Engine bay heat sheilds
Discussion
Has anyone bothered to renew the side engine panels as mine are somewhat wrn and nearer the manifolds are cracking and lifting slightly..
I am wondering if I can get something to go over the existing ones which are no doubt glued and rivetted. Do you think this can be done in situ?
Have just completed the wishbone and outrigger cleanup (13 yr old chassis, I last did it 8yrs ago) and before sending to Offords for service and cherry bombing i would like to clean up the engine bay..I have noticed on some of the excellent engine detailing threads that some have a refective material on the induction tube which if done carefully looks quite good. If any one has previous experience of this I would appreciate a steer...
Thanks
I am wondering if I can get something to go over the existing ones which are no doubt glued and rivetted. Do you think this can be done in situ?
Have just completed the wishbone and outrigger cleanup (13 yr old chassis, I last did it 8yrs ago) and before sending to Offords for service and cherry bombing i would like to clean up the engine bay..I have noticed on some of the excellent engine detailing threads that some have a refective material on the induction tube which if done carefully looks quite good. If any one has previous experience of this I would appreciate a steer...
Thanks
timshap said:
Has anyone bothered to renew the side engine panels as mine are somewhat wrn and nearer the manifolds are cracking and lifting slightly..
I have noticed on some of the excellent engine detailing threads that some have a refective material on the induction tube which if done carefully looks quite good. If any one has previous experience of this I would appreciate a steer...
Thanks
I replaced the heat sheild in my engine bay but i had the engine out...along with the chassis and everything else!!!I have noticed on some of the excellent engine detailing threads that some have a refective material on the induction tube which if done carefully looks quite good. If any one has previous experience of this I would appreciate a steer...
Thanks
I have got a heat sheild sleve on my induction tube that i made myself....even got the TVR logo sewn into it...!!!
the trouble is they go quite a way into the start of the tunnel as well so you have to get past the manifold and then the top chassis tubes!!!
I used proper fibreglass backed heatshield matting...i got it from these guys www.nfauto.co.uk not the best website in the world but they do heat matting for £25 per sq meter which is a more realistic price compared to some suppliers...1 sq meter is enough to do both inner wings and have some left over to make an induction sleves.
I used proper fibreglass backed heatshield matting...i got it from these guys www.nfauto.co.uk not the best website in the world but they do heat matting for £25 per sq meter which is a more realistic price compared to some suppliers...1 sq meter is enough to do both inner wings and have some left over to make an induction sleves.
I found a very interesting product while looking for heat sheilds for the exhaust. The company are very helpful and even sent a sample out to me very quickly.
They're called Sheild Developments Limited based in Birmingham. Contact number is 0121 608 3854.
I will get photos of the belt heat shields when they're fitted and will consider using when the old stuff needs renewing.
Its easily shaped and flexible but is much more pleasing to the eye than the standard stuff.
They're called Sheild Developments Limited based in Birmingham. Contact number is 0121 608 3854.
I will get photos of the belt heat shields when they're fitted and will consider using when the old stuff needs renewing.
Its easily shaped and flexible but is much more pleasing to the eye than the standard stuff.
The stuff is called Nimbus and is excellent stuff. I used it throughout the Cerbera.
Very expensive though... cost around £350 for the Cerb. Doesn't stick well so I had to rivet it in place.
Needs to be rigidly mounted though because it is made from very thin ally and prone to fracturing. Also remember as it is ally, it melts so don't stick it on the exhaust! To work best it needs to maintain an air gap.


Very expensive though... cost around £350 for the Cerb. Doesn't stick well so I had to rivet it in place.
Needs to be rigidly mounted though because it is made from very thin ally and prone to fracturing. Also remember as it is ally, it melts so don't stick it on the exhaust! To work best it needs to maintain an air gap.


Edited by shpub on Wednesday 23 January 09:44
Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff


