Gearbox removal & clutch
Discussion
Need a bit of advice on gearbox removal please.
Chim 400 1998
I need to remove the gearbox to replace the clutch as the arm and fingers are worn.
I have removed exhaust, propshaft, stater motor and disconnected the gearchange linkage from above.
Should I split the gearbox from the bellhousing & drop the gearbox first, or drop them as a combined unit?
I have disconnected the gear lever linkage from the top of the gearbox, do I need to remove any thing else on the linkage, maybe something on the rose joint at the front?
Any advice on the best place to get the new clutch from? I don't need an uprated one, will a range rover one fit the bill?
Thanks Andy
Chim 400 1998
I need to remove the gearbox to replace the clutch as the arm and fingers are worn.
I have removed exhaust, propshaft, stater motor and disconnected the gearchange linkage from above.
Should I split the gearbox from the bellhousing & drop the gearbox first, or drop them as a combined unit?
I have disconnected the gear lever linkage from the top of the gearbox, do I need to remove any thing else on the linkage, maybe something on the rose joint at the front?
Any advice on the best place to get the new clutch from? I don't need an uprated one, will a range rover one fit the bill?
Thanks Andy
I found it easier to split them as it's difficult to access the front upper bolts in the bell housing with the gearbox still attached.
With regard to the linkage I think (from memory) the only issue I had was trying to get it seperated from the box - i.e. due to the small nylon bush which passes through the linkage/box interface........if you know what I mean - inside the car towards the rear.
Clutch - I rang round a few places but ended up putting one from TVR (HHC) in.........couldn't be bothered with the will it be the same/won't it.......I think a rangie one will work on a 4.0.
Remember to cover the rear output shaft hole after you've removed the propshaft, to stop you getting a face full of oil when you tilt the box to remove it.......I found this out the hard way as I bench pressed the box out (small jack incident).........
Owt else, just ask - I'll try to help
With regard to the linkage I think (from memory) the only issue I had was trying to get it seperated from the box - i.e. due to the small nylon bush which passes through the linkage/box interface........if you know what I mean - inside the car towards the rear.
Clutch - I rang round a few places but ended up putting one from TVR (HHC) in.........couldn't be bothered with the will it be the same/won't it.......I think a rangie one will work on a 4.0.
Remember to cover the rear output shaft hole after you've removed the propshaft, to stop you getting a face full of oil when you tilt the box to remove it.......I found this out the hard way as I bench pressed the box out (small jack incident).........
Owt else, just ask - I'll try to help
I can only speak from pre serp gearbox but Range Rover clutch won't fit it is 10.5 inch diameter and wrong spline on friction plate.
You need 9.5 inch diameter clutch and associated bits specifically for 2wd V8 application.
I don't know for sure but am guessing that pre serp and serp clutch will be the same as I've been looking for a new clutch and haven't found any references to different gearboxes.
Rimmer brothers are reasonably priced about £150 I think for 3 part clutch.
V8 Developments want £250 plus Vat which I thought was a bit steep.
Chris
You need 9.5 inch diameter clutch and associated bits specifically for 2wd V8 application.
I don't know for sure but am guessing that pre serp and serp clutch will be the same as I've been looking for a new clutch and haven't found any references to different gearboxes.
Rimmer brothers are reasonably priced about £150 I think for 3 part clutch.
V8 Developments want £250 plus Vat which I thought was a bit steep.
Chris
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