where did you get, positives and negatives etc etc)....
Thanks
Any experience of the former would be useful (cost, where did you get, positives and negatives etc etc)....
Thanks
I've no experience of aluminium radiators. Copper and brass have a better thermal coefficient than aluminium but I did read a post on here a while back explaining how an aluminium radiator can work better. I've read about aluminium radiators fracturing, but then I've read as many stories about how good they are.
I got an exchange copper/brass one for around £200 fitted. Others have paid a similar price for their original one recored.
I got an exchange copper/brass one for around £200 fitted. Others have paid a similar price for their original one recored.
Thanks Andy, gives me a bit more to think about/explore. I don't have any problems with cooling - the car has always behaved itself... it's just that as I have to do something with the radiator, I may as well explore the options. I hadn't considered your suggestion, but sounds interesting.
The local TVR importers' workshop put in a recored one with an uprated/thicker core as a matter of course when the radiator needs replacing. Cost difference with a standard exchange one seems to be negligible and the difference in capacity isn't too big as to upset the car's working temperature range (i.e. the car not reaching its optimum operating temperature range when driving normally on colder days).
Cider Andy said:
...Copper and brass have a better thermal coefficient than aluminium ...
Yes, but the brazing that holds them together doesn't. Having thermally efficient fins is one thing, getting them to pull heat out of the cores is another.The downside of aluminium is the expense if/when they get damaged or fracture. Not easy to repair.
Don't be fooled that your rad is made of copper (pure copper is very soft), Copper has good thermal conductivity, aluminium alloys are not a great deal different, brass & bronze are rubbish! Aluminium far exceeds copper in mechanical strength, hence can be made in thinner cross section. Google is your friend 
As far as radiators go I think some of the previous comments were just small minded b011ox
A good recored rad is perfectly adequate, an alloy rad will cool better but is probably not as maintainable.
IMHO PeteH has told you all how to improve your cooling if you have been taking any notice
His subtle hints about remote stats makes a lot more sense than uprated rads, trick fans, holes in bodywork, big stats....
Dave
As far as radiators go I think some of the previous comments were just small minded b011ox
A good recored rad is perfectly adequate, an alloy rad will cool better but is probably not as maintainable.
IMHO PeteH has told you all how to improve your cooling if you have been taking any notice
His subtle hints about remote stats makes a lot more sense than uprated rads, trick fans, holes in bodywork, big stats....Dave
spend said:
As far as radiators go I think some of the previous comments were just small minded b011ox
Ok, so I got the bit about brass having better thermal conductivity than copper wrong: so what? Only the end tanks are brass, the core's copper.The OP asked a simple question about whether to replace his leaking radiator with the same, or go for an aluminium one. I've read all the replies and cannot see what your 'small minded' comment refers to.
I went the uprated re-core route for the 5.4; after some enquiries I looked at it this way:
Uprate - £176, two day turnaround, two year warranty, guaranteed to fit, looks original, simple to repair.
Alu Alloy - £400+, purchasers having to 'file/saw/trim/faff with' to fit (Griff anyway), not so simple to repair, probably less resiliant to impact and vibration.
Uprate - £176, two day turnaround, two year warranty, guaranteed to fit, looks original, simple to repair.
Alu Alloy - £400+, purchasers having to 'file/saw/trim/faff with' to fit (Griff anyway), not so simple to repair, probably less resiliant to impact and vibration.
Sorry, wasn't particularly aimed at this thread, but its been muted several times before (the intimation about copper"ish" rads having better conductivity than ally)
I think you guys were about right, good re-core is fine, if you want the ultimate cooling (but less reliability + greater expense) then aluminium. Racers will always pick ally for its better performance, most of them are not stupid
Dave
I think you guys were about right, good re-core is fine, if you want the ultimate cooling (but less reliability + greater expense) then aluminium. Racers will always pick ally for its better performance, most of them are not stupid
Dave
Had a knackered rad not too long ago and changed to the Alloy.
Not cheap, but they are significantly lighter than the original.
Also I can confirm that on my car at least the alloy reduces the running temps by 10 degrees.
On motorways mine usually ran at 70, now 60. Also, fans don't kick in quite so early as takes longer to get to that temp.
As for fitting, the original was a b@gger to get out, but the alloy slotted straight in without absolutely no difficulties.
Coupe of months in and very happy with the change (closing eyes to cost), but only time will tell how long it'll last. - Although according to Tim at ACT, only 1 has ever been returned and that was probably because it was dropped..
Not cheap, but they are significantly lighter than the original.
Also I can confirm that on my car at least the alloy reduces the running temps by 10 degrees.
On motorways mine usually ran at 70, now 60. Also, fans don't kick in quite so early as takes longer to get to that temp.
As for fitting, the original was a b@gger to get out, but the alloy slotted straight in without absolutely no difficulties.
Coupe of months in and very happy with the change (closing eyes to cost), but only time will tell how long it'll last. - Although according to Tim at ACT, only 1 has ever been returned and that was probably because it was dropped..
I had mine re-cored recently and also noticed a drop in running temp. The old rad was 7 years old and had done 60,000 miles and was well knackered! Replacement re-cored one was sprayed matt black and looked fab, like new, and was much more efficient than the old one. Old was was a bugger to get out, two man job. Just needs a good wiggle though. New one went in much easier. If they resist too much you can just file down the connecting plate things.
Cost was about £150.
david
Cost was about £150.
david
My 400 never overheated with the standard radiator, but when the core started to leak and i accidently stripped the thread of the bleed screw from the radiator itself, i opted for a new alloy one from ACT.
Had it a couple of years now and running temps are at least 10 degrees lower. In the winter on faster roads, it struggles to get over about 55c, and only manages about 70c on slower roads.
In the summer, it barely moves from about 75c and only ever gets to about 85-90c in the hottest of weather in slow traffic.
Pretty confident that it will be able to cope with a potential TVR Power turbo in a year or two.
Had it a couple of years now and running temps are at least 10 degrees lower. In the winter on faster roads, it struggles to get over about 55c, and only manages about 70c on slower roads.
In the summer, it barely moves from about 75c and only ever gets to about 85-90c in the hottest of weather in slow traffic.
Pretty confident that it will be able to cope with a potential TVR Power turbo in a year or two.
jsr said:
My 400 never overheated with the standard radiator, but when the core started to leak and i accidently stripped the thread of the bleed screw from the radiator itself, i opted for a new alloy one from ACT.
Had it a couple of years now and running temps are at least 10 degrees lower. In the winter on faster roads, it struggles to get over about 55c, and only manages about 70c on slower roads.
In the summer, it barely moves from about 75c and only ever gets to about 85-90c in the hottest of weather in slow traffic.
Pretty confident that it will be able to cope with a potential TVR Power turbo in a year or two.
You're thermostat has packed up mate, it should stay at 75 - 80 degrees unless stationary at which point the temp will rise to about 90 when the fans kick in.Had it a couple of years now and running temps are at least 10 degrees lower. In the winter on faster roads, it struggles to get over about 55c, and only manages about 70c on slower roads.
In the summer, it barely moves from about 75c and only ever gets to about 85-90c in the hottest of weather in slow traffic.
Pretty confident that it will be able to cope with a potential TVR Power turbo in a year or two.
I know this because i have changed mine twice in the last three years!!
Andy
Else said:
jsr said:
My 400 never overheated with the standard radiator, but when the core started to leak and i accidently stripped the thread of the bleed screw from the radiator itself, i opted for a new alloy one from ACT.
Had it a couple of years now and running temps are at least 10 degrees lower. In the winter on faster roads, it struggles to get over about 55c, and only manages about 70c on slower roads.
In the summer, it barely moves from about 75c and only ever gets to about 85-90c in the hottest of weather in slow traffic.
Pretty confident that it will be able to cope with a potential TVR Power turbo in a year or two.
You're thermostat has packed up mate, it should stay at 75 - 80 degrees unless stationary at which point the temp will rise to about 90 when the fans kick in.Had it a couple of years now and running temps are at least 10 degrees lower. In the winter on faster roads, it struggles to get over about 55c, and only manages about 70c on slower roads.
In the summer, it barely moves from about 75c and only ever gets to about 85-90c in the hottest of weather in slow traffic.
Pretty confident that it will be able to cope with a potential TVR Power turbo in a year or two.
I know this because i have changed mine twice in the last three years!!
Andy
jsr said:
Else said:
jsr said:
My 400 never overheated with the standard radiator, but when the core started to leak and i accidently stripped the thread of the bleed screw from the radiator itself, i opted for a new alloy one from ACT.
Had it a couple of years now and running temps are at least 10 degrees lower. In the winter on faster roads, it struggles to get over about 55c, and only manages about 70c on slower roads.
In the summer, it barely moves from about 75c and only ever gets to about 85-90c in the hottest of weather in slow traffic.
Pretty confident that it will be able to cope with a potential TVR Power turbo in a year or two.
You're thermostat has packed up mate, it should stay at 75 - 80 degrees unless stationary at which point the temp will rise to about 90 when the fans kick in.Had it a couple of years now and running temps are at least 10 degrees lower. In the winter on faster roads, it struggles to get over about 55c, and only manages about 70c on slower roads.
In the summer, it barely moves from about 75c and only ever gets to about 85-90c in the hottest of weather in slow traffic.
Pretty confident that it will be able to cope with a potential TVR Power turbo in a year or two.
I know this because i have changed mine twice in the last three years!!
Andy
I suspect your thermostat isn't closing correctly therfore allowing water to circulate even when the temp has dropped significantly.
While this isn't really bad for your engine it won't be at it's optimum running temp, also i beleive the standard ecu will think the engine is still in it's warm up phase and will richen the mixture to compensate. I could be wrong on this, i'm sure more knowledgeable will be along soon to correct me.
I have an alloy radiator and a new 82 degree stat which works exactly as i have explained above, (but there is still a problem the temp cycling beteween 70 -90 when the heater is on cold but i think that is a seperate problem).
Andy
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