Cam inspection
Discussion
I actually have a 1992 V8S 4 litre pre serp non cross bolted etc etc you get the picture, but I guess I'm going to come across more V8 knowledge on here than the S forum - no offence S forum buddies.
I'm in the process of stripping it for a chassis refurb, and while its apart I planned to remove the valley gasket (which is looking very sorry anyway) in order to try and have a look at the cam.
Is this feasible? Will I get a good view of the cam this way?
Any tips / pointers appreciated.
Overall the engine runs well and inside the rocker covers there is beautiful golden oil with not a hint of dirt or sludge, infact it looks like new without any staining of the metal at all. Its even pretty good on fuel.
It has covered 66000 miles which makes me think I should at least have a look.
Chris
I'm in the process of stripping it for a chassis refurb, and while its apart I planned to remove the valley gasket (which is looking very sorry anyway) in order to try and have a look at the cam.
Is this feasible? Will I get a good view of the cam this way?
Any tips / pointers appreciated.
Overall the engine runs well and inside the rocker covers there is beautiful golden oil with not a hint of dirt or sludge, infact it looks like new without any staining of the metal at all. Its even pretty good on fuel.
It has covered 66000 miles which makes me think I should at least have a look.
Chris
Edited by Barkychoc on Saturday 22 December 17:14
Apart from the valley gasket you will have to take the rockers cover off at least, and unbolt the rocker shaft. You can then pull the push rods out,(dont get them mixed up or swapped end over end) and then lift out one or more cam followers, and inspect the load surfaces. Theres some nice pictures on the RPI web site of follower wear. I should think if the followers show wear, the cam will as be worn as well, as the contact surfaces wear together. You must always replace cam and followers together, and make sure you use genuine parts. (Dont go for the ebay cheapies)
Mark
Mark
blitzracing said:
Apart from the valley gasket you will have to take the rockers cover off at least, and unbolt the rocker shaft. You can then pull the push rods out,(dont get them mixed up or swapped end over end) and then lift out one or more cam followers, and inspect the load surfaces. Theres some nice pictures on the RPI web site of follower wear. I should think if the followers show wear, the cam will as be worn as well, as the contact surfaces wear together. You must always replace cam and followers together, and make sure you use genuine parts. (Dont go for the ebay cheapies)
Mark
Thanks Guys - I'll have it apart in the next few weeks and post some pics for your perusal...Mark
Chris
You would be surprised how well a car can run with a worn cam, mine was only highlighted on the rolling road peak power came in too low and not enough of it due to reduced valve lift.
Here are the new and old cams side by side.
As you can see, the cam is not visible without removing it.
Mine was at 57k
Here are the new and old cams side by side.
As you can see, the cam is not visible without removing it.
Mine was at 57k
Is it wise to do a cam & followers swap only - i.e. leave the heads on etc or would you strip it & inspect the entire engine?
If I need to go down the replacement cam route I'd prefer to keep costs down by replacing the cam & lifters only if thats a wise thing to do as I'm also doing a chassis refurb.
My uncle is a retired HGV mechanic and I'm going to borrow a dial gauge off him first to measure the valve lift.
I guess the best plan is to do that first and see what it shows.
Chris
If I need to go down the replacement cam route I'd prefer to keep costs down by replacing the cam & lifters only if thats a wise thing to do as I'm also doing a chassis refurb.
My uncle is a retired HGV mechanic and I'm going to borrow a dial gauge off him first to measure the valve lift.
I guess the best plan is to do that first and see what it shows.
Chris
66k miles isn't particularly high mileage and there's no reason to go for a full rebuild unless there's something wrong. I would suggest a compression and leakdown test to check the valves and bores are not badly damaged, if you feel like dropping the sump you could check the mains and big end clearances but if the oil pressure is still healthy I'd suggest leaving well alone until you get a problem.
Oil pressure is great, it always starts immediately even if I've left it for a few weeks, the only thing I'd say is that at the moment its running very rich at idle particularly when cold, though from other posts I've read don't alot of the V8's do that anyway?
I've done the static CO setting as on the RPi website at the upper end (1.5v IIRC) as I reckoned better to rich than too weak.
A full tune is on the wishlist too.
If I hadn't read posts saying how short the camshaft life can be I wouldn't have given it a second thought - the service history and engine condition (inside rocker covers) looks like it has been well looked after with regular oil changes but I guess this may not mean anything.
Chris
I've done the static CO setting as on the RPi website at the upper end (1.5v IIRC) as I reckoned better to rich than too weak.
A full tune is on the wishlist too.
If I hadn't read posts saying how short the camshaft life can be I wouldn't have given it a second thought - the service history and engine condition (inside rocker covers) looks like it has been well looked after with regular oil changes but I guess this may not mean anything.
Chris
Heres how I did it, but this is without rockers etc.I used a bike spoke to extend the DTI shaft. The DTI is mounted on a right angled bracket into one of the rocker mounting threads with a nut as spacer.
http://www.g33.co.uk/images/No1DTI.JPG
http://www.g33.co.uk/images/No1DTI.JPG
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