Very heavy steering
Discussion
Hello out there,
I am living in Germany and since 2 days I am the proud owner of a 94 4L Chim. it took me a long time to find the right one, but finally I was lucky. Since driving it back home I have the biggest ever grin in my face, which (according to my better half) even stays while I am sleeping.
my car is without PAS and has of course a heavy steering when standing still, but what puzzles me is even when driving at 30-50 mph or more you still need two arms and a lot of power to turn the wheel into the direction you want to go. Also the previous owner told me that he changed the tire pressures to 2,5 bar (front) and 2,1 bar (rear) for easier handling/steering. According to the drivers handbook, this is totally wrong. I think he pumped up the front tires so much to make them more round( resulting is a smaller contact patch)for easier steering. So do I have to visit a gym on a weekly basis, or is the geo of the frontend totally wrong? I would be very thankful for any suggestions.
I am living in Germany and since 2 days I am the proud owner of a 94 4L Chim. it took me a long time to find the right one, but finally I was lucky. Since driving it back home I have the biggest ever grin in my face, which (according to my better half) even stays while I am sleeping.
my car is without PAS and has of course a heavy steering when standing still, but what puzzles me is even when driving at 30-50 mph or more you still need two arms and a lot of power to turn the wheel into the direction you want to go. Also the previous owner told me that he changed the tire pressures to 2,5 bar (front) and 2,1 bar (rear) for easier handling/steering. According to the drivers handbook, this is totally wrong. I think he pumped up the front tires so much to make them more round( resulting is a smaller contact patch)for easier steering. So do I have to visit a gym on a weekly basis, or is the geo of the frontend totally wrong? I would be very thankful for any suggestions.
Edited by Krautchimaera on Monday 24th December 11:17
They are not light but should not be unduly hard to steer. You really should only be aware of the heaviness when parking.
Its probably best to get the front wheels off the ground and turn the steering to check that the steering Universal Joints and rack move freely. Then check the geometry of the car.
I don't think the contact patch will be your problem, many of us run 225 front tyres without PAS. The cars can be transformed back to new by replacing a lot of the ball joints, track rod ends, bushes... which may be quite worn. Early cars also have 2 piece top wishbones which it is well worth replacing (if they haven't been already).
Dave
Its probably best to get the front wheels off the ground and turn the steering to check that the steering Universal Joints and rack move freely. Then check the geometry of the car.
I don't think the contact patch will be your problem, many of us run 225 front tyres without PAS. The cars can be transformed back to new by replacing a lot of the ball joints, track rod ends, bushes... which may be quite worn. Early cars also have 2 piece top wishbones which it is well worth replacing (if they haven't been already).
Dave
Hi Bernd,
Welcome to the world of TVR ownership!
I would certainly reduce those pressures. They should be 1.65 bar(Front) and 1.8 bar(Rear) according to a imperial/metric conversion chart I've found (equating to 24 and 26 psi respectively).
I too have a non-PAS car, and steering's only noticeably heavy when parking.
Welcome to the world of TVR ownership!
I would certainly reduce those pressures. They should be 1.65 bar(Front) and 1.8 bar(Rear) according to a imperial/metric conversion chart I've found (equating to 24 and 26 psi respectively).
I too have a non-PAS car, and steering's only noticeably heavy when parking.
Had the same problem even with PAS, too much friction in certain parts of the steering mechanism.
Apart from checking UJ's and track rod ends also check the steering rack for stiffness. Remove the plate above the pinion and check the inside for wear and lubrication.
Feeling and handling improved greatly by the now much lighter steering.
Gruss aus Hamburg,
Stefan
Apart from checking UJ's and track rod ends also check the steering rack for stiffness. Remove the plate above the pinion and check the inside for wear and lubrication.
Feeling and handling improved greatly by the now much lighter steering.
Gruss aus Hamburg,
Stefan
Hello Paul,
first of all thank you very much for for your warm welcome. Today I put my chim on the car lift and moved the wheels from lock to lock by hand.
The force needed to do so is the same as with all other cars, definately not excessive. I noted though, that when on the lift with the dampers fully extended, the wheels are stopped from tuning lock to lock by the tires scratching the rear lowest corner of the front wheel arch. is this the same with all chims?
Also I checked the movement of the steering wheel. from lock to lock my car has just 1 1/2 to 1 2/3 of a turn, definately not 2 turns as it says in the book. Maybe a different steering has been fitted in the past? how can I identify the right component?
first of all thank you very much for for your warm welcome. Today I put my chim on the car lift and moved the wheels from lock to lock by hand.
The force needed to do so is the same as with all other cars, definately not excessive. I noted though, that when on the lift with the dampers fully extended, the wheels are stopped from tuning lock to lock by the tires scratching the rear lowest corner of the front wheel arch. is this the same with all chims?
Also I checked the movement of the steering wheel. from lock to lock my car has just 1 1/2 to 1 2/3 of a turn, definately not 2 turns as it says in the book. Maybe a different steering has been fitted in the past? how can I identify the right component?
Hope not, it won't like being run dry.
Well, I have just returned from my garage and had the Chim on the lift.
it is definately not an PAS steering that is used without the pump.
Still I wonder why the steering is so extremly heavy.
with the car on the lift, you can turn the wheel with the little finger.
but when driving the car, there is very little difference between the car standing still and the car on the move, steering is extremly heavy and I am not a jockey type of man ( 6ft 4" and 17 stone).
also when the car is on the lift, from lock to lock only 1.6 turns, not like it says in the book. any advise ??
it is definately not an PAS steering that is used without the pump.
Still I wonder why the steering is so extremly heavy.
with the car on the lift, you can turn the wheel with the little finger.
but when driving the car, there is very little difference between the car standing still and the car on the move, steering is extremly heavy and I am not a jockey type of man ( 6ft 4" and 17 stone).
also when the car is on the lift, from lock to lock only 1.6 turns, not like it says in the book. any advise ??
If it is only turning 1.6 it sounds like you need the rack sorting. I would be tempted to remove the TRE's and just make sure the rack still has limited travel in isolation (you will need to disconnect them to get the rack out anyway). Recondition or replacement are your options 
Dave
Dave
Krautchimaera said:
Is the steering rack unique to the TVR or will o rack from a certain model Ford, Vauxhaul or whatever fit ?
Steering rack is a TVR part. According to the service documentation I have with the car, TMS invoiced the grand sum of 67.50 plus VAT for a recon rack a couple of years ago, so it's not all bad... Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff