Removing Chimaera body in small garage
Discussion
Hi All, Please can anyone help me. I am in the middle off replacing my front wish-bones, Bushing and upgrading my brakes BUT the more i look underneath the car the more i would like to remove the body and get the chassis back up to scratch, So can anyone give me some advice. Any help/advice would be great. Thanks Simon
P.S i would prefer to leave the engine in place if possible
P.S i would prefer to leave the engine in place if possible
Parry said:
Hi All, Please can anyone help me. I am in the middle off replacing my front wish-bones, Bushing and upgrading my brakes BUT the more i look underneath the car the more i would like to remove the body and get the chassis back up to scratch, So can anyone give me some advice. Any help/advice would be great. Thanks Simon
P.S i would prefer to leave the engine in place if possible
Perfectly do-able.P.S i would prefer to leave the engine in place if possible
Lift the body off outside the garage leaving all the running gear in place and the roll the chassis in to strip it down....or lift the body off the car inside the garage and use two large peices of wood to support the body.
Parry said:
Hi All, Please can anyone help me. I am in the middle off replacing my front wish-bones, Bushing and upgrading my brakes BUT the more i look underneath the car the more i would like to remove the body and get the chassis back up to scratch, So can anyone give me some advice. Any help/advice would be great. Thanks Simon
P.S i would prefer to leave the engine in place if possible
Mail me and I'll send yot details of what you need to doP.S i would prefer to leave the engine in place if possible
On a Griff you can do a 2" body raise in a single garage leaving the exhausts/brakes/looms in place. It's not nice, but it can be done as I'm half way through it at the moment.
I don't know if it actually saves any time leaving the body in situ but if you've got nowhere to put it it's a viable solution.
I don't know if it actually saves any time leaving the body in situ but if you've got nowhere to put it it's a viable solution.
jellison said:
drop the headers and disconnect the steering rack (at the swivel under the wing and you can get 3x that)
The rack is disconnected on mine, you can't get the body clear of the outriggers with it connected. It's the headers that prevent any further raising but it's definitely do-able without disturbing them.Like I say, it's tight and debatable if it's actually any quicker when you take everything into consideration but it's another option if you're painting/maintaining outriggers.
TheGriffalo said:
jellison said:
drop the headers and disconnect the steering rack (at the swivel under the wing and you can get 3x that)
The rack is disconnected on mine, you can't get the body clear of the outriggers with it connected. It's the headers that prevent any further raising but it's definitely do-able without disturbing them.Like I say, it's tight and debatable if it's actually any quicker when you take everything into consideration but it's another option if you're painting/maintaining outriggers.
jellison said:
TheGriffalo said:
jellison said:
drop the headers and disconnect the steering rack (at the swivel under the wing and you can get 3x that)
The rack is disconnected on mine, you can't get the body clear of the outriggers with it connected. It's the headers that prevent any further raising but it's definitely do-able without disturbing them.Like I say, it's tight and debatable if it's actually any quicker when you take everything into consideration but it's another option if you're painting/maintaining outriggers.
I'll give you a clue, you won't know because you've never actually tried using this method, have you?
TheGriffalo said:
jellison said:
TheGriffalo said:
jellison said:
drop the headers and disconnect the steering rack (at the swivel under the wing and you can get 3x that)
The rack is disconnected on mine, you can't get the body clear of the outriggers with it connected. It's the headers that prevent any further raising but it's definitely do-able without disturbing them.Like I say, it's tight and debatable if it's actually any quicker when you take everything into consideration but it's another option if you're painting/maintaining outriggers.
I'll give you a clue, you won't know because you've never actually tried using this method, have you?
No that is not rust it is some sticky crap on the top rails. No you do not need the engine out (I just diod not want it anymore, but the header off will have it able to go up the same amount as here.
Trying to help here......
andy-w said:
Jellison - How come you had the body off? That chassis looks fine...?
I would go full body lift every time...!!!
Saves crawling around on the floor but then each to their own!!!
Yes my body was in very good nick, but alot of surface cracking of the paint and surface rust starting to appeal (I think the car had lived outside for at least a few years before I got it and built a garage to house it.I would go full body lift every time...!!!
Saves crawling around on the floor but then each to their own!!!
I had the engine out for opbvious reasons - check my Profile
Had a 10 day window waiting on some parts so decide that it really should be done to be up to the same std as the Chevy Conversion.
Garage longe enough for Chim and a Real Mini with 6" between front middle and back. Mini Gone now - Chim in March (maybe).
jellison said:
Parry said:
Hi All, Please can anyone help me. I am in the middle off replacing my front wish-bones, Bushing and upgrading my brakes BUT the more i look underneath the car the more i would like to remove the body and get the chassis back up to scratch, So can anyone give me some advice. Any help/advice would be great. Thanks Simon
P.S i would prefer to leave the engine in place if possible
Mail me and I'll send yot details of what you need to doP.S i would prefer to leave the engine in place if possible
I'd be interested in seeing what is involved if you could mail me too please.
I doubt if i could get the chassis done under my current insurance claim
I've PM'd you with my address
Jellison,
To do a "proper" job the whole car needs stripping down and the chassis should be blasted then galvanised... Anything else isn't a "proper" job IMO.
The point about the 2" raise is it is an alternative method that allows chassis maintenance with the bare minimum of facilities in a very tight space with limited clearance under the car and zero external storage.
The purpose of the exercise is to allow owners the choice of methods to maintain their P&J depending on what suits. It's not about doing it your way necessarily. This method allows a single person working alone to do the entire job with nothing more sophisticated than three jacks, some wooden blocks and a bit of patience.
It is an arse to do, but it demonstrates that it can be done. It's also possible to weld in new outriggers using a 2" lift.
To do a "proper" job the whole car needs stripping down and the chassis should be blasted then galvanised... Anything else isn't a "proper" job IMO.
The point about the 2" raise is it is an alternative method that allows chassis maintenance with the bare minimum of facilities in a very tight space with limited clearance under the car and zero external storage.
The purpose of the exercise is to allow owners the choice of methods to maintain their P&J depending on what suits. It's not about doing it your way necessarily. This method allows a single person working alone to do the entire job with nothing more sophisticated than three jacks, some wooden blocks and a bit of patience.
It is an arse to do, but it demonstrates that it can be done. It's also possible to weld in new outriggers using a 2" lift.
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