help..help..help
Discussion
a.a. got car started at the pub....reckons he just banged relays above battery....got her home 2 weeks ago....the only way i can start her is direct link between battery and fuel pump.....hey presto fires up...changed both relays in footwell but she still wont run....checked all fuses and relays ...dont no what to do next....
:So the switched contacts from the relay are not providing an output to the pump then. Ok who has a 'bible' to hand to identify which relay terminal should have the live input on and which is the switched output. (I'm at work unfortunately)
ps this will not help with the flat battery problem of course unless the fuel pump was left powered up overnight.
ps this will not help with the flat battery problem of course unless the fuel pump was left powered up overnight.
Edited by pringli on Sunday 11th May 11:30
Check the inertia switch hasn't tripped. Remove the 'glove box' flap (two self tappers) and you'll find the switch above, behind and to the right of it. One end has a rubber button with a switch behind it: press this to reset it.
Later cars (1996 on?) have a dash light with an 'i' symbol on it that should light if the switch has tripped. Early cars, I'm not sure.
Later cars (1996 on?) have a dash light with an 'i' symbol on it that should light if the switch has tripped. Early cars, I'm not sure.
i shall have a go at finding the inertia switch but is there any reason for it to have tripped....car not had a knock or bin down large potholes lately.....http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/imgs/8.gif
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/imgs/8.gif
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/imgs/8.gif
No, there's no reason, but there's been a few posts on here over the years where this has happened, so it would appear that it does from time to time.
After rechecking what you've already posted it should be ok, as both wiring diagrams in the 'bible' show it to be between the pump and the relay output and you have continuity in that part of the circuit.
Also according to the diagrams you should have a permanent +12V on terminal 30 of the fuel pump relay. Terminal 86 should be ignition switched +12V; the ECU provides a ground (0V) on terminal 85, and terminals 87 and 87a should go +12V at ignition on for a couple of seconds (operates the pump to pressurise the fuel rail). During cranking and with the engine running, 87 and 87a should stay at +12V.
After rechecking what you've already posted it should be ok, as both wiring diagrams in the 'bible' show it to be between the pump and the relay output and you have continuity in that part of the circuit.
Also according to the diagrams you should have a permanent +12V on terminal 30 of the fuel pump relay. Terminal 86 should be ignition switched +12V; the ECU provides a ground (0V) on terminal 85, and terminals 87 and 87a should go +12V at ignition on for a couple of seconds (operates the pump to pressurise the fuel rail). During cranking and with the engine running, 87 and 87a should stay at +12V.
no probs as long as you disconnect when you reach destination. Pump runs most of time when driving anyway and any excess returns to the tank via pressure regulator. If you don't have a multimeter can you wire up a test lamp to test for 12v+ input as per Ciderandys post
Edited by pringli on Sunday 11th May 12:42
Have a look in the "cubby hole" behind and to the right of the drivers seat behind the door lock mechanism. The fuel pump circuit passes through this area together with the rear light circuits and the connectors are crap to say the least. It might be worth checking these connectors out for rot and general decay as they are known to give grief.
Hope this helps and happy hunting. (barstewerd electrics)
Paul.
Hope this helps and happy hunting. (barstewerd electrics)
Paul.
This *might* be the alternative to the problem I had.
The starter relay in my immobiliser was on it's way out and the Chim often would not start.
I'd turn the key, the fuel pump would kick in but the starter motor would not kick in and
turn the engine over. I found that slapping the underside of the passenger dash with the
key in the start position would do the trick. Soon after I had the immobiliser replaced.
The immobiliser has a relay for the starter and a replay for the fuel pump. So if the engine
turns over but the fuel pump does not prime or pump it might be the immobiliser.
Does slapping the underside of the passenger dash help when starting?
The starter relay in my immobiliser was on it's way out and the Chim often would not start.
I'd turn the key, the fuel pump would kick in but the starter motor would not kick in and
turn the engine over. I found that slapping the underside of the passenger dash with the
key in the start position would do the trick. Soon after I had the immobiliser replaced.
The immobiliser has a relay for the starter and a replay for the fuel pump. So if the engine
turns over but the fuel pump does not prime or pump it might be the immobiliser.
Does slapping the underside of the passenger dash help when starting?
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