74 or 82 deg stat?
Discussion
I run them at different times of years. 74 in the summer and 82 in the winter.
No noticeable difference in performance at all . . .
I also now drill a 3mm hole in the top of the thermostat to assist in moving air locks and allowing some flow through the system, especially during winter when the stat may be caused not to open due to ambient temps. Picked this tip up from Joolz as most stat's these days do not seem to have a bypass hole at all ...
No noticeable difference in performance at all . . .
I also now drill a 3mm hole in the top of the thermostat to assist in moving air locks and allowing some flow through the system, especially during winter when the stat may be caused not to open due to ambient temps. Picked this tip up from Joolz as most stat's these days do not seem to have a bypass hole at all ...
spend said:
That Daddy said:
..your right Spend, most stats ..
I didn't say anything, just seems that like me Johnno thinks its as easy to use winter & summer stats
He probably won't get ridiculed like me tho 
(we can tell who the wusses with short legs & throttle cables are!
)Dave
@johno
changing summer/winter is an option, but I don't do much driving in wintertime, so might stay with a 74 stat all year round. Good tip with the bypass hole!
Engine builders seem to prefer the lower stat temp, thats why I'm planning to go for the 74 deg opening temp along with a 80/75 otter switch.
changing summer/winter is an option, but I don't do much driving in wintertime, so might stay with a 74 stat all year round. Good tip with the bypass hole!
Engine builders seem to prefer the lower stat temp, thats why I'm planning to go for the 74 deg opening temp along with a 80/75 otter switch.
Edited by stefan1200 on Friday 15th February 10:48
The difficulty of a 74 stat ina TVR is the ECU setting.
At a given temp the ECU changes the set up, by running the colder stat you may not trigger this change which will effect performance for the worse as I understand.
Post Emerald install I will possibly run a 74 and once again assess the temp movement through the year, but I think I will still end changing with the seasons.
I will be controlling the fans with the ECU, may make it easier to adjust temps to suit set up.
At a given temp the ECU changes the set up, by running the colder stat you may not trigger this change which will effect performance for the worse as I understand.
Post Emerald install I will possibly run a 74 and once again assess the temp movement through the year, but I think I will still end changing with the seasons.
I will be controlling the fans with the ECU, may make it easier to adjust temps to suit set up.
Edited by Johno on Friday 15th February 11:54
@AJP-GRIFF
It was this very book by Des Hammill which made me think of using the 74 deg stat. The explanation in the book to keep everything cool made perfect sense to me.
@Johno
You are right, according to the bible the ECU stops cold start enrichment at 80 deg C. However, I do hope this process is progressively with not too much enrichment left at a coolant temp in the region of 78 C. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Also, a german TVR owner who had his engine partly rebuilt by V8D was told by Rob to use the 74 stat because it is better for the engine.
Anyway, fuel consumption will tell and I may well end up changing according to season like you.
Cheers,
Stefan
It was this very book by Des Hammill which made me think of using the 74 deg stat. The explanation in the book to keep everything cool made perfect sense to me.
@Johno
You are right, according to the bible the ECU stops cold start enrichment at 80 deg C. However, I do hope this process is progressively with not too much enrichment left at a coolant temp in the region of 78 C. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Also, a german TVR owner who had his engine partly rebuilt by V8D was told by Rob to use the 74 stat because it is better for the engine.
Anyway, fuel consumption will tell and I may well end up changing according to season like you.
Cheers,
Stefan
Stefan, the stat wont limit the temp to 74C, you will still get to 80C for the ECU - except in very cold weather which is why some of us with the 74C stat find it easier to fit an 82C stat in the winter.
The overall temps will still be limited by your cooling system.
IMHO much of these 'idioms' are rewritten if you migrate to the later style PEM type stats with full bypass...
Dave
The overall temps will still be limited by your cooling system.
IMHO much of these 'idioms' are rewritten if you migrate to the later style PEM type stats with full bypass...
Dave
Oooops, you're right! Looked it up again, cold start enrichment ends at 70C!
@Spend
Hi Dave, I'm going to try the 74C stat in summer. Must look into the PEM stat thing; it was also mentioned in another thread. Are you still interested in the water/oil heat exchanger? A german oldtimer magazin made a conversion on a TR4 with good results.
Stefan
@Spend
Hi Dave, I'm going to try the 74C stat in summer. Must look into the PEM stat thing; it was also mentioned in another thread. Are you still interested in the water/oil heat exchanger? A german oldtimer magazin made a conversion on a TR4 with good results.
Stefan
stefan1200 said:
Hi Dave, I'm going to try the 74C stat in summer. Must look into the PEM stat thing; it was also mentioned in another thread. Are you still interested in the water/oil heat exchanger? A german oldtimer magazin made a conversion on a TR4 with good results.
Stefan
Hi Stefan,Stefan
I think there are some good infos on the PEM setups on the Lotus pages, let me know if you cant find them. The later RR/LR setup is a bit more complicated with 4/5 branches IMHO... PeterH keeps threatening to spill the beans on them, but I guess he must be busy on other things
Cooled off a bit on the water/oil (sorry pun not intended
)... Its nice to have the warm up, but not sure if cooling is sufficient at full chat unless you have very big coils? This also means a greater pressure drop which concerns me. I can get to temps OK with an oil stat and air/oil cooler so in no rush. Oil Accu is plumbed in & works great!!! - found a cheap one (new) from LasVegas with integral solenoid Basically put the oil/water on teh back-burner while I 
Dave
The AJP Griff said:
Fit a 74o stat.Read any of the good RV8 tuning books and you'll see why.It's recommended to always keep your RV8 below 80o ans a 74o stat will normally run at 77/78ish.
Anyone for block fretting/porous block?
Is this really true about stats causing porous blocks? As I've got my chim in getting some work done at my local specialist do you think I should get a 74 stat put in?Anyone for block fretting/porous block?
I've always kept my 72 deg stat in. Only problem i notice is on a very cold day the car rarely gets over 65deg on the move. May have to consider partially obscuring radiator during the winter months. Was in middle of fitting oil temp sender. I could then switch between water and oil temp with a button on the dash. Really do want to know if the oil is cold too.
Chimjunkie said:
I've always kept my 72 deg stat in. Only problem i notice is on a very cold day the car rarely gets over 65deg on the move. May have to consider partially obscuring radiator during the winter months. Was in middle of fitting oil temp sender. I could then switch between water and oil temp with a button on the dash. Really do want to know if the oil is cold too.
I don't use the TVR temp sender but the original LR-sender (thanks to David Beer!) with a 120 ohms resistor. With this you see temperatures of around 80C (verified with an infrared thermometer)even on cold days. There might be overcooling on very cold days, but part of it seems to be an incorrect indication due to cold airflow on the sender. Would check the actual coolant temp first before obscuring the radiator. Good idea with the temp switch! Would also like to have an oil temp gauge but didn't know where to place one.Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff