Emerald and Fans
Discussion
Anyone know how the fans are wired on a 99 chimera with two fan relays and two fuses. Are the fans controlled by the otter switch on the rad or by the ecu.
Any one know the colour code of the wire for the switching side, (main feeds to fans are Pink) but the fuse box is a nightmare as its sealed and all conectors on the back, dose anyone have a wiring diag on the fuse panel relays to which connectors on the back.
Any one know the colour code of the wire for the switching side, (main feeds to fans are Pink) but the fuse box is a nightmare as its sealed and all conectors on the back, dose anyone have a wiring diag on the fuse panel relays to which connectors on the back.
They are controlled by the otter switch which sits in the bottom of the swirl pot. I just took the connector off the switch and determined which pin was earth. Bin the earth and trace the other wire back to the footwell, you can wire this directly to the Emerald fan control as it will do exactly what it used to do and earth this feed to close the relay in the fusebox.
spend said:
green/pink at the fusebox.
Correct. We took the two thick pink wires out from here and run them up to the new loom and had new micro relays put in and wiring to connect straight to them. I now have one fan coming on at 88 and switching of at 80 the second comes on at 92 and goes of at 84.
The second fan is hardly coming on at the moment due to cooler weather, It does with spirited driving and in traffic.
We thought it much better you have one fan come on fully than two on half speed which we think may reduce life of the fan motor as its not running at its full speed its been designed for. This seems to work well as the one fan at full speed is keeping the engine at temp quite happily.
BB
ETA Emerald will soon have some update so that the fans will carry on running for a set time after ignition is killed.
Edited by Ballistic Banana on Friday 25th April 13:57
Ballistic Banana said:
spend said:
green/pink at the fusebox.
ETA Emerald will soon have some update so that the fans will carry on running for a set time after ignition is killed.Edited by Ballistic Banana on Friday 25th April 13:57
Are the fan relays in the fuse box controlled by the ignition (can't remember last time the fans were on when I stopped the car) so they don't work with ignition off.
Yes, it is totally redundant in our set up.
When speccing the loom I didn't want to have run any more wires to or from the engine bay that I could solve with connections in the footwell.
On my fusebox, I have 2 relays/fuses for the fans. After continuity testing which was which we could then select fan 1 and fan 2 and use the ECU to control when each fan comes on by coolant temp. We removed the feed wire to the fans (output from relay) and took them out of the footwell loom, re loomed them together to behind the dash with a push connector. The ECU in Griff's is now located above the glovebox under the dash, so the top pf the battery is free of all those relays and the ECU.
Gets rid of the ropey unreliable IMHO otter switch and allows you to vary when they both come on.
BB and I are running the same temp settings on the fan control and standard weather idling can be controlled by one fan.
When speccing the loom I didn't want to have run any more wires to or from the engine bay that I could solve with connections in the footwell.
On my fusebox, I have 2 relays/fuses for the fans. After continuity testing which was which we could then select fan 1 and fan 2 and use the ECU to control when each fan comes on by coolant temp. We removed the feed wire to the fans (output from relay) and took them out of the footwell loom, re loomed them together to behind the dash with a push connector. The ECU in Griff's is now located above the glovebox under the dash, so the top pf the battery is free of all those relays and the ECU.
Gets rid of the ropey unreliable IMHO otter switch and allows you to vary when they both come on.
BB and I are running the same temp settings on the fan control and standard weather idling can be controlled by one fan.
The wire from the fusebox that the otter switch grounds is GREEN/WHITE on my car (mid-1999 450) at the point underneath the dash top where the loom heads off into the engine bay. Beware though, it's one of at least three identical wires in the loom at that point, green with a white tracer.
If you're not controlling the fans one at a time, just pull the wire from the otter switch... If you trace it to the footwell, you can just pull it back through from the engine bay and cut it to length. It's already wired into the fusebox so no need to go through the hasstle of taking it off, gives exactly the same result as running a new wire from the fusebox to the ecu! But if you want to control each fan on its own you will still need to get into the fusebox...
thenick said:
If you're not controlling the fans one at a time, just pull the wire from the otter switch... If you trace it to the footwell, you can just pull it back through from the engine bay and cut it to length. It's already wired into the fusebox so no need to go through the hasstle of taking it off, gives exactly the same result as running a new wire from the fusebox to the ecu! But if you want to control each fan on its own you will still need to get into the fusebox...
Why would you want to control the fans independently? If the temp is too high, it's too high. Switch fans on cool it down. KISS 
I would consider it if I still had cats in as they radiate a lot of heat under there, but since I took them out it runs pretty cool anyway. I've never had any cooling problems on the car and with it currently running both together, it works just fine. Temp gets to 90, fans knock it back down to 84, fans turn off. Only happens in traffic and means they only come on for a few seconds as the effect of both fans giving it both barrels gets that heat out quick!
Pupp said:
thenick said:
If you're not controlling the fans one at a time, just pull the wire from the otter switch... If you trace it to the footwell, you can just pull it back through from the engine bay and cut it to length. It's already wired into the fusebox so no need to go through the hasstle of taking it off, gives exactly the same result as running a new wire from the fusebox to the ecu! But if you want to control each fan on its own you will still need to get into the fusebox...
Why would you want to control the fans independently? If the temp is too high, it's too high. Switch fans on cool it down. KISS Ballistic Banana said:
Pupp said:
thenick said:
If you're not controlling the fans one at a time, just pull the wire from the otter switch... If you trace it to the footwell, you can just pull it back through from the engine bay and cut it to length. It's already wired into the fusebox so no need to go through the hasstle of taking it off, gives exactly the same result as running a new wire from the fusebox to the ecu! But if you want to control each fan on its own you will still need to get into the fusebox...
Why would you want to control the fans independently? If the temp is too high, it's too high. Switch fans on cool it down. KISS Spent abit of time yesterday and found teh cabling Otter is Green/pink and goes to Fuse box, in fuse box it goes to one plug and then loops to another two swich bother relays. Looking at the loom to start with it looks like there are 3 green/pink wires but if you strip back the tape one is just a large loom. So fitting the 2 fan systems is easy just cut the loop wire and connect the two ends to the emerald. Then I just removed the wires off the otter switch.
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