Running a bit cold?
Discussion
Cracking hoon down to Goodwood this morning but should have wrapped up warmer. Is it normal for temp gauge to run at 50-60 while zooming along and only pick up to 80-90 when crawling or stationary? Certainly some heat from the vents but not enough to keep warm.
My MX5 always kept me toasty roof down!
Could it be because the number plate has been moved below the grill on mine?
My MX5 always kept me toasty roof down!
Could it be because the number plate has been moved below the grill on mine?
Automental said:
Cracking hoon down to Goodwood this morning but should have wrapped up warmer. Is it normal for temp gauge to run at 50-60 while zooming along and only pick up to 80-90 when crawling or stationary? Certainly some heat from the vents but not enough to keep warm.
My MX5 always kept me toasty roof down!
Could it be because the number plate has been moved below the grill on mine?
What's the about what I'm seeing in this weather at the moment. Any time I get some speed up the engine temperature drop to 60/65. When I slow right down it warms up. Basically the cold air through the rad and engine compartment is keeping things very cool.My MX5 always kept me toasty roof down!
Could it be because the number plate has been moved below the grill on mine?
It could well be the TVR temp sender - it's at the end of a dead-end piece of pipe and in the airflow, so it gets artificially cooled. At the weekend I knocked up the mod to use the 'spare' Land Rover sender which is actually in the coolant flow, and lo and behold I had stable readings (back to 75 as opposed to just over 60 when on the move).
It's worth doing a few checks to ensure that there isn't a proper problem, but IMO most of these low readings at this time of year are due to the above.
It's worth doing a few checks to ensure that there isn't a proper problem, but IMO most of these low readings at this time of year are due to the above.
Slacey said:
It could well be the TVR temp sender - it's at the end of a dead-end piece of pipe and in the airflow, so it gets artificially cooled. At the weekend I knocked up the mod to use the 'spare' Land Rover sender which is actually in the coolant flow, and lo and behold I had stable readings (back to 75 as opposed to just over 60 when on the move).
It's worth doing a few checks to ensure that there isn't a proper problem, but IMO most of these low readings at this time of year are due to the above.
Do you mean the car has two senders and you can choose either?It's worth doing a few checks to ensure that there isn't a proper problem, but IMO most of these low readings at this time of year are due to the above.
Could you elaborate a bit?
Maybe the other option is to put a bit of foil over the radiator- bit Heath Robinson I know!
The sender the car uses as standard is tucked down behind the distributor sitting horizontally. If you take a look you will just see it, with a single wire connected to it. If you look up and right of this sender, you will see two more senders on the plenum base (serp only engines I should add) sitting vertically. One will be connected with two wires in a proper block connector (this is the ECU temp sender) and the other will be unconnected; gold in colour with a green ring around it and a bullet connection on top. This is the spare Land Rover sender that can be used. The simple mos is to take the wire off the TVR sender behind the dizzy, then make up a wire for the LR sender like this: Male spade connector > bit of wire > 2w 180ohm fixed or 200ohm variable resistor > bit of wire > female bullet connector. Pop the section you made onto the wire from the loom and then onto the LR sender and job done.
I would strongly recommend that you check the sender temps with an IR thermometer as well to ensure that what the guage is reading is reasonably accurate though, don't assume that the mod is giving accurate readings from the off. Mine was fine, as were many others that have done this.
If you don't fancy making up the connection, David Beer can supply a ready made variable version here - www.mod-wise.co.uk
I would strongly recommend that you check the sender temps with an IR thermometer as well to ensure that what the guage is reading is reasonably accurate though, don't assume that the mod is giving accurate readings from the off. Mine was fine, as were many others that have done this.
If you don't fancy making up the connection, David Beer can supply a ready made variable version here - www.mod-wise.co.uk
Automental said:
Is it normal for temp gauge to run at 50-60 while zooming along and only pick up to 80-90 when crawling or stationary? Certainly some heat from the vents but not enough to keep warm.
It's worth remembering that the heater matrix bypasses the thermostat. In cold weather when cruising along it's possible that the heater matrix alone, plus the bleed hole in the thermostat are more than capable of keeping the coolant temperature below it's 'normal' level.However, the heater should still be hot. Perhaps your thermostat is not closing properly (this seems fairly common)? If you start the car from cold and hold the top hose (between the water pump and swirl pot) it should stay more or less stone cold and then heat up rapidly as the thermostat opens. If it heats up gradually with the engine it's not closing properly.
Also the temperature gauge should only be used as a guide. Keep an eye on how it behaves normally then investigate if it starts behaving differently. I recently fitted a new thermostat. It opens normally, according to the test I described above, but the gauge was only reading 55°C!
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