Discussion
Been a lurker for a while but finally took the plunge last night a bought a 450 Chim.
On my way into work this morning to give the car its exhaustive (!) shakedown before heading off to France tomorrow night, the MIL (fuel injection) light came on. Car seems to be running fine, idles and revs OK. Light comes back on if I switch the ignition off and then back on. Do you think this is something I should def. get resolved before going to France (not sure if thats possible but I'll try today), or is it not unheard of for the IML light to come on and for it to not be a "serious" fault? One other observation is that the temp guage sits around 65 degrees in normal driving which sounds a bit low? Words of wisdom/warning/comfort gratefully received.
On my way into work this morning to give the car its exhaustive (!) shakedown before heading off to France tomorrow night, the MIL (fuel injection) light came on. Car seems to be running fine, idles and revs OK. Light comes back on if I switch the ignition off and then back on. Do you think this is something I should def. get resolved before going to France (not sure if thats possible but I'll try today), or is it not unheard of for the IML light to come on and for it to not be a "serious" fault? One other observation is that the temp guage sits around 65 degrees in normal driving which sounds a bit low? Words of wisdom/warning/comfort gratefully received.
There are multiple reasons fo the light to come on. The ECU may have dropped into fall back mode, but often it goes un noticed and only the MPG will suffer. Some cars dont have it even wired in, or sometimes it not enabled in the firmware on the ECU chip, so again you would not know something was wrong. First thing to try is an ECU reset, either by disconnecting the battery or unplugging the ECU (Both in the passanger footwell and awkward). If the light comes back on afterwards the fault is permanent, and it needs plugging into a fault code reader to get the failure code. A Range Rover dealer can do it from the modern diagnostics, or you can get a hand held reader. (I have one in Newbury if needs be.)
Heres the various codes, although I dont think they all bring the ECU light on.
02 ECU Supply has been disconnected
Normal code to get after ECU has been reset. May indicate supply problems if ECU has not been reset recently. Code will be cleared if the ignition is turned on for 30 seconds or so
03 Data corrupted. Corrupted data in ECU. Reset ECU and test drive again.
12 Airflow meter out of range Possible faulty airflow meter or connection/wiring fault.
14 Coolant thermistor out of range. Possible faulty coolant thermistor or connection/wiring fault.
15 Fuel thermistor out of range. Possible faulty coolant thermistor or connection/wiring fault.
17 Throttle pot out of range. Possible faulty throttle potentiometer / incorrect setting or connection/wiring fault.
18 Throttle pot output too high with low airflow. Major air leak between airflow meter and intake plenum. Possible faulty airflow meter or throttle potentiometer or wiring/connections to either.
19 Throttle sensor output too low with high airflow. Possible faulty airflow meter or throttle potentiometer or wiring/connections to either.
21 Tune resistor out of range Tune resistor has become disconnected / damaged.
23 Low fuel pressure. Possible faulty fuel pump/ blocked filter or faulty fuel pressure regulator. VALID FOR CAT CARS ONLY.
25 Misfire at full load. A misfire has been detected while engine under heavy throttle and during high airflow meter readings. Check coil/plugs/leads/ distributor and ignition module. Code means that lambda sensors have detected a rich condition under load. Also see codes 40 and 50. VALID FOR CAT CARS ONLY.
28 Air leak. Air leak around intake plenum. Check all hoses/ injector seals etc.
29 Checksum error. ECU fault. Try resetting ECU and test driving again. If fault code returns ECU may be faulty. NOTE – any other codes generated should be ignored.
34 Fuelling fault in nearside injector bank. For cylinders 1-3-5-7 Possible injector, lambda sensor fault or wiring / connection fault to either. Blocked injector(s) or air leak at injector /inlet manifold. VALID FOR CAT CARS ONLY.
36 Fuelling fault in offside injector bank. For cylinders 2-4-6-8. Possible injector, lambda sensor fault or wiring / connection fault to either. Blocked injector(s) or air leak at injector /inlet manifold. VALID FOR CAT CARS ONLY.
40 Misfire on nearside bank. Misfire on 1-3-5-7 cylinders only. Nearside lambda sensor has detected a fault (or fault in lambda sensor circuit). VALID FOR CAT CARS ONLY
44 Offside lambda sensor out of range. Possible faulty lambda sensor or wiring/connection fault. See section 5 below for check. If in conjunction with code 45 then suspect lambda heater circuit. VALID FOR CAT CARS ONLY
45 Nearside lambda sensor out of range. Possible faulty lambda sensor or wiring/connection fault. See section 5 below for check. If in conjunction with code 44 then suspect lambda heater circuit. VALID FOR CAT CARS ONLY
48 Stepper motor fully open below 500rpm or fully closed above 750rpm. Possible faulty stepper motor or wiring connections. Stepper motor needs cleaning / is jammed. Incorrectly set idle adjustment screw. Incorrectly set throttle butterfly. Misfire or rough running because of other faults.
50 Misfire on offside bank Misfire on 2-4-6-8 cylinders only. Offside lambda sensor has detected a fault (or fault in lambda sensor circuit). VALID FOR CAT CARS ONLY
58 ECU cannot distinguish between codes 23 and 28. Fault maybe either due to code 23 or 28.
59 Same as 58 or fuel thermistor out of range. Documentation seems to vary here. Code either means same as 58, or faulty fuel thermistor or wiring / connector fault.
68 Road speed sensor too low at medium rpm and high airflow. Possible speed sensor or wiring/ connection fault.
88 Power-up check / purge valve fault. Sometimes shown on power up (CAT and NON-CAT CARS ) or could also indicate purge valve fault with carbon canister system. (CAT CARS ONLY)
Mark
Heres the various codes, although I dont think they all bring the ECU light on.
02 ECU Supply has been disconnected
Normal code to get after ECU has been reset. May indicate supply problems if ECU has not been reset recently. Code will be cleared if the ignition is turned on for 30 seconds or so
03 Data corrupted. Corrupted data in ECU. Reset ECU and test drive again.
12 Airflow meter out of range Possible faulty airflow meter or connection/wiring fault.
14 Coolant thermistor out of range. Possible faulty coolant thermistor or connection/wiring fault.
15 Fuel thermistor out of range. Possible faulty coolant thermistor or connection/wiring fault.
17 Throttle pot out of range. Possible faulty throttle potentiometer / incorrect setting or connection/wiring fault.
18 Throttle pot output too high with low airflow. Major air leak between airflow meter and intake plenum. Possible faulty airflow meter or throttle potentiometer or wiring/connections to either.
19 Throttle sensor output too low with high airflow. Possible faulty airflow meter or throttle potentiometer or wiring/connections to either.
21 Tune resistor out of range Tune resistor has become disconnected / damaged.
23 Low fuel pressure. Possible faulty fuel pump/ blocked filter or faulty fuel pressure regulator. VALID FOR CAT CARS ONLY.
25 Misfire at full load. A misfire has been detected while engine under heavy throttle and during high airflow meter readings. Check coil/plugs/leads/ distributor and ignition module. Code means that lambda sensors have detected a rich condition under load. Also see codes 40 and 50. VALID FOR CAT CARS ONLY.
28 Air leak. Air leak around intake plenum. Check all hoses/ injector seals etc.
29 Checksum error. ECU fault. Try resetting ECU and test driving again. If fault code returns ECU may be faulty. NOTE – any other codes generated should be ignored.
34 Fuelling fault in nearside injector bank. For cylinders 1-3-5-7 Possible injector, lambda sensor fault or wiring / connection fault to either. Blocked injector(s) or air leak at injector /inlet manifold. VALID FOR CAT CARS ONLY.
36 Fuelling fault in offside injector bank. For cylinders 2-4-6-8. Possible injector, lambda sensor fault or wiring / connection fault to either. Blocked injector(s) or air leak at injector /inlet manifold. VALID FOR CAT CARS ONLY.
40 Misfire on nearside bank. Misfire on 1-3-5-7 cylinders only. Nearside lambda sensor has detected a fault (or fault in lambda sensor circuit). VALID FOR CAT CARS ONLY
44 Offside lambda sensor out of range. Possible faulty lambda sensor or wiring/connection fault. See section 5 below for check. If in conjunction with code 45 then suspect lambda heater circuit. VALID FOR CAT CARS ONLY
45 Nearside lambda sensor out of range. Possible faulty lambda sensor or wiring/connection fault. See section 5 below for check. If in conjunction with code 44 then suspect lambda heater circuit. VALID FOR CAT CARS ONLY
48 Stepper motor fully open below 500rpm or fully closed above 750rpm. Possible faulty stepper motor or wiring connections. Stepper motor needs cleaning / is jammed. Incorrectly set idle adjustment screw. Incorrectly set throttle butterfly. Misfire or rough running because of other faults.
50 Misfire on offside bank Misfire on 2-4-6-8 cylinders only. Offside lambda sensor has detected a fault (or fault in lambda sensor circuit). VALID FOR CAT CARS ONLY
58 ECU cannot distinguish between codes 23 and 28. Fault maybe either due to code 23 or 28.
59 Same as 58 or fuel thermistor out of range. Documentation seems to vary here. Code either means same as 58, or faulty fuel thermistor or wiring / connector fault.
68 Road speed sensor too low at medium rpm and high airflow. Possible speed sensor or wiring/ connection fault.
88 Power-up check / purge valve fault. Sometimes shown on power up (CAT and NON-CAT CARS ) or could also indicate purge valve fault with carbon canister system. (CAT CARS ONLY)
Mark
Firstly, welcome to the fold!
I'm afraid i can't help you directly with your problem, but Racing Green are just round the corner from you. If you are worried, pop in to see them.
http://www.racinggreentvr.com/
I'm afraid i can't help you directly with your problem, but Racing Green are just round the corner from you. If you are worried, pop in to see them.
http://www.racinggreentvr.com/
When your happy that the problem is just a glitch the quickest way to get the MiL light to go out is to unplug the ECU, wait 10 seconds and plug back in. This resets the ECU. The ECU is the free floating box in the passenger footwell - picture below. Press the clip down and lift the plug up.
HTH
HTH
Thanks guys, RG have kindly agreed to check the diag code if I whip the car round to them today although they're too busy to actually fix anything if thats whats required.
I didn't want to just reset the ECU and then get halfway across France on Saturday to find I've got a serious problem. Interestingly, RG say they had a car in the other day with its IML light on which was caused by the charcoal canister not venting fast enough after the tank was brimmed in the recent hot weather.
I didn't want to just reset the ECU and then get halfway across France on Saturday to find I've got a serious problem. Interestingly, RG say they had a car in the other day with its IML light on which was caused by the charcoal canister not venting fast enough after the tank was brimmed in the recent hot weather.
Thanks to everyone for their advice, and a special mention to Racing Green who agreed to have a look at the diagnostics at very short notice. Very customer focussed operation, I'll be back! 
In case this comes in useful, it turns out the IML light was triggered by an out of range sensor caused by me brimming the tank when I collected the car - the carbon can can't process the fumes fast enough, triggering the error code. ECU reset and we're away
. Racing Green had another car in with the same problem two weeks previously.
In case this comes in useful, it turns out the IML light was triggered by an out of range sensor caused by me brimming the tank when I collected the car - the carbon can can't process the fumes fast enough, triggering the error code. ECU reset and we're away
. Racing Green had another car in with the same problem two weeks previously.vee5 said:
Thanks to everyone for their advice, and a special mention to Racing Green who agreed to have a look at the diagnostics at very short notice. Very customer focussed operation, I'll be back!
In case this comes in useful, it turns out the IML light was triggered by an out of range sensor caused by me brimming the tank when I collected the car - the carbon can can't process the fumes fast enough, triggering the error code. ECU reset and we're away . Racing Green had another car in with the same problem two weeks previously.
Pleased to hear you are sorted, and thanks for the info - i hadn't heard of that problme before.In case this comes in useful, it turns out the IML light was triggered by an out of range sensor caused by me brimming the tank when I collected the car - the carbon can can't process the fumes fast enough, triggering the error code. ECU reset and we're away
. Racing Green had another car in with the same problem two weeks previously.As you are local, keep an eye open on the Thames Valley and Surrey Forum. There is always lots going on. http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/forum.asp?h=0&a...
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